steel cowl vent covers for a 65.

65fastbackresto

Active Member

Apr 13, 2007

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AR

Mar 15, 2012

#1

• Mar 15, 2012

• #1

I know Rusty did this while back in one of his threads.

I am wanting to smooth the cowl area by covering it with steel plates and bodyworking them in. I`m curious what I`m getting into. A buddy has a cnc machine, we are testing today to see what thickness of steel (testing 10 gauge to 14 gauge today) will give the least skim coat of filler after they are laid in the cowl vent holes. After we determine the correct thickness I`ll have to buy a whole sheet to get my 6 little peices of cowl vent cover out of. I`ll have a bunch of steel and can sell these things pretty cheap if anyone wants them.

If anyone knows of potential issues caused by covering these holes let me know, I just want it to look good but not cause any other issues.

 

bartl

Active Member

Feb 4, 2001

218

8

29

West Rutland, Vermont

Mar 15, 2012

#2

• Mar 15, 2012

• #2

Biggest thing I can think of is no more fresh air source for the vents and heater. Also, opening a window in the car just a bit would create a huge negative pressure situation and suck gases through any holes present. Now if there was a way to open up the cowl sides and attach a bracket that would hold a removable and replaceable filter element, accessible through the rear splash shields, that would be cool.

 

iskwezm

10 Year Member

May 24, 2005

4,159

20

79

Rowland Heights,California

Mar 16, 2012

#3

• Mar 16, 2012

• #3

I welded mine up about 6 years ago and have not noticed any negative air pressure or whaterver it is.The cowel is not airtight, so the heater would still work(mine is removed).I just cut up a old door from a 66' and used that metal

 

T

tweet66

Founding Member

May 19, 2001

589

0

17

Pennsauken, NJ

Mar 16, 2012

#4

• Mar 16, 2012

• #4

I did this in my 66 coupe about 15 yrs ago. I ran a 4" flexible tube out the firewall, under the front wheel well, just above the front tire. This is a low pressure area that gives me enough air to run the heater. Not quite as efficient as the cowl, but Jersey gets a little too cold to eliminate the heater....

 

mtaqua

Member

Oct 7, 2006

345

4

19

Mar 16, 2012

#5

• Mar 16, 2012

• #5

did it, don't notice negative p when I open the window. I also welded the cowl openings under the dash close (drilled a couple small hole to drain moisture). I did get rid of the heater too.

 

65fastbackresto

Active Member

Apr 13, 2007

1,229

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Mar 16, 2012

#6

• Mar 16, 2012

• #6

Good feedback, thanks guys

Iskwerm, that looks good, thanks for the tip about using old panels, I have alot of test panels I`ve scrapped together over the last 5 years. I noticed you said you welded yours up? I planned on laying the pieces in using panal to panel 2k adhesive, and bondo over the top, this sound right?

 

rusty428cj

10 Year Member

Sep 29, 2007

943

265

104

Port Richey Fl

Mar 16, 2012

#7

• Mar 16, 2012

• #7

65fastbackresto said:

Good feedback, thanks guys

Iskwerm, that looks good, thanks for the tip about using old panels, I have alot of test panels I`ve scrapped together over the last 5 years. I noticed you said you welded yours up? I planned on laying the pieces in using panal to panel 2k adhesive, and bondo over the top, this sound right?

Click to expand...

I use panel adhesive

 

mtaqua

Member

Oct 7, 2006

345

4

19

Mar 16, 2012

#8

• Mar 16, 2012

• #8

I welded, but probably would do adhesive if I did it again.