Starts then stalls?

MYSTICSVT

Founding Member
May 16, 2001
349
0
16
Meridian, Idaho
My LX is starting to do this more and more frequently. And it'll do it whether it's hot or cold. It'll start right up and then immediately stall. After that, it starts right back up and idles fine. Is this an indication that my stock 16 year old fuel pump is going out the window? The car runs perfect otherwise.
 
To run with your FP idea: If you cycle the key a couple times before starting for the first time, does it stay running?

Since it has enough pressure to start initially, the FP would not be where I looked first.

How do you have your idle set? Do you need the IAC to maintain a warm, no-load idle? The IAC might be giving you some issues. I know cold starts (cold ambient temps) are not what we are dealing with in Glendale this time of year, but the IAC does boost the start-up idle nonetheless (even in 115* temps).

My random thoughts. Good luck.
 
I had the same problem. Put a new fuel pump in 255 and did the same thing still.

Clean the tps and it should take care of it. That is what my problem was. Just shoot some carb cleaner in it to clean the carbon out.
 
I agree. Clean throttle body and change oil. Believe it or not...every time I notice that starting to happen with my car I change the oil...and it never does it again until the oil gets dirty. I can't say why that is...but it worked for my 5.0 it can work for yours. (I assume you have a good cap and rotor, I just clean the contacts on the inside of the cap and it lasts for a good while longer without stalling)

-oil
-cap-
-clean throttle body
 
HISSIN50 said:
To run with your FP idea: If you cycle the key a couple times before starting for the first time, does it stay running?

How do you have your idle set? Do you need the IAC to maintain a warm, no-load idle?

It doesn't do it consistently enough for me to try that. And it'll only do it once. It'll start then die. Then the next turn of the key starts it and it idles fine. The car only has 60K original miles, and I doubt anyone has ever moved the idle from the stock setting.
 
garystocker said:
I agree. Clean throttle body and change oil. Believe it or not...every time I notice that starting to happen with my car I change the oil...and it never does it again until the oil gets dirty. I can't say why that is...but it worked for my 5.0 it can work for yours. (I assume you have a good cap and rotor, I just clean the contacts on the inside of the cap and it lasts for a good while longer without stalling)

-oil
-cap-
-clean throttle body


New cap and rotor. Oil cleanliness seams to have no bearing on the problem. Does it when the oil has 10 miles on it to 3000 miles.
 
MYSTICSVT said:
Can I clean the inside of the throttle body with carb clean? I thought I heard once that they have a coating that prohibits that. :shrug:
I would use Throttle body cleaner - like you said, you dont want to remove the teflon coating present in some TB's.

While 5.0's are not as finicky as some cars with regard to to stalling from dirty TB's, that thing sounds like it might be filthy. The IAC is right there too, if one wants to clean that.

Like I said originally, I dont like the FP as the cause here. It starts immediately initially and thereafter - good pressure. It seems like an engine management hicup or dirty actuator of some sort.

Here is a write up with info for cleaning the IAC and TB.


Good luck.
 
HISSIN50 said:
I would use Throttle body cleaner - like you said, you dont want to remove the teflon coating present in some TB's.

While 5.0's are not as finicky as some cars with regard to to stalling from dirty TB's, that thing sounds like it might be filthy. The IAC is right there too, if one wants to clean that.

Like I said originally, I dont like the FP as the cause here. It starts immediately initially and thereafter - good pressure. It seems like an engine management hicup or dirty actuator of some sort.

Here is a write up with info for cleaning the IAC and TB.


Good luck.


Thank's for the link. :hail2: