Steeda 10 rib system

Q

QUICK06

New Member

Sep 30, 2009

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Texas

Oct 1, 2009

#1

• Oct 1, 2009

• #1

I am having a Steeda 10 rib belt system installed on my Whipple supercharged 2006 GT. Has anyone who has already installed the system had any tuning issues?

 

klaw

Member

Oct 11, 2007

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Calgary, Alberta, Canada

Oct 1, 2009

#2

• Oct 1, 2009

• #2

QUICK06 said:

I am having a Steeda 10 rib belt system installed on my Whipple supercharged 2006 GT. Has anyone who has already installed the system had any tuning issues?

Click to expand...

I have the Steeda 10-rib with the 16psi boost pulley. My car isn't the easiest to tune but that's more related to the cams than the blower drive. Are you having issues? What's your setup?

A reasonably complete list of my mods is at:

klaw's Garage :: BLWNPNY

 

Q

QUICK06

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Sep 30, 2009

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Oct 1, 2009

#3

• Oct 1, 2009

• #3

The only problem I have had so far was getting enough air to the engine. I have the 17-19 pound kit. We discovered that we had to send the air inlet to Whipple to have it ported and I bought the 160mm monoblade throttle body. I am just wondering if there are any other obstacles that might pop up? I have a built motor with Kooks headers, Magnaflow exhaust, Fore fuel rails, 60 lb. injectors.

 

Q

QUICK06

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Sep 30, 2009

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Oct 1, 2009

#4

• Oct 1, 2009

• #4

I forgot to mention I have BBR Stage II heads and Comp Stage II blower grind cams.

 

klaw

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Oct 11, 2007

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Calgary, Alberta, Canada

Oct 1, 2009

#5

• Oct 1, 2009

• #5

You're probably going to have throttle tip-in issues. Essentially, the tune will likely have trouble matching the air/fuel at low RPM and the engine will have a tendency to stumble. Who is doing your tune? These builds take quite a bit of work to nail down street driveability. You'll probably want to get a boost bypass controller from Whipple with a very light spring. Your idle vacuum will be lower than stock because of your cams. On throttle tip-in, the standard Whipple boost bypass controller will snap shut and the engine (and ECU) will be seeing very high VE at really low RPM. A light spring will help you build RPM (and vacuum) at low throttle positions before the bypass closes.

Hope that makes sense.

 

Q

QUICK06

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Sep 30, 2009

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Oct 1, 2009

#6

• Oct 1, 2009

• #6

Thank you for your tips. We received the parts back from Whipple today and are putting them back on the car. We should have it on the dyno tomorrow. After that i will hopefully begin testing out the everyday driveability.

I looked over the list of things you have done. Impressive. Our cars are very similar.

 

Q

QUICK06

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Oct 2, 2009

#7

• Oct 2, 2009

• #7

Here is the latest update. We were not able to put it on the dyno today. We got the car put back together and started it up and it was running very lean on the passenger side of the motor. We switched the o2 sensors, looked for vacuum leaks but have found nothing yet. We will take another look at it tomorrow.

 

klaw

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Oct 11, 2007

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Calgary, Alberta, Canada

Oct 2, 2009

#8

• Oct 2, 2009

• #8

I went to aftermarket fuel rails and braided lines to reduce the chance of any restriction due to the crossover to the passenger side.

 

Q

QUICK06

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Sep 30, 2009

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Oct 2, 2009

#9

• Oct 2, 2009

• #9

I will have them check into that tomorrow. I have new aftermarket fuel rails and we ran the crossover behind the blower. I did not use a braided line. Maybe there is a restriction in the line. Thank you for idea. I appreciate it.

 

klaw

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Oct 11, 2007

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Calgary, Alberta, Canada

Oct 3, 2009

#10

• Oct 3, 2009

• #10

I ran a braided line from the hardline at the frame rail to a high flow tee (internally contoured) then braided lines to each rail.

Fitting:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/NOS-...ItemQQimsxZ20090928?IMSfp=TL090928151006r7224

 

Q

QUICK06

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Sep 30, 2009

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Texas

Oct 9, 2009

#11

• Oct 9, 2009

• #11

Here is the latest update. We have the problem with the passenger side of the motor running lean worked out. We are still working on the tune. The idle is okay but at WOT there is some real inconsistency.