Still fighting the battle

94 - Thermactor Air Injection system inoperative (left side).
44 - Thermactor Air Injection system inoperative (right side).
33 - EGR valve opening not detected.

Without properly connected vacuum lines, new EGR won't help. Same for the other 2 codes. What is your vacuum at idle? Should be around 20 inHG. Vacuum leaks will cause loss of power.

Vacuum gauge.

Use the SOP meter...
Get one of your buddies to ride along with you. Find a level stretch of road where you can do some testing. Watch for the wind speed and direction, it can have a definite impact on your test results.

Don't choose a speed range that will make you shift gears, the shift quality & speed will affect your results. Use 2nd or 3rd gear and do a run from 2000 RPM to 5800 RPM. Call out the RPM as it increases and have your buddy record it and the elapsed time. If you have one of those cheap digital watches like I do, a stop watch is built in.

Disconnect and cap every vacuum line except the dedicated line for the fuel pressure regulator. Connect a vacuum gauge and look for 20" vacuum at 1000-1200 RPM. No 20" of vacuum and you are likely to have a vacuum leak.

Now that you have all the vacuum lines capped redo the SOP meter. Same results, do a compression test.
Only use a compression tester with a screw in adapter for the spark plug hole. The other type leaks too much to get an accurate reading. Your local auto parts store may have a compression tester to rent. If you do mechanic work on your own car on a regular basis, it would be a good tool to add to your collection.

With the engine warmed up, remove all spark plugs and prop the throttle wide open with a plastic screwdriver handle between the throttle butterfly and the throttle housing. Crank the engine until it the gage reading stops increasing. On a cold engine, it will be hard to tell what's good & what's not. Some of the recent posts have numbers ranging from 140-170 PSI. If the compression is low, squirt some oil in the cylinder and do it again – if it comes up, the rings are worn. There should be no more than 10% difference between cylinders. Use a blow down leak test (puts compressed air inside cylinders) on cylinders that have more than 10% difference.

I generally use a big screwdriver handle stuck in the TB between the butterfly and the TB to prop the throttle open. The plastic is soft enough that it won't damage anything and won't get sucked down the intake either.

A battery charger (not the trickle type) is a good thing to have if you haven't driven the car lately or if you have any doubts about the battery's health. Connect it up while you are cranking the engine and it will help keep the starter cranking at a consistent speed from the first cylinder tested to the last cylinder.

Are the brakes rubbing? Looked like it was pretty smooth in the video, just some something holding it back. Might wanna jack up the car and see if the tires spin freely.