Steeda Solid Upper Control Arm

walter

Founding Member

Aug 13, 1998

1,054

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46

Houston TX

Apr 10, 2009

#1

• Apr 10, 2009

• #1

I just noticed Steeda has a new part # 555-4096 It is a non adjustable UCA for lowered vehicles. I wonder if anyone has this part in their cars, and just how lowered does the car need to be.

I would like to get a one piece driveshaft for my car but I'm not comfortable with the idea of getting an adjustable piece but at the same time I don't want to throw the pinion angle off too much that the DS will give me issues. Should I go with this part or should I stick to the original plan of getting a J&M UCA that matches my J&M LCA's with its spherical bushings?

:SNSign:

 

TBrad

New Member

Feb 15, 2009

91

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Dallas, Texas

Apr 10, 2009

#2

• Apr 10, 2009

• #2

I have this UCA...

"Steeda's 555-4097 upper 3rd link can be used on stock ride height and lowered applications."

I have a 1.5" drop on the rear.
Works great.
I originally bought it to get rid of the wheel hop problem I was having.

I see now they make one specifically for lowered suspension.

"Steeda's non-adjustable upper third link part number 555-4096 is intended for use on lowered vehicles only."

 

walter

Founding Member

Aug 13, 1998

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46

Houston TX

Apr 10, 2009

#3

• Apr 10, 2009

• #3

Makes me wonder if the 97 model number app that works both on the stock and lowered application is for mild drops like the Roush, or Steeda Ultralite which is less then 1.5 in and the 96 is for drops over that?

Either way I'd like to have an UCA in that won't throw a one piece driveshaft for a loop by messing up the pinion angle excessively.

 

NastyStang113

New Member

Sep 12, 2008

1,567

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Florida

Apr 10, 2009

#4

• Apr 10, 2009

• #4

So, why are you against getting an adjustable one? I mean you've got a watts link so apparently you want a lot out of your suspension. I see no reason why you wouldn't want an adjustable UCA unless you've got adjustable LCAs which from what I recall you don't, right? I just don't see how a one sized fits all non adjustable UCA is good for pinon angle.

 

O

o0Dan0o

Founding Member

Feb 8, 2001

485

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0

Apr 11, 2009

#5

• Apr 11, 2009

• #5

Walter, you need to get a torque arm from Griggs. Expensive, but from everything I've heard it's night and day from the midget of a UCA we have on our cars. Maximum Motorsports is supposedly working on one, but after 4 years who knows when it will really come out...
Dan

 

walter

Founding Member

Aug 13, 1998

1,054

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46

Houston TX

Apr 11, 2009

#6

• Apr 11, 2009

• #6

NastyStang113 said:

So, why are you against getting an adjustable one? I mean you've got a watts link so apparently you want a lot out of your suspension. I see no reason why you wouldn't want an adjustable UCA unless you've got adjustable LCAs which from what I recall you don't, right? I just don't see how a one sized fits all non adjustable UCA is good for pinon angle.

Click to expand...

Because unfortunately a non adjustable watts link doesn't yet exist for our cars (I don't like the Saleen's design and the price tag on it). After owning a drift spec 240sx with everything and anything adjustable on it the less adjustability I can go with the better it is especially in a car like the mustang that has enough rattles and play built in from the factory.

 

NastyStang113

New Member

Sep 12, 2008

1,567

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Florida

Apr 11, 2009

#7

• Apr 11, 2009

• #7

walter said:

Because unfortunately a non adjustable watts link doesn't yet exist for our cars (I don't like the Saleen's design and the price tag on it). After owning a drift spec 240sx with everything and anything adjustable on it the less adjustability I can go with the better it is especially in a car like the mustang that has enough rattles and play built in from the factory.

Click to expand...

I think you are just making excuses for yourself. I think deep down you know that an adjustable UCA is the right part for you and your car. There is no reason why an adjustable UCA with the same bushings would make more noise than a solid UCA with the same bushings.

 

walter

Founding Member

Aug 13, 1998

1,054

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46

Houston TX

Apr 11, 2009

#8

• Apr 11, 2009

• #8

NastyStang113 said:

I think you are just making excuses for yourself. I think deep down you know that an adjustable UCA is the right part for you and your car. There is no reason why an adjustable UCA with the same bushings would make more noise than a solid UCA with the same bushings.

Click to expand...

I think im with Dan on. This one ill start with a solid piece and save up for the griggs arm I'm done with sloppy I want this done right.

 

O

o0Dan0o

Founding Member

Feb 8, 2001

485

1

0

Apr 12, 2009

#9

• Apr 12, 2009

• #9

Keep in mind that the griggs torque arm costs about $800 and has to be welded in, so plan on $1k installed. For those of you wondering why that would be worth it, the torque arm will completely (utterly and forever) remove your wheel hop issues, while increasing traction (both forward and lateral).
Dan

 

walter

Founding Member

Aug 13, 1998

1,054

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46

Houston TX

Apr 12, 2009

#10

• Apr 12, 2009

• #10

Yeah I know but once el carrito is paid off I should be able to get one