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  • 1965 - 1973 Classic Mustangs -General/Talk-
  • Classic Mustang Specific Tech

Steering Wheel

  • Thread starter Thread starter suki243
  • Start date Start date Feb 11, 2007
S

suki243

Member
Dec 19, 2006
662
0
19
Southern California
Feb 11, 2007
#1
  • Feb 11, 2007
  • #1
Ok, I just got my mustang restoration handbook today and I jumped right into the wiring. I started by removing the horn and instrument cluster. I tried to work around the steering wheel but it was getting annoying. Now I tried to take off the steering wheel but I can't seem to get it to come off. Here is a pic. I can't turn the retension nut, it's like stuck, I'm using plyers.
View attachment 404197
View attachment 404199
Also, is the steering wheel broken?
View attachment 404201
View attachment 404203
 

dennis112

15 Year Member
May 15, 2005
1,561
36
79
Amish Wonderland of Central PA.
Feb 11, 2007
#2
  • Feb 11, 2007
  • #2
I use a 15/16" socket and ratchet on an extension to remove that nut. It will be fairly tight.

Be aware that you will probably need a steering wheel puller in order to remove the wheel. The steering wheel is a "press fit" on the steering shaft. The puller should include 2 long bolts that will thread into the 2 holes found on either side of the nut. Sometimes you can jar the wheel loose by banging the spokes from the rear with your palms, alternating which spoke is banged.

Before you remove the steering wheel though, be sure to make a mark on its hub next to the steering shaft. It should be marked next to the little straight line on the shaft, which is aimed at the 10 o'clock position on the 3rd picture.
 
J

justford

Founding Member
Feb 15, 2001
66
0
7
Grayson KY
Feb 12, 2007
#3
  • Feb 12, 2007
  • #3
Yes the wheel needs replaced.
 

Rusty67

20+ Year Stangneter
Dec 3, 2002
3,749
37
109
LA, CA
Feb 12, 2007
#4
  • Feb 12, 2007
  • #4
After you get the nut almost all the way off, STOP. If you yank the wheel at the right angle and with a good amount of force, the wheel should pop loose and catch on the nut. If you can't get it that way, then try using a steering wheel puller. You are going to need a socket, even with Superman+GI-Joe+Kung Fu grip, yer not gonna get it off with pliers. You also might want to use something to loosen the bolt up like some WD-40 or some other type of penatraiting oil.
 
M

mustangdave

My rearend needs a stud and two nuts.
Founding Member
Feb 26, 2002
2,976
1
56
North Carolina
Feb 12, 2007
#5
  • Feb 12, 2007
  • #5
And use a 6 pt. socket, not 12.
 
S

suki243

Member
Dec 19, 2006
662
0
19
Southern California
Feb 17, 2007
#6
  • Feb 17, 2007
  • #6
Ok, i'm planning on ordering another stock 66 steering wheel,
as for the horn ring component do I need this?
http://www.mustangsunlimited.com/it...l&subCategory=Horn+Components&CatKey=EMUSTANG

HORN RING CONTACT KIT 65/66 STANDARD WHEEL
Horn Ring Contact Kit for 1965-1966 Mustang with Standard Wheel.

This kit mounts behind the horn ring and is used to complete the circuit when the horn is engaged.

Kit includes:
-3 Pan-head machine screws
-1 Molded rubber piece with steel washer
-1 Horn ring retainer
-1 Steel base plate

And, I don't have a battery tray, the dude put a rusted plate under hte battery and put a bungee cord around it to keep it on.
Is this the kit I need?
http://www.mustangsunlimited.com/it...ctrical&subCategory=Batteries&CatKey=EMUSTANG
BATTERY TRAY KIT 65/66 MUSTANG W/ GROUP 24 BATTERY
Battery Tray Kit for 1965-1966 Mustang with Group 24 Battery.

Kit includes:
-Battery Tray, #50732
-Down Clamp, #C5DZ10718A
-Battery Hold Down Clamp Bolt, #9491
 
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