Straight shot with or without MAF

Get the one with the MAF. Its the same size as your stock one but flows a little more air due to the fact that its polished. I have that system and it rocks. You have to run high octane because alot more air is going in the engine.
 
turboscrew said:
Get the one with the MAF. Its the same size as your stock one but flows a little more air due to the fact that its polished. I have that system and it rocks. You have to run high octane because alot more air is going in the engine.
Your joking right.

Ok the maf is not i repeat not a restriction in the system infact the stock one has the same restriction all of the rest of the cold air kits have and that is a 90 degree bend right before the throttle body.

If you think that it flows more air because it is polished you are wrong or misinformed.

You have to run high octane because alot more air is going in the engine.

No you dont have to run high octane fuel in your car. There are two reasons you are doing it.
1. You read it in a magazine.
2. Your car pings because the crap aftermarket maf is leaning the car out to much so your quick bandaid is to rotate the maf and put expensive fuel in it.

I hope you are doing it because of #2 but even then you are sadly misinformed about how the maf relates to these cars so please stop spreading bad tech advice until you know more about the system.

Read every word ed has to say http://forums.modulardepot.com/showthread.php?s=&threadid=25092&highlight=MAF+replacement
 
Billy is right. Keep your OEM MAF and spend the money on a mod that won't cause you issues down the road. The OEM MAF is good for (at least) 350HP.
All that MAF (and most others that use the stock electronics) will do is lean you out, fooling the computer. Leaning the A/F ratio is a way to make power, but it must be done properly. See my sig below...my 02 wears the OEM MAF again, and if I had the OEM MAF for my wife's 01, it too would be back on. Fortunately, the Diablo in her's is pretty mild, so the MAF is not hurting anything, but it ain't helping either!
My 85mm MAF kit is going out on EBay this weekend...
 
Ok the maf is not i repeat not a restriction in the system infact the stock one has the same restriction all of the rest of the cold air kits have and that is a 90 degree bend right before the throttle body.

Alright, I will stop giving advice if you stop talking about things that you dont know anything about. The straight shot system has no 90 degree bends in it and the biggest restriction on the stock system is the accordian shaped rubber elbow. If you look at the stock maf it is 85mm on the inlet side and then tapers down to 80mm about 1in. from the front all the way to the back side of the maf. The maf Mac measures 85mm from the front opening all the way through the housing and is polished, all which adds up to more cfm of air. If you dont believe me call Mac or Chuck at pro3i Inds. Both have researched and dynoed these systems. And guess what they do work.

When you do get a program you have to tell them that you have a cai installed and they automatically know that the car is running lean and will compensate for it. Im not spreading bad tech advice just my opinion and facts of what i had to do with my setup. Getting peoples opinions is what this site is for. Just because you dont agree with mine doesnt mean i dont know what im talking about.
 
the stock accordian rubber was put back on my car and it trapped more consistant and the same top mph as a mac t/b to maf tube. changing out anything more than the filter (from the sock airbox to the t/b)isnt helping an na car from what i have seen.
 
The maf to tb tube wont offer anymore gians until you go to different heads or more aggressive camshafts as Jackie intends to do. The stock heads and camshafts can only pull in a certain amount of air. After that it doesnt matter if you have an 8in. tube connected to the tb. But the hard pipe will make a difference when you have heads that will flow more or cams that will let more air in.

BTW those are awesome times Jackie. i hope i can get mine near those numbers.
 
turboscrew said:
The maf to tb tube wont offer anymore gians until you go to different heads or more aggressive camshafts as Jackie intends to do. The stock heads and camshafts can only pull in a certain amount of air. After that it doesnt matter if you have an 8in. tube connected to the tb. But the hard pipe will make a difference when you have heads that will flow more or cams that will let more air in.

BTW those are awesome times Jackie. i hope i can get mine near those numbers.
Thanks, its all about practice, and observing what the fast guys do.
 
turboscrew said:
Alright, I will stop giving advice if you stop talking about things that you dont know anything about. The straight shot system has no 90 degree bends in it and the biggest restriction on the stock system is the accordian shaped rubber elbow.

All of them, including the Straight Shot and the OEM accordian rubber hose, has a 90 degree bend - going into the TB. This is exactly what Billy said...go back and re-read it. I don't know Billy from Adam, but he knows what he is talking about.
 
John (Jackie Chan)...when are you gonna hit 12's? What are your plans to break this barrier? Lord knows your abilities with your current combo are about as tweaked as they can get. Do you think the fact that you're in a vert rather than a coupe hurt you, and if so, how much? Verts, I thought, are heavier by design, but part of that weight is sub frame connectors, so this should be a benefit, right?
Sorry to be a thread-thief...
 
I know what he said but its more like a 60 degree bend that is smooth and rounded. A 90 degree is sharp and abrupt. If thats a restriction then the bend where the air leaves the plenum and goes into the intake manifold is a restriction too. Youll never get rid of all the restrictions on the motor, you just try to make them not as restrictive (ex: the Mac tube to tb is not as restrictive as the stock rubber tube)

I gave my opinion and you gave yours. Now let 1bad04gt make his own mind up about what to get or not get.

1bad04gt, sorry it turned into a tech fest but i was just giving my expirences and opinions with the straight shot w/maf system. Call Chuck at pro3i inds. and talk to him and get his opinions also. His number is 1-866-gopro3i.


Oh yeah, about me having to use 93 with my setup is this: About 2 weeks ago Ford had to reflash my computer because it lost memory while driving a couple weeks ago. After the reflash i had a pinging problem using 87 and 89. I took it back and the tech found out that when he reflash it the timing was set at 14 degrees instead of the factory setting of 10 degrees. He said that he doesnt know why it did that but it would be ok if i use 93 or he could reflash back to stock timing. Oh well i got a timing advance for free without having to buy a timing adjuster. He checked the a/f ratio too with the straight shot on and it was just a little on the lean side but not out of the computers parameters enough to not be able to compensate for it. Some kits will tend to run leaner than others. (ex: c&l meters and tubes)
 
ok call me dumb im finally gonna ask but what does it mean to run lean and what does it mean to run rich....ive been hearing these terms and i still havent figured out totally what it means...sorry i guess im still a newbie to certain things
 
turboscrew said:
I know what he said but its more like a 60 degree bend that is smooth and rounded. A 90 degree is sharp and abrupt. If thats a restriction then the bend where the air leaves the plenum and goes into the intake manifold is a restriction too. Youll never get rid of all the restrictions on the motor, you just try to make them not as restrictive (ex: the Mac tube to tb is not as restrictive as the stock rubber tube)

I gave my opinion and you gave yours. Now let 1bad04gt make his own mind up about what to get or not get.

1bad04gt, sorry it turned into a tech fest but i was just giving my expirences and opinions with the straight shot w/maf system. Call Chuck at pro3i inds. and talk to him and get his opinions also. His number is 1-866-gopro3i.


Oh yeah, about me having to use 93 with my setup is this: About 2 weeks ago Ford had to reflash my computer because it lost memory while driving a couple weeks ago. After the reflash i had a pinging problem using 87 and 89. I took it back and the tech found out that when he reflash it the timing was set at 14 degrees instead of the factory setting of 10 degrees. He said that he doesnt know why it did that but it would be ok if i use 93 or he could reflash back to stock timing. Oh well i got a timing advance for free without having to buy a timing adjuster. He checked the a/f ratio too with the straight shot on and it was just a little on the lean side but not out of the computers parameters enough to not be able to compensate for it. Some kits will tend to run leaner than others. (ex: c&l meters and tubes)

60 degrees? You need to get a protractor out and see what 60 degrees is. Last I looked the TB sticks out of the motor at 90 degree angle from the side of the car. Since the Straight Shot runs nearly parallel to the side of the car (no not exactly parallel, but it's pretty close to parallel) a 90 degree (or so) turn is necessary somewhere! I'll agree it may not be exactly 90, but it's much closer to 90 than 60.
Why would you say that C&L meters and tubes are more apt to run lean as opposed to the Straight Shot? Do you have info to back this statement? If the MAC is similiar to the C&L (measuring 85mm thru the entire MAF, just like the C&L) and it uses the stock electronics, where would this difference be created? I'd believe that they would be very similiar in their leaning tendencies.
These so called performance MAFs are a joke - they are just expensive aluminum tubes, using the stock electronics, that fool the computer and lean the motor out. The OEM MAF is not restrictive and is good for 350 HP (or more). If you want to make power by leaning, do it the right way and get a dyno tuned chip or handheld programmer.
 
I have read a number of posts that people who have c&l meters dont like the way the car runs with them so they take them off. I see where you are doing the same thing. I dont know which one tends to lean more than the other. All im saying is that I like the whole straight shot system w/maf. I dont have any drivability problems with the one it comes with. until i have problems strictlly from the maf itself, i wont call it a joke. Until any of you that down this product tries it, you cant call it a joke. Right now, I stand by my decisions and opinions on this matter.
 
Correct me if im wrong but the only pictures of the c&l meters that ive seen it has a tube on the top of the meter inside. It may be from a different application but the Mac maf is hollow all the way thru. The only thing inside it is the sensors. Maybe the tube in the c&l makes things different. I dont know really. Just an observation on differences between the 2.
 
The 99-01 have the calibration tube, but the 02+ do not; it's completely straight thru. Here is a pic of mine - it doesn't completely show the top of the tube, but there is nothing but the OEM sensors that stick down thru.
My wife's 01 C&L MAF has the calibration tube. (They have different sizes for different size injectors) Not sure how MAC handles this or how the 99-01 OEM MAF looks as we don't have the OEM one to compare.
 
turboscrew said:
Alright, I will stop giving advice if you stop talking about things that you dont know anything about. The straight shot system has no 90 degree bends in it and the biggest restriction on the stock system is the accordian shaped rubber elbow. If you look at the stock maf it is 85mm on the inlet side and then tapers down to 80mm about 1in. from the front all the way to the back side of the maf. The maf Mac measures 85mm from the front opening all the way through the housing and is polished, all which adds up to more cfm of air. If you dont believe me call Mac or Chuck at pro3i Inds. Both have researched and dynoed these systems. And guess what they do work.

When you do get a program you have to tell them that you have a cai installed and they automatically know that the car is running lean and will compensate for it. Im not spreading bad tech advice just my opinion and facts of what i had to do with my setup. Getting peoples opinions is what this site is for. Just because you dont agree with mine doesnt mean i dont know what im talking about.

Dude have you looked inside the stock tube it is smooth. Your minumal mod 4.6 cannot use 100% of the total volume of air that the stock tube can supply so what difference does it make if you put a 6 foot pipe in place of it. I could understand if you had a 400bhp motor but something that is putting less than 300 give me a break.

Bottom line you still have no clue what your talking about and if you want to give your opinion go to talk but when someone asks a TECHNICAL question dont answer.