Stripped out engine bay

BullittStangV8 · Dec 17, 2005

OK, the 65 coupe is getting the complete engine bay treatment since then engine is blown and pulled from the car. So my question is this: Whats the best way to go about cleaning out the engine bay, stripping out the old paint, and repainting? The engine bay paint is fadded badly, and just looks bad. Is it best to sand the old paint down? Paint remover? I really dont know, as this is my first time doing this. So please, any tips, step by step processes, or tricks would be great.
Thanks guys

Shamrock · Dec 17, 2005

Well of course the best option is to completely strip the paint, prime it back and paint it again. I'd start by spraying it down with some simple green, let that soak for a while, then use a pressure washer and a brush to get all the dirt, grease, and grime out of there. Next, use "aircraft remover" to strip most of the paint off (tip: the worse it smells and more warnings it has on the can, the better it will work) Follow the directions on the can and you'll probably have to do it over once or twice to get most of it off. Whatever paint is left in there, just use some sandpaper, steel wool, or the fastest method is a wire brush on a drill to get the remaining paint off. Then go back, use the simple green, pressure washer, and brush again to clean any of the stripper residue off.

Once you've got it down to the bare metal and really clean, prime it back before any surface rusts starts forming. Then prime, wet sand, prime, wet sand, clean and use a tack rag, then paint. I'd recommend using a flat black paint. The sheet metal in the engine bay isn't smooth and to me doesn't look good with a glossy paint.

If you don't want to go through all that, then clean it using the same method mentioned above, sand it to give the existing paint a rough finish and remove any loose paint, then prime and paint.

mfp4073 · Dec 17, 2005

Let me say from experience that its a bitch to go back to metal. All the nooks and crannies make it a lot of work. BUT it is soo worth it to be finished with. Just a bit of advice or experience. I went with an exterior gloss black instead of the factory finish. It makes it SOOOOO much easier to whipe down and clean. It also looks shape, but it is obviously not factory looking.

jcode68 · Dec 17, 2005

I recently did my engine bay while I had the engine out of the car. I used the Simple Green and pressure washer method, followed by lots of wet sanding and then a final scuff pad before primer. I also decided to use a high gloss black and went with top of the line PPG single stage paint. It is so much easier to keep clean than flat or satin finish paints and it is extremely durable stuff. More pics here

Lastly, if you are convinced you need to go to bare metal, then media blasting is the best choice, but only possible if you are really doing the whole car.

Shamrock · Dec 17, 2005

jcode68 said:
Lastly, if you are convinced you need to go to bare metal, then media blasting is the best choice, but only possible if you are really doing the whole car.

True, that's how I did mine, but didn't mention it because from his post it sounded like only the engine bay would be done, that the rest of the car would stay as is.

iskwezm · Dec 17, 2005

i stripped with aircraft stripper,thensmoothed all the spot welds and painted mine the body color

69 Rustang · Dec 17, 2005

I have always either sandblasted the bay myself or paid someone to do it. It can be done with a car put together, just need to disassemble the front sheet metal and take the engine/trans out. I have done that and covered/masked the car with plastic from the cowl back with excellent results. You still get on the car under the plastic, but some time with a blow gun and the sand is gone.

I have never painted over the existing paint, but am planning to do that on my 73 real soon. As long as the existing paint is not scratched or rusted through I don't see any problem.

As the others said--degreasing is a very important first step and I have always spent a lot of time with that up front before doing anything.

BullittStangV8 · Dec 17, 2005

So would it be a solid method to simple green it..then scuff up the old flat black paint and prime it, and then throw on a new layer of gloss paint (if I want gloss)? I dont think the metal underneath the flat black that I have now is in bad condition..The paint simply looks "old".
And media blasting it is not an option, as the whole car doesnt need any work..just the engine bay.
Semi-side note: The battery tray is rusted out. Whats needed to replace it?
Mike

BullittStangV8 · Dec 17, 2005

Also, should the outter fenders be taken off?
Mike

68converted · Dec 18, 2005

Sorry, but I will tell you that in my experience doing this, Simple Green is just that "green". I had very poor results with that product. I got a one gallon bottle from Home Depot, of Zepp's industrial degreaser (purple color).

Now that stuff strips grease, and your skin, and burns the hell out of your eyes, and leaves brand new/clean concrete spots wherever it drips on the garage floor, and, and, and... wear long rubber gloves and good eye protection. If you get it on your skin wash it off quickly. Basically, use the same precautions as you would with the aircraft stripper.

It will cut your degreasing time in half, and one gallon is about the same cost as a 16oz bottle of not-so-Simple Green.

danny clemens · Dec 18, 2005

BullittStangV8 said:
So would it be a solid method to simple green it..then scuff up the old flat black paint and prime it, and then throw on a new layer of gloss paint (if I want gloss)? I dont think the metal underneath the flat black that I have now is in bad condition..The paint simply looks "old".
And media blasting it is not an option, as the whole car doesnt need any work..just the engine bay.
Semi-side note: The battery tray is rusted out. Whats needed to replace it?
Mike

If only your battery tray is rusted out you can get a kit from any of the Mustang parts suppliers and bolt it in. If it is rusted behind it on the apron it will be more involved. The only correct way to fix this is to cut the bad out and replace it by welding new metal in. You can also buy patch kits that fit this area.

concreteman · Dec 18, 2005

68converted
Sorry, but I will tell you that in my experience doing this, Simple Green is just that "green". I had very poor results with that product. I got a one gallon bottle from Home Depot, of Zepp's industrial degreaser (purple color).

Oh yeah, that stuff will definately remove whatever skin it gets on, I made the mistake of thinking it was just an average degreaser and after a few minutes wondered why my hands felt slimy, took a look at my fingers and realized the majority of the skin was rapidly disappearing, two weeks till they were back to normal, and I work in concrete and have various layers of calluses on my calluses.
If you don't have a HOme Depot in your area, try auto parts stores, I got it there, really works, and I would sand it down smooth before you paint. I didn't on mine but only because I am going to pull my engine and tranny again in a few years and completely paint the entire car at which point I plan on sanding the car down to bare metal, I just wanted to brighten up the bay for the time being.

BullittStangV8 · Dec 18, 2005

Well...Pulled the battery, and the tray under it...to find that the lower support piece is rusted beyond repair. So I guess a new kit will have to go in at some point..or cut it out and locate the battery to the rear.
All of the electronics are pulled, along with the rad and grill. So tom. hopefully after work I'll pick up some simple green to degrease this weekend.

dennis112 · Dec 19, 2005

BullittStangV8 said:
Well...Pulled the battery, and the tray under it...to find that the lower support piece is rusted beyond repair. So I guess a new kit will have to go in at some point..or cut it out and locate the battery to the rear.
All of the electronics are pulled, along with the rad and grill. So tom. hopefully after work I'll pick up some simple green to degrease this weekend.

Pretty much a typical situation. If you are not going concourse, you can cut out only the offending area and use regular sheet metal to patch it OR purchase a new battery apron ($25 or so) and cut it up just enough to replace the bad section. This gives a quick repair and allows you to keep the fenders on at the same time and it maintains the structural integrity of the engine compartment if you have only mediocre welding skills.

HistoricMustang · Dec 19, 2005

Hey folks, some very nice looking engine bays!

When I get to the point of re-doing mine in the track car am going to spray it gray. Seen several done this way and it is special, plus the gray will show ANY fluid problems that may develop in a very quick way!

HistoricMustang
www.historicmustang.com

Shakin66 · Dec 19, 2005

If you need a replacment battery tray I have a new one I will not be using since I moved the battery to the trunk. I keep meaning to put it on ebay but never take the time. If you'll pay shipping you can have it,email me at jamesleasing@bellsouth.com if your interested.

BullittStangV8 · Dec 19, 2005

Is it just the tray? or the tray, and the support parts under it?
Mike

BullittStangV8 · Dec 19, 2005

Update again....
I sanded down where the surface rust was...and its not surface rust..it goes pretty deap/through it. There actually are a couple spots where I can see daylight.. Ive found battery trays, but is there any piece which replaces the area of the inner fender?
SO. Whats next?

Shakin66 · Dec 19, 2005

Its just the tray. But it sounds like you need to do some welding.

BullittStangV8 · Dec 19, 2005

Sadly that seems like it will be the case..
I found this: http://www.dallasmustang.com/page/products.php?category=&group=&family=&product=M116R
That looks like the right part. So Cutting out the bad part thats in the fender, and then cutting that to match the rusted out part. Weld in.
I guess that would be better then using the whole new piece?

Stripped out engine bay

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