Steering tightening

geostang351 · Dec 5, 2006

I have the original steering box in my 68 coupe and have read several times from people that there is some adjustment to these boxes that can be done to help remove some steering wheel slop (mine moves side to side 3 inches or so without moving the tires). Does someone have a diagram or picture where the adjustment screw is located (if there is one). I'm not looking to upgrade to R&P yet or put in a new steering box $$$. Any help is appreciated. :SNSign:

thehueypilot · Dec 5, 2006

Looking down from the top you will see a threaded stud sticking out of the top cover of the steering box with a lock nut on it. Loosen the lock nut and turn the threaded stud in about 1/8 of a turn. If you screw it in too far your steering could lock up because you are taking the slack out of a worn spot on your worm gear which is usally the straight ahead position. Most likely the major part of the slop is in the rest of the system.

geostang351 · Dec 5, 2006

Thanks. When you refer to the rest of the system, where specifically are you refering to? Pitman and idle arms? Control valve? All the above?

yeloxr7 · Dec 5, 2006

All that plus the tie rod ends.

geostang351 · Dec 5, 2006

The tie rods are realtively new at about 1,000 miles as is the rest of the suspension. None of the steering was touched (expect outer tie rods)

thehueypilot · Dec 5, 2006

The best place to start is to have someone turn the steering wheel back and forth (within the slack only) and look at each component while it is moving back and forth to see where most of the play is coming from.

dbfarr · Dec 5, 2006

If you have a factory tilt column a substantial amount of play can develop there. The u-joints inside go to crap sometimes, most likely from a previous impact. I don't really have any idea how to eliminate this problem; when mine went silly, I cashed it in on EBAY. Even in fair condition, they go for a mint

The other big culprit is the control valve.

If you haven't rebuilt your c/v, consider either, a REPUTABLE rebuilder, or buying a new one.

If you want a permanent solution, rebuild everything that isn't recently new; I would not start with the box. From what I can gather, in your case, that would mean idler arm, C\V, pump, lines, and the inner tie rods. Use moog parts, Rockauto is real cheap there. If you still have play at that point, replace the box. Borgeson seems to be a reputable and reasonable choice.

Unfortunately, piecemealing your steering situation is going to likely give you piecemeal results. So consider your investment. My solution was more radical, do what you think is appropriate.

Good luck

geostang351 · Dec 5, 2006

I would rather not replace the box as it is so involved to do. I guess I should buy a new C/V and idler/pitman arms and go from there. Thanks for the input DB

68converted · Dec 5, 2006

Replacing the box is cake. I took mine out in about 10 minutes. Very easy to do actually.

dbfarr · Dec 5, 2006

Replacing the box is cake. I took mine out in about 10 minutes. Very easy to do actually.

It can be, unless you have >=351 or long tube headers. It used to take me 20 minutes of twisting and turning to get that bastard in. Luckily, that was before the wife's pregnancy, I used to be in good shape.

geostang351 · Dec 6, 2006

68converted said:
Replacing the box is cake. I took mine out in about 10 minutes. Very easy to do actually.

THis is my problem. I have a 351W with Hedman long tubes

65ShelbyClone · Dec 6, 2006

At least you don't have a '67 with the one-piece shaft. Then you'd have to take the steeing wheel off too and slide the whole mess out from under the car. The '68s just have a rag joint and the box can be pulled out by itself.

geostang351 · Dec 6, 2006

Oh Nice! Thanks

BornInAFord · Dec 6, 2006

stangersite has a good how-to on adjusting the box. Do it incorrectly and you'll have a short lived box. Do it correctly and you'll be very happy. Since you have a 68 box, it is relatively easy to R&R.
Daniel

dbfarr · Dec 6, 2006

At least you don't have a '67 with the one-piece shaft. Then you'd have to take the steeing wheel off too and slide the whole mess out from under the car.

Woohoo, spear o' death. Turns a typical rear ending into massive internal hemmoraging, mmm squished internal organs. Luckily, in 1968 federal regulations mandated a collapsable steering column, among other things. 'Guess Nader did a few good things...

If I had a 67', the first thing I'd do is replace the column, brake pedal, box, and add a rag joint. Life's too short to die with a steering shaft through your sternum.

BTW: stangersite offers c/v rebuilding. From what I've heard, he's pretty reputable.

http://www.stangerssite.com/controlvalverebuilds.html

65ShelbyClone · Dec 6, 2006

dbfarr said:
Woohoo, spear o' death. Turns a typical rear ending into massive internal hemmoraging, mmm squished internal organs.http://www.stangerssite.com/controlvalverebuilds.html

Yeah, but that's after the upper body collapses the outer ring of the wheel.

Turns "why is my horn stuck on?" to "why am I stuck on the horn."

enferno · Dec 6, 2006

on my coupe, my steering was really sloppy as well. before i adjusted the steering box, i had someone wiggle the wheel within the slop zone and looked under the hood. sure enough, the arm that goes from the steering box to the control arm was moving just slightly enough, but not moving the control arm. i just replaced the rubber that goes between there, tightened the nut, and bingo, perfect.

Steering tightening

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