switching from efi to carb
- Thread starter 347lxvert
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How about a repeat the description of your surging idle problems? Have you been through the fixes in the Surging Idle Checklist sticky posted at the top of the forum?347lxvert said:
my idle surges on occasion, wont idle in gear sometimes, and it just seems like one thing after another, it misses sometimes and sometimes it dont, i have replaced just about everything except the fuel pressure regulator and the iac(which is only 3 months old), and it still is just really sporatic, i have set my tps voltage several different times, my car wont idle at all below 1000 rpm in park with the iac unplugged, i just dont understand what else could be wrong with it. i wish there was someone close to where i live that i could take it to, so that they could help me figure it out, i know for sure that a carb would make it significantly easier to work on
Do you know anything about carbs or how they work? If you dont, then you will be switching from one problem to another. I didnt have any surging issues or anything, but i decided to make my car just a weekender, and learned (and still learning) about carbs. I dont like electronics as much as some of us, and didnt want to have to deal with 13 year old wiring, and a zillion relays etc... but that was my reasoning. You have to ask yourself what you want from the car, and what are you willing to learn to accomplish it. i can help you out alot as far as what you need to make the swap, as can 2Vmodular...look up posts from JRichker, me, crazypete, 2VModular and michael yount concerning carb swaps. you will find a ton of info, and this website will also help you out on making your decision.
http://www.jason.fletcher.net/
http://www.jason.fletcher.net/
347lxvert said:
The key phrase in your problem description is: my car wont idle at all below 1000 rpm in park with the iac unplugged. That suggests a vacuum leak. The only way you find vacuum leaks to to disasseble things and inspect them carefully. The small hoses tend to crack and leak, intake manifold gaskets will shift on installation if you are not careful or clever.
Do go through the "Help me create the Surging Idle Checklist" one step at at time and make sure you have all the easy stuff done first, and then start taking the upper and lower manifolds off and doing some through inspection of the hoses and gaskets.
I have seen on Stangnet pictures of the lower intake gaskets shifting to the point that the lower edges of the intake manifold didn't seal.347lxvert said:
My favorite trick that saves time and effort is the stay in place gasket. Be sure that you scrape (don't use a wire brush) all the old gasket material off, then clean all the surfaces with acetone or MEK.
When the surfaces are clean, use weather strip adhesive on the head to manifold surface, and on the side of the gasket that mates to the head. Follow the instructions on the tube or can and when it gets tacky, press the gasket down on the head.
Clean the area where the rubber rails mount to the block in front and in the rear with more acetone or MEK and do the same trick with the weather strip adhesive that you did to the heads.
Coat the rubber seals and the gasket area around the water passages with lots of Blue Silicone gasket sealer and put it together. Wala! no leaks, and no gaskets that shifted out of place.
my brother switched his car to a carb and it made a world of difference in the power, i am just not sure about all the stuff that goes with the efi, like i am not sure i have the right size throttle body, i am pretty sure i need an adjustable fuel pressure regulator, and other stuff like that
Keep in mind that a car that had EFI will not pass emmissions testing if you convert to carb. That may not be important where you are.
Here's a book that will get you started with how the Ford electronic engine control or "computer" works.
Ford Fuel Injection & Electronic Engine Control 1988-1993 by Charles Probst :ISBN 0-8376-0301-3.
It's about $20 from Borders.com see http://www.amazon.com/ . Select boo...very good, and I found it to be very helpful.
Here's a book that will get you started with how the Ford electronic engine control or "computer" works.
Ford Fuel Injection & Electronic Engine Control 1988-1993 by Charles Probst :ISBN 0-8376-0301-3.
It's about $20 from Borders.com see http://www.amazon.com/ . Select boo...very good, and I found it to be very helpful.
And there lies the problem. Most guy's are going to take their car to a tuner because they can't do it themselves. You buy into someone else's idea of what you car should be, or do. Granted there are some knowledgable people on here, but the average guy can't do it himself.347lxvert said:
I think I need an "amen" on that one?!?!
Carbs are old school, but they've stood the test of time. You throw a carb at a young guy today, and he can't tell a jet from a choke. That's why most guy's on places like this don't like em, because they don't know anything about them. I know enough about EFI to know I need to leave it alone.
At least I tried.
Next time you're at the track, go see what type of induction most of the fast guy's run. Let me know back.
Thanks!
For a 347 stroker engine, this should work well347lxvert said:
70 MM TB
76 MM-80 MM MAF calibrated for 30 LB injectors
30 LB injectors (good to 400 - 425 Hp)
155 LPH fuel pump
The above assumes you have aluminum heads, good high flow intake and cam.
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