Stuck don't know what to do next.

S

SuperDust22

The Power of Pixie Dust?!

Oct 19, 2003

1,821

0

0

Gilbert,AZ

Mar 2, 2004

#1

• Mar 2, 2004

• #1

The last mod I did was the cobra intake. That gave me okay power. Now I don't know what I want to do next. I am doing my tanny for sure but other than that I am stuck. I want to lose some of the weight on my car. What are some cheap ways to do that? Also I want to get better traction? I want to know where the best places are to get cheap parts on upper and lower control arms, subframe connectors. I want a cheap but quality parts. I also have eibach pro kit springs. They ride really really really hard. I don't know if that is the springs are or if that is just how mustangs drive. I would like to get some better riding springs for the street but that will still do good at the track. And last I am thinking of swapping for a C4 tanny anyone have any advice on that. I don't know if I should build my AODE or build a C4.
Thanks
Dustin

 

S

SuperDust22

The Power of Pixie Dust?!

Oct 19, 2003

1,821

0

0

Gilbert,AZ

Mar 2, 2004

#2

• Mar 2, 2004

• #2

Also what about a custom burnt chip? Would that benfit me now or not?

 

GTJake

Founding Member

Oct 28, 2002

3,049

0

56

Ann Arbor, MI

Mar 2, 2004

#3

• Mar 2, 2004

• #3

Skip the chip. Subframe connectors are nice. You can get uncoated ones from Maximum Motorsports for like $89 and then just paint them yourself. Steeda has some good aluminum upper and lower control arms. The first mod I'd do would be a higher stall torque convertor. That will wake everything up.

Jake

 

Numbles

Active Member

Dec 10, 2003

998

0

36

Chicago, IL

Mar 2, 2004

#4

• Mar 2, 2004

• #4

I didn't see any heads in your sig. Those would be a good mod. Try the classifieds, there are always some gt-40 p's floatin around for cheap. Good luck with yor decision.

 

S

SuperDust22

The Power of Pixie Dust?!

Oct 19, 2003

1,821

0

0

Gilbert,AZ

Mar 2, 2004

#5

• Mar 2, 2004

• #5

Heads and cam are in the furture. I am looking to do that end of summer. But until then I want to do alot of cheap mods that will help me out. I will be doing a stall converter in about week and a half(over spring break). I just don't know what tanny I am going to do it on. Either I will take my aode out and rebuild it and put a aftermarket stall on it or I will build a nice C4 up(transbrake,stall, manual vavle body, etc). The only problem is I do alot of everyday driving and I don't know how I would like a 3 speed.

 

J

jetuomi

Founding Member

Jan 30, 2002

1,464

0

0

Toronto, ON

Mar 2, 2004

#6

• Mar 2, 2004

• #6

I just got my battery (optima) and mounted it in the back (Taylor kit) and (a) it looks awesome and (b) the car launches better !!!!

On the street it noticeably handles better.. I'd say way better "seat-of-the-pants" than subframe connectors (which I also have)..

but subframes are a bang-for-the-buck mod, $100 installed usually..

 

final5-0

Mustang Master

Apr 6, 2003

6,817

12

79

DFW Texas

Mar 2, 2004

#7

• Mar 2, 2004

• #7

What about a tc for the trans?

I hear that they make a auto trans really come alive.

Later
Grady

 

S

SuperDust22

The Power of Pixie Dust?!

Oct 19, 2003

1,821

0

0

Gilbert,AZ

Mar 2, 2004

#8

• Mar 2, 2004

• #8

I am doing a TC in about a week and a half. I still don't know what trans I am going to do it for. My AODE or a C4. I was wondering what else I could do? And does anyone have any opinions about was I should do with my tanny?

Killer, RC I need you guys.

I know I have misspelled a couple words so RC should be in here in a minute.

 

red94fiveo

New Member

Apr 12, 2003

1,269

0

0

Wichita, KS

Mar 2, 2004

#9

• Mar 2, 2004

• #9

I'd say you've about got the engine covered until the big Head/Cam swap. For now, I would say subframes are a great bang for the buck, and maybe some other suspension mods. You'd be suprised how they wake the car up.

 

S

SuperDust22

The Power of Pixie Dust?!

Oct 19, 2003

1,821

0

0

Gilbert,AZ

Mar 2, 2004

#10

• Mar 2, 2004

• #10

Yeah I think the engine is covered too unless there is any little bolt ons to do. I might need something I am forgetting about(fuel pump, etc). What all would I need to get for the suspension for it to really help my ETs.

 

GTJake

Founding Member

Oct 28, 2002

3,049

0

56

Ann Arbor, MI

Mar 2, 2004

#11

• Mar 2, 2004

• #11

What stall are you getting? Upper and lower control arms and subframes should help your sixties. You don't need a fuel pump with your mods until you get to heads and cam. The only other thing you could do to help your suspension (for drag racing) would be to get rid of the lowering springs and either get some Eibach drag springs or Fox 4cyl. spring and some 70/30's for the front and 50/50's in back.

Jake

 

Joes95GT

New Member

Jan 23, 2003

3,132

1

0

Delaware

Mar 2, 2004

#12

• Mar 2, 2004

• #12

I'm going to have to go with the majority and say a converter. I would build the AODE. It is just as strong as the C4, plus you get to keep the OD. It costs a little more, but if you car is your daily driver, which it is, it would be the extra cash.

Joe

 

S

SuperDust22

The Power of Pixie Dust?!

Oct 19, 2003

1,821

0

0

Gilbert,AZ

Mar 2, 2004

#13

• Mar 2, 2004

• #13

GTJake said:

What stall are you getting? Upper and lower control arms and subframes should help your sixties. You don't need a fuel pump with your mods until you get to heads and cam. The only other thing you could do to help your suspension (for drag racing) would be to get rid of the lowering springs and either get some Eibach drag springs or Fox 4cyl. spring and some 70/30's for the front and 50/50's in back.

Jake

Click to expand...

I think I will get a stall around 3000 give or take some. I don't know which brand yet either. I was thinking PI but I don't know if I want to spend that much. I might go with an ART CARR. Where would be the best place to buy upper and lower control arms and subframes. Also how will the drag springs ride compared to my springs now and where is the best place to buy them? And what does 70/30's for the front and 50/50's in back mean? Is that the stiffness of the springs.

Joes95GT said:

I'm going to have to go with the majority and say a converter. I would build the AODE. It is just as strong as the C4, plus you get to keep the OD. It costs a little more, but if you car is your daily driver, which it is, it would be the extra cash.

Joe

Click to expand...

I think I am just going to build my AODE. I will spend the extra moeny for it to be more of a daily driver. Now I need to frigure out what I am going to do with the tanny. I need to call art carr tomorrow. I don't know what I am going to build it up with. I don't want to spend an arm and a leg. Thanks guys. Any more ideas.

 

GTJake

Founding Member

Oct 28, 2002

3,049

0

56

Ann Arbor, MI

Mar 2, 2004

#14

• Mar 2, 2004

• #14

SuperDust22 said:

I think I will get a stall around 3000 give or take some. I don't know which brand yet either. I was thinking PI but I don't know if I want to spend that much. I might go with an ART CARR. Where would be the best place to buy upper and lower control arms and subframes. Also how will the drag springs ride compared to my springs now and where is the best place to buy them? And what does 70/30's for the front and 50/50's in back mean? Is that the stiffness of the springs.

Click to expand...

The PI's seems to have some good results. I know RC will tell you it's worth the money. For subframes I would do either Griggs or MM. Upper and lowers can be had at Steeda, UPR, D&D and tons of other places. I have no first hand expirence with drag spring so I can't comment on the ride, but you probably won't be able to take corners like you can now with them. 70/30's are a type of strut. They let the front end lift off a little better and aid in weight transfer. 50/50's are a type of shock and help with traction. A free mod you could do would be to just yank the front sway bar for the track.

Jake

 

Joes95GT

New Member

Jan 23, 2003

3,132

1

0

Delaware

Mar 2, 2004

#15

• Mar 2, 2004

• #15

50/50, 70/30, 90/10, are all shock or strut "rates". The first number is the percentage of rebound up, and the other is the rebound down. For example, a 90/10 has 90 percent of it's rebound up and 10 percent of it's rebound down. That is what makes it a good drag strut because it allows the front end to lift very easily because it's so loose.

Joe

 

S

SuperDust22

The Power of Pixie Dust?!

Oct 19, 2003

1,821

0

0

Gilbert,AZ

Mar 3, 2004

#16

• Mar 3, 2004

• #16

Okay now where would I get a cheap set of struts. And how will caster camber plates help me out. As for build my AODE what do you think I should do to it. How much would a manul valve body and transbrake really help me.

 

Joes95GT

New Member

Jan 23, 2003

3,132

1

0

Delaware

Mar 3, 2004

#17

• Mar 3, 2004

• #17

SuperDust22 said:

Okay now where would I get a cheap set of struts. And how will caster camber plates help me out. As for build my AODE what do you think I should do to it. How much would a manul valve body and transbrake really help me.

Click to expand...

Art Carr seems like a reputable company to go with. Make sure you get a big enough converter. I would defintely get a transbrake for the trips to the track. A manual valve body would help out a ton, but that's if you want to shift the car yourself.

Joe

 

S

SuperDust22

The Power of Pixie Dust?!

Oct 19, 2003

1,821

0

0

Gilbert,AZ

Mar 3, 2004

#18

• Mar 3, 2004

• #18

I don't mine shifting the car. I might get a hammer shifter. I still don't know if I want to spend all that money on my tanny right now. I will call art carr tomorrow and price it out.