Synthetic oil?

drakesdad · Jun 8, 2006

What's up guys.....feel free to give your accounts on this...
I have been running 10w30.......been thinking of switching to synthetic...I know it is supposed to help lengthen the life of the motor.....any other advantages...Car has 65K on the clock...
Thanks,
Will

The Green GT · Jun 8, 2006

I use semi-synthetic, its works fine for me, no problems. Full synthetic lubes better so its supoposed to free up a little power due to less friction. I remember watching the episode of Horsepower TV when they had an LS1 Camaro and they changed the oil, differential oil, and tranny oil with synthetic Royal Purple. The dynoed it before and after and got a 12 or 8 HP gain. I dont remember which.

drakesdad · Jun 8, 2006

That's what I had heard before......just wasn't sure if it was true....thinking about changing it before going to the track tomorrow and keep running it afterwards of course...

1TallMF · Jun 8, 2006

This will probably turn into a lenghty debate, some people swear by synthetic, and others have reason to believe it will cause the engine to leak like a bastard, blah blah blah. Personally I think the advantages outweigh the disadvantages, but it kinda depends on the current condition of the engine. I use mobile1 10W30, and it just never gets dirty, I change it roughly every 4 - 5k km's, but I could probaby go alot longer on it. The previous owner told me its had synthetic oil used in it since new, and so far I have not noticed it burn any oil at all between changes. I am anxious to see the condition of the internal engine parts when I take 'er apart to do an H/C/I swap eventually.

Pennywise2 · Jun 8, 2006

Royal Purple 10W30 is some good stuff.
That is what I ran in my 92 GT and I couldn't be happier.

HISSIN50 · Jun 8, 2006

I agree with 1TMF. It might clean up seals and show you some leaks, but the bennies outweigh the downside.

I sometimes run synthetic in the summer (over 100* temps) just for the sake of a little extra protection with regard to viscosity and breakdown (5.0's heat the oil up pretty well).

I'd say do it if you like. If you want to get the most out of the oil, have a UOA done. You very well could have the additional OCI offset the price.

Good luck wtih the decision Will.

95WhiteVenom · Jun 9, 2006

I've ran mobil synthetic motor oil for over two years not and that is on a 188k motor that has never had the valve covers off.

Methodical · Jun 9, 2006

I ran Mobile 1 before I opened the engine and the internals were clean. No buildup or anything. As a matter of fact, the machine shop said that I did not need to have the engine cleaned. Never the less, I had them clean it anyway.

Now my rebuild engine runs Mobile 1 (after 2K mile of dyno oil) - 20w50 in the summer 10w30 in the winter.

Go for it. Go to Walmart and get the 5 quart jug - it's only about $21. The cheapest you'll find.

islandreamer · Jun 10, 2006

Oil

American Iron did a pretty good piece on this subject last summer. Most of the problems people have had with the leaks on older engines came fro years ago when Mobil1 only came in a 5 weight. Now a day you can get 20W50 from several suppliers. Mobil1 has the highest molybdenum amount of all the synthetics. The big advantage is the oil will not break down till almost 300 degrees unlike ash based or Pennsylvania based oil which breaks down in the low to mid 200's. On engine with a carburetor you will see the idle increase after a couple of hundred miles after the switch, not always.

wytstang · Jun 10, 2006

Runing 20w50 is a joke all your doing is putting a strain on your oil pump. Thicker does not equal better protection. My thought on synthetics well I'll let the oil lab report speak for itself http://theoildrop.server101.com/ubb/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=3;t=003511

HISSIN50 · Jun 10, 2006

Where are some numbers coming from? M1 doesnt make a 20W-50 that I know of (we are used to the good ol' 15W-50) and a PAO synthetic like that is good for about 400*F. A typical dino 10W-30 doesnt like to see more than about 250*F.

islandreamer · Jun 10, 2006

Yes Mobil1 does only make 15w50 but Valvoline makes 20w50 as well as others. I did not recommend any one to use 20w50 in their Stang just simply stated that it is avail. I do use it in my bikes and have for years. The figure low to mid 200’s for conventional oil comes from an article in American Iron Mag. Since they did extensive testing and could actually test the oils for breakdown during the testing process, I would have go with their results. They also showed signs at around 300 for synthetic, granted not total breakdown just signs.

Methodical · Jun 11, 2006

Yes it should be 15w-50 and not 20w-50 . I've been using it for years. When I tore my motor down at 125K everything inside was still fresh looking - cylinder walls, cam, crank, pistons, lifters, rods, main bearings etc. I had no oil burning (no oil issue at all). So I feel comfortable using it from MY EXPERIENCE and actually seeing the results inside my motor - not others.

Experience is the best teacher.

Methodical · Jun 11, 2006

wytstang said:
Runing 20w50 is a joke all your doing is putting a strain on your oil pump. Thicker does not equal better protection. My thought on synthetics well I'll let the oil lab report speak for itself http://theoildrop.server101.com/ubb/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=3;t=003511

Can you tell me what all of that means in the report other than stating what's in your oil? Correct me if I'm wrong but the report did not state that any grade of oil is better than another . Also, can you post independent test results (more than 1) that supports your opinion that 20w-50 puts a strain on the oil pump. I think and I'm sure you will agree that it's only fair to post information supporting both sides of your point of view and not just one. Please educate me because I not feeling what you are saying. I need facts and not opinions.

Peace

Methodical · Jun 14, 2006

wytstang said:
Runing 20w50 is a joke all your doing is putting a strain on your oil pump. Thicker does not equal better protection. My thought on synthetics well I'll let the oil lab report speak for itself http://theoildrop.server101.com/ubb/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=3;t=003511

Uhmmm. Nothing to support this claim - OK. I want facts/proof - where are they.

EXTRPR50 · Jun 14, 2006

Technical things aside, From the 83 GT I had to the current 95 GT, one advantage that I ve always found is that it smooths out my engine over the non-syn. stuff. Less vibration makes for a nicer ride.

wytstang · Jun 14, 2006

Do a searh on the link provided and the facts will come. Actually it's common sense thicker oil is harder to move (suck through) then a thinner oil. What going to reach the top end first 10w or 20w.

Pennywise2 · Jun 14, 2006

Mobil One is also some good Synthetic oil to use.

Methodical · Jun 14, 2006

wytstang said:
Do a searh on the link provided and the facts will come. Actually it's common sense thicker oil is harder to move (suck through) then a thinner oil. What going to reach the top end first 10w or 20w.

But the experts here says that synthetic oil (particularly Mobile 1) is thinner than conventional oils pound for pound. Besides, I shouldn't have to search for the facts, the presenter should present them to prove his/her point - now that's common sense and standard business. Pretend you were in a business meeting and you are trying to win a contract or the services of a business - you have to present the facts and not make them search for it in your presentation - put it out there.

I've used all sorts of oil from 5w-15 to straight 50w and I have never ever ever ever ever had any problems with my oil pumps (never change a one), especially with 50w in any of my cars. As a matter of fact my oil pressure drop a few pounds when I switched from 10w-40 (conventional oil) to the 15w-50 (synthetic), which leads me to believe what has been said about synthetics being a thinner oil. So much for strain on the pump theory. Now WyStang, I am not trying to start an argument with you, but I just want to show that one cannot make a blanket statement for the entire population. All cars/peeps and experiences are different. And that it is not what you say but how you say it.

Example: I'm sure you've notice when folks ask modification questions peeps say each car is different and will react differently to any given mod. No different with oils That's all I am trying to point out here. All cars and experiences are different.

Peace
We are cool.

wytstang · Jun 14, 2006

The good thing is we are not in a business meeting nor am I trying to sell anything. I'm mearling stating that thicker oil is harder to suck through then thinner oil going through a tube. I never said heavier weights would hurt anything just make things harder to happen like sqeezing through bearing were they need it or in the early mornings get pumped up top where most engine wear happens. Newer cars have tighter bearing clearances then the day of old, thats why Ford recomends 10w30 for our motors. The only way for anybody to know for sure whats going on in there motors is by sending in an oil sample, and see how high the metal contents are. *My* 130,000+ mile motor shows below average wear which is awesome, it's still brand new in fact. My comment wasn't meant to be a general or blanket statment just my personal opinion.
P.S
We cool

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