Steeda Tri-ax problems

I ran into a similar problem on my TR-3650 a few months ago with the Tri-Ax, only mine was hard to get into third. I thought it was the transmission and I was just about to take it to the dealer to have it repaired. I removed the Tri-Ax and put the stock shifter back on and couldn't believe how smoothly it shifted. Then, I knew it wasn't the tranny. I did the following:

1. Put white lithium grease in the black plastic "cup" before snapping it back on the ball of the shifter.
2. Aligned the body of the Tri-Ax with the tranny better and made double sure all the bolts holding it down weren't going to work their way loose (noticed that two were just slightly loose when I removed the Tri-Ax).
3. Made sure the bolts holding the shifter handle to the shifter itself were super tight, as I noticed the bottom one had worked itself somewhat loose when I removed it.

Since then, I've had no issues.

ya i didnt have a problem with getting it in gear but more of a problem with keeping it in one pice! i snaped the ball socket right off the handel an everything were still mounted in place but would move all over then i took out the shifter an saw it had snaped off in the trany! so out came the tri-ax an in whent the B&M Ripper Shifter. an never looked back. iv also has problems with the barings in steedas caster camber plates an there control arms.

Hmmm, no problems here with my Tri-Ax/install. Did you properly adjust the stop bolts on it?

Further:
http://www.steeda.com/instructions/Tri-AxT5.htm

COBRA90GT said:

Hmmm, no problems here with my Tri-Ax/install. Did you properly adjust the stop bolts on it?

Further:
http://www.steeda.com/instructions/Tri-AxT5.htm

Click to expand...

2001 Cobras with a Tremic 3650 trans have internal stops. You don't need to use the ones on the shifter. In fact, it's recommended that you don't use them.

I sheet canned my Steeda and went MGW, no more NOTCHY trans...............