Suspension Setup

txredgt · Jul 16, 2010

So there are many different routes in which to go about doing this so I was hoping to get a sense of what I should do, in what order I should do it in, and how much I can look at spending alltogether. I know that I want the Ford Racing 'C' Springs because I do not want the car too lowered and I want/need MM caster/camber.. Other than that whats the best route? Coilover vs the stock setup and so on..? Thanks everyone!

robmac36067 · Jul 16, 2010

keep it simple to start with

do the c springs with new shocks and struts. Caster camber plates may not be needed with the c springs but if you wanna get them it won't hurt to do so. Then get it aligned. From there you can add sub-frame connectors which help a lot as well as upper and lower control arms. Coilovers are personal preference but I think they are a waste of money imo.

crazystang25 · Jul 17, 2010

Depends solely on what u want to do with the car. And there is a point when the coilovers will be needed.

txredgt · Jul 17, 2010

The car might see track time later on down the road but for now its a daily driver. I'm looking for a little improvement in handling and launching while not sacrificing too much of the ride quality.

trombonedemon · Jul 17, 2010

I would get some Lower Control arms first, they make the biggest difference w/handling. Then subframes. JMO

TacBear · Jul 18, 2010

You absolutely have to have CC plates with "C" springs!!

I have been in the game for a long time and the progression for SN 95's should be:

SUB FRAME CONNECTORS (First)

Front
"C" springs
CC Plates
ALIGNMENT!!!!!!
Steeda front ball joints

Rear
LCA's
Adjustable Shocks Sruts

If you want a track weapon do a rear panhard bar!

txredgt · Jul 19, 2010

Tac Bear how much do you think that setup would cost? 1000, 1500? I could probably install most of the stuff so that will help keep costs down

crazystang25 · Jul 19, 2010

ya i would say around there, it just depends on how much you do yourself. If you do the panhard bar i would do the MM one, as well as some struts for the front. as far as the rear shocks i would do the strange adjustables and probably some 90/10's for the front from lakewood or something like that. for the cc plates i would do the ones from MM.

TacBear · Jul 19, 2010

Sub Frame Connectors----$100.00 KB

Front
"C" springs------$100 FR
CC Plates-------$149.00 KB
ALIGNMENT-----$50.00
Steeda front ball joints--$129.00 Steeda

Rear
LCA's-------$299.00 KB
Adjustable Shocks Sruts--$550.00 Tokico

txredgt · Jul 23, 2010

So here goes a noob question and I hope I don't catch too much crap for it... why only front springs and not rears as well? They only sell them all 4 to a set everywhere I have looked...

Deleted member 38176 · Jul 23, 2010

As far as I've heard in the last 10 years, you don't NEED CC plates or any other suspension mods unless you're lowering more than 1.75".

C springs lower only 1.25" and you dont "absolutely need CC plates". I ran C springs on my old 01 GT without any other suspension mods for 6 years with absolutely no problems or additional wear on the tires.

I understand that the OP wants to do the CC plates and so on, so Im just commenting on the "CC plates are absolutely required" comment.

GettinThere · Jul 23, 2010

ahall2004 said:
...I know that I want the Ford Racing 'C' Springs because I do not want the car too lowered...

ahall2004 said:
...I'm looking for a little improvement in handling and launching while not sacrificing too much of the ride quality...

Maybe FRPP B springs would be a good choice? Same drop, rear springs same rate as the C springs, front springs not as harsh as the C springs.

TacBear · Jul 23, 2010

Nightfire said:
As far as I've heard in the last 10 years, you don't NEED CC plates or any other suspension mods unless you're lowering more than 1.75".

C springs lower only 1.25" and you dont "absolutely need CC plates". I ran C springs on my old 01 GT without any other suspension mods for 6 years with absolutely no problems or additional wear on the tires.

I understand that the OP wants to do the CC plates and so on, so Im just commenting on the "CC plates are absolutely required" comment.

Well I had some BAD inner tire wear after about 2000 miles after the "C" springs....so I got the KB Caster Plus Plates and a realignment, problem solved.

Dark04GT · Jul 24, 2010

C springs max out the stocker's ability to adjust, tech said it was a PITA.

txredgt · Jul 25, 2010

GettinThere said:
Maybe FRPP B springs would be a good choice? Same drop, rear springs same rate as the C springs, front springs not as harsh as the C springs.

So the difference in the B and C springs is the front spring rate... I can see the numbers 425 vs 650 but what exactly does this mean/do? Stiffer/softer? Wouldn't this also change the overall lowered height? Sorry for the questions but found some B springs near me I could pick up at a lesser than new price. Would it be better to go this route than the original C spring idea?

Dark04GT · Jul 25, 2010

ahall2004 said:
So the difference in the B and C springs is the front spring rate... I can see the numbers 425 vs 650 but what exactly does this mean/do? Stiffer/softer? Wouldn't this also change the overall lowered height? Sorry for the questions but found some B springs near me I could pick up at a lesser than new price. Would it be better to go this route than the original C spring idea?

The B's will be softer than the C's but should still give you the same drop as the C springs. The B's will be slightly stiffer than stock. Neither requires cc plates although cc plates does make it easier.

GettinThere · Jul 25, 2010

ahall2004 said:
So the difference in the B and C springs is the front spring rate... I can see the numbers 425 vs 650 but what exactly does this mean/do? Stiffer/softer? Wouldn't this also change the overall lowered height? Sorry for the questions but found some B springs near me I could pick up at a lesser than new price. Would it be better to go this route than the original C spring idea?

According to the FRPP catalog, the B springs have a progressive rate of 425 to 530, the C springs have a fixed rate of 650, and stock 2002 GT springs have a fixed rate of 450. The B springs will be a little stiffer than stock, and the C springs will be significantly stiffer than stock.

txredgt · Jul 25, 2010

If it were your car and you didnt want it 1.5 inches or lower which set would yall go with? I guess the B's would be better for a DD and give me the same drop.

GettinThere · Jul 26, 2010

ahall2004 said:
If it were your car and you didnt want it 1.5 inches or lower which set would yall go with? I guess the B's would be better for a DD and give me the same drop.

B's are high on my list.

Dark04GT · Jul 26, 2010

ahall2004 said:
If it were your car and you didnt want it 1.5 inches or lower which set would yall go with? I guess the B's would be better for a DD and give me the same drop.

Either one will work fine. I went with the C's because I don't mind the stiffness / wanted the stiffness. The B's are perfect for a DD, especially if you don't want to scrape on every bump. Get a set of B's and call it a day.

Suspension Setup

txredgt

robmac36067

Member

crazystang25

Member

txredgt

trombonedemon

Well-Known Member

TacBear

txredgt

crazystang25

Member

TacBear

Attachments

txredgt

Deleted member 38176

GettinThere

Member

TacBear

Dark04GT

txredgt

Dark04GT

GettinThere

Member

txredgt

GettinThere

Member

Dark04GT

Similar threads

Suspension Setup

Member

Member

Well-Known Member

Member

Attachments

Deleted member 38176

Member

Member

Member

Similar threads

Privacy & Transparency

Privacy & Transparency