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  • SN95 4.6L Mustang Tech

suspension order

  • Thread starter Thread starter Torinalth
  • Start date Start date Oct 3, 2005
T

Torinalth

Founding Member
Jul 16, 2002
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Clayton NC
Oct 3, 2005
#1
  • Oct 3, 2005
  • #1
I have HR race springs and Bils, and am about to start on the rest of the stuff. the following is what i am going to be getting, but looking for the most effective order to go in. each item will be done seperatly unless there will be a problem with doing it.

Steeda front sway bar /w bushings
steeda tie rod ends
mm adj rear sway bar
steeda steel LCAs
MM panhard bar

and at the end will be the Evo Tri link once everything else is done and adding HR super race in the rear.

I was thinking LCA, PHB, Front SB, tie rod ends, rear SB... but really dont know. the best order. Tom, your thoughts?

Torinalth
 

Dark Knight GT

I can't get it up......ok that didn't sound right.
May 26, 2003
3,653
2
56
Ozark, Missouri
Oct 3, 2005
#2
  • Oct 3, 2005
  • #2
I don't see any sub-frame connectors anywhere in your signature, or in the list of up comming mods. So, if you don't have those, I'de recommend you get a set. Go full length since you seem to be into handling.

Something else you might want to do is go with Maximum Motorsports adjustable lower control arms, not Steeda. I suggest MM because I have their drag race lower control arms and they're awesome. Get some adjustable uppers from a good company like UPR, Metco, or Griggs to give full adjustability.

The rest of the list looks fine. Except I'm curious if the Tri link setup has a panhard bar already in it or not, and if that will counter act the MM panhard bar.
 
T

Torinalth

Founding Member
Jul 16, 2002
952
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Clayton NC
Oct 3, 2005
#3
  • Oct 3, 2005
  • #3
i actually just came back to addd the MM XL Sub frames... completely slipped my mind for some reason.

the LCAs will stay non adjustable as i have no real need for ride height adjustment. i want some serious handeling, but i'm not going to track it.... i dont think... so i am not going to bother with it for now. the upper arms will not be replaced till the tri link is isntalled, at which time the trilink will displace the need for the upper arms (as it will be adding a single upper control arm in place of the two offset axle mounted ones). the trilink acts in the same way as a Torque arm and does not displace the PHB... and just like the TA it limits the windup, but needs the PHB/watts to limit the lateral movement of the axle. so, they compliment each other, not conflicting with each other.

Re-ordering because of my lapse in memory of the SFC...

LCA, SFC, PHB, FSB, TREs, ARSB, Tri Link... good order? or crap?
 

squares98

Member
Aug 20, 2004
852
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Orange,ca
Oct 3, 2005
#4
  • Oct 3, 2005
  • #4
it should be sfc's,lca's, panhard bar, front sway bar, rear sway bar, trilink(I dont think this is necessary on a street car, but its your $)
 
T

Torinalth

Founding Member
Jul 16, 2002
952
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Clayton NC
Oct 3, 2005
#5
  • Oct 3, 2005
  • #5
SFCs first ehh? if i can get 1-2 more suggesting that one first i'll go ahead and order them today. also, thanks for the responces.

Torinalth
 

Word_Life

Banned
Jun 30, 2005
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East Coast Lyfe
Oct 3, 2005
#6
  • Oct 3, 2005
  • #6
Laurel Mountain has a great MM knock-off SFC and it's cheaper, less welding.

I wouldn't try to mix and match different componets too much. There's a reason why these companys have kits, and they they do work great with their matching setups. Although I wouldn't mind seeing a Watts link on a car insted of a PHB. Don't forget the little things like the bushings control arms, swaybars, end-links etc.

squares98 said:
it should be sfc's,lca's, panhard bar, front sway bar, rear sway bar, trilink(I dont think this is necessary on a street car, but its your $)
Click to expand...
Also if you're not going to track the car DON'T add very stiff springs with very thick sway bars, especially with the solid axle. The rear bar should be replaced with a fully adjustable bar when you get the Tri-link anyway. Once you start getting a stiffer setup you'll see why a 'bump' and a higher spring rate don't go together in turns.

Dark Knight GT said:
The rest of the list looks fine. Except I'm curious if the Tri link setup has a panhard bar already in it or not, and if that will counter act the MM panhard bar.
Click to expand...
It depends on the design, and what kit you get. A Tri (3 piece) just means you have 1 Full UCA (1 link point) and 2 LCA's (two linking points) which leaves you open for a PHB or Watts


You can't see me,
Word Life.
 

tomustang

Psychotic Member
Founding Member
Jun 8, 2000
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Oct 5, 2005
#7
  • Oct 5, 2005
  • #7
 
T

Torinalth

Founding Member
Jul 16, 2002
952
0
16
Clayton NC
Oct 5, 2005
#8
  • Oct 5, 2005
  • #8
Tom, yyou agree with SFC first, then LCA?

Torinalth
 

tomustang

Psychotic Member
Founding Member
Jun 8, 2000
3,434
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McLean Hospital
Oct 5, 2005
#9
  • Oct 5, 2005
  • #9
Either way you look at it, SFCs are one of the most popular mods to get, that and exhaust. Nothing wrong with starting off with subs, having the chassis connected in the middle is one of the start offs to choose. some mods are better than others but they have their own task to do compared to others. LCA's hold a good purpose just as subs do, either way it doesn't matter as long as you do both of them, insted of just one
 

KronicRacer

Member
Jun 23, 2004
502
1
18
puttering around Ft Lauderdale, FL
Oct 5, 2005
#10
  • Oct 5, 2005
  • #10
i agree witheveryone has said

its very important you dont mix and match too many parts

SFC's are a great place to start and so are the lca's.

i hate to repeat but its true whats been said
 

Word_Life

Banned
Jun 30, 2005
51
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East Coast Lyfe
Oct 5, 2005
#11
  • Oct 5, 2005
  • #11
tomustang said:
Click to expand...
 

lgndracer

New Member
Feb 21, 2004
393
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0
Sumner, WA
Oct 5, 2005
#12
  • Oct 5, 2005
  • #12
Another vote for SFC first. I was amazed at the difference they made. Not just when in a corner hard, but just driving around. Once you put a set in, you will not believe how much flex you car has now that you don't realize.

I have been looking into TA/PHB set ups for a while. I see you have already replaced your springs, be prepared to change the rears again. Everything I have read so far talks about softening them up quite a bit when you make the change.
 
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