Subs are not working??

stroked4.6 · Jun 18, 2006

Well I pretty much completed my stereo but my subs wont go on. I have one cable going to a splitter which contains 2 fuses. From there it goes to a battery capacitor and then to the amps. One amp is for 4 speakers and this works fine (sounds great) but then I have another amp for the subs and it wont work right. The power light goes on green but then there are two loud beeps and the green power light goes red. I'm guessing its overloaded??

I am only doing this in the accessory position since my car has no motor right now. I just wanted to get all the small stuff done before I get the motor this week. Do you think since there isnt enough current with the car not running the amp just powers down??

PuterAmI · Jun 18, 2006

Perhaps the manual of the amplifier will tell you what "green, two beeps, red" means. Probably means it sees a load less than its stable level, but without even knowing what amp it is, that is just a WAG.

stroked4.6 · Jun 18, 2006

Sorry bout that... Its a Sony Xplod 600w amp. Model # XM-2100GTX.

I dont have the manual anymore - I hope they have these online.

stroked4.6 · Jun 18, 2006

I figured it out!! Part of the speaker (where you make the connections) was touching the bare metal of the car. I rotated the speaker and now its all Its working now. I just need the adjust the amp. The subs are working but there is no thump. I didn’t use a sealed enclosure since there wasn’t enough room since my subs are in my rear seat delete.

iskwezm · Jun 18, 2006

stroked4.6 said:
I figured it out!! Part of the speaker (where you make the connections) was touching the bare metal of the car. I rotated the speaker and now its all Its working now. I just need the adjust the amp. The subs are working but there is no thump. I didn’t use a sealed enclosure since there wasn’t enough room since my subs are in my rear seat delete.

make sure the subs are in a sealed enclosure(with no leaks) or a ported enclosure built to specs. If the rear seat delete is leaking air, its no better then holding the speaker in your hand and letting it play

stroked4.6 · Jun 18, 2006

So if there is not a sealed enclosure the speaker wont perform well? It wont thump how it should right? The rear seat delete is not air tight. Will this hurt the sub at all? I dont think there is enough room under the seat to make a sealed enclosure. Do you have any ideas?

This is what Ive done...

PuterAmI · Jun 19, 2006

stroked4.6 said:
Part of the speaker (where you make the connections) was touching the bare metal of the car.

Whoa...

Uh, yeah. I know of no amp that is stable to zero ohms.

iskwezm · Jun 20, 2006

stroked4.6 said:
So if there is not a sealed enclosure the speaker wont perform well? It wont thump how it should right? The rear seat delete is not air tight. Will this hurt the sub at all? I dont think there is enough room under the seat to make a sealed enclosure. Do you have any ideas?

This is what Ive done...

looks clean, but i have yet to hear a rear seat delete thats sounds 100% like it should. I would fiberglass the bottom to a mold of the floor pan and make a sealed enclosure

Infinity · Jun 20, 2006

As in most cases, I agree with Iskwezm, and I'll go so far as to say that those drivers will not sound good even sealed in that tiny airspace offered there. Only a select few will. The Image Dynamics IDQ and the DIYMA 12 are the best true tiny box woofers I can think of off the top of my head. If those are 10's, maybe an IDQ or an Adire Brahma, but they're quite pricey.

BTW, it may not sound the way you want (yet), but that is a clean install.

Subs are not working??

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