steering rack replacement

its a fun job let me tell u.... i used the stock replacement they work ok for me...

I used a stock replacement from advance autoparts when I did my 93 and my 88. It wasn't all that expensive but it can be a pain. Somehow I pulled the shaft out of the steering column while trying to get the rack uncoupled from the steering shaft. Make a not or take a picture of the routing of the power steering hoses to make it easier to route things when you reinstall.

The inner tie rod ends on the 94-95 rack are longer because of the wider track of the car.

The two inner tie rod ends are usually what wears out, and at $45 each, it's better to get a replacement rack assembly since they are part of the package. The rack is about $100 + a $40 refundable core charge, which you get back when you return the old rack. Be sure to ask for the GT or high performance rack, it has fewer turns lock to lock than the standard rack.

The flex coupling for the steering shaft needs to be disconnected before you can get the rack out. You should disassemble the coupling by removing the 2 bolts that hold it together. The lower part of the coupling will then come out with the rack, and can easily be removed.

The tie rod ends can be removed with a tool that looks like a giant "pickle fork", it's less than $8, or some stores will rent/loan one. Remove the cotter pin & nut on the tie end, stick the tool between the rod end and the arm it connects and hammer away. The bigger the hammer, the easier it comes apart.

Remove the two bolts that bolt the rack assembly to the frame and then pull the rack down. Get a catch pan to dump the fluid in when you disconnect the hydraulic lines. I replaced the rack mount bushings with some Energy Suspension urethane ones. When you re-install the rack assembly, put the rear bushings in the rack assembly and lift it into place. Then install the front bushings & washers and tighten down the nuts. Doing it this way makes room for the hydraulic lines without having them bind against the frame.

To change the tie rod ends, do them one at a time. Loosen the jam nut 1/4 turn, then unscrew the tie rod end from the rack. Turn the jam nut back 1/4 turn to return it to its original position. With the tie rod end removed, use a machinist square to measure the distance between the end of the threaded rod and the jam nut. Sit the bottom of the square against the end of the threaded rod, and the end of the blade of the square against the jam nut. Duplicate the measurement on the new rack and then install the tie rod end and tighten the jam nut. Then do the other side: the front end will need aligning, but the toe in will be close enough to the setting of the original rack to drive.

Buy several extra quarts of fluid to run through the system to flush it when you change the rack. The car needs to be up on jackstands for the next step. Fill the pump up, start the car, and turn the wheels lock to lock to bleed the air out. Then stop the engine, disconnect the low pressure hose (the one that is secured with a hose clamp) and drain the pump. Re-connect, refill and do it several more times or until the fluid looks clear and not burnt or black.

Power steering pressure lines:
Each hose uses an O ring on each end to seal them. The hoses will swivel when they are installed and tightened into place. That is why there are O rings on the fittings. The O ring is the part that actually makes the pressure seal. If you slide the nut all the way back as far as it will go, you will see the O ring and the groove cut into the center section of the fitting.



Sometimes you will get some white Teflon rings with the pump or rack. The rings go on the threaded part of the fitting to reduce or prevent small leaks. They are not meant to seal the pressure part of the line or substitute for the rubber O ring. Heat the white Teflon seals in hot water and they will be easier to install. You can install the fittings without them and not have any leaks if the O rings seal good.

Another awesome writeup by Jrichker



I'm doing mine soon

SN95 rack = more steering effort and better steering feel

you'll need some way to adapt the SN95 rack to the Fox steering column (MM hybrid steering shaft or adapt the two somehow); and fox inner & outer tie rods. I believe the lines should be the same.

Anybody have any info about using a later model rack in a 94-95 GT? Are they interchangeable? I have gone through an A1-Cardone rebuilt rack in about two years, (only 8000 miles) and I'm considering getting a later model from a salvage yard.

the prob with the sn 95 rack is the different coupler for the steering shaft. you can get one from MM for like $180. I read where one guy got the sn 95 coupler with the rack from a salvage yard an used it with his fox coupler to make the hybrd shaft.

I used an AGR quick ratio rack, it wasn't cheap, but i love it, i think like $250-$275 and it came with the inners on it.
Keep in mind, it's not for everyone.
My steering is ridiculously easy and extremely fast, the first time you turn it, it may seem like the steering wheel isn't even connected to anything, and it turns so fast with minimal movement, it takes a few days to get used to. Once you do, everything else sucks.
I wouldn't have it any other way at this point.

Cheap chain store reman racks generally don't last long, that's why i went all out. I didn't know the steering effort was going to be so minimal, it was kinda lucky, at least for me.

2000xp8 said:

I used an AGR quick ratio rack, it wasn't cheap, but i love it, i think like $250-$275 and it came with the inners on it.
Keep in mind, it's not for everyone.
My steering is ridiculously easy and extremely fast, the first time you turn it, it may seem like the steering wheel isn't even connected to anything, and it turns so fast with minimal movement, it takes a few days to get used to. Once you do, everything else sucks.
I wouldn't have it any other way at this point.

Cheap chain store reman racks generally don't last long, that's why i went all out. I didn't know the steering effort was going to be so minimal, it was kinda lucky, at least for me.

Click to expand...

I was thinking about the quick ratio rack too, I guess it wouldn't be equivalent to a GT rack, since the gt is quicker than the 4 cyl racks?

Btw I see you're in NJ, and have a big daddy link, what town are u in?