I am about to do a t5 conversion and have a few questions for anyone who has already done it. My 73 Q code vert currently has a 4 speed toploader, I have acquired a 1985 t5 (1352-018) along with an E6ZR-6394-AA bell housing.
I am trying to decide whether to keep the original bell housing and use the adapter plate (which one of the articles said can cause alignment problems) or use the T5 bellhousing and have the shop do the block and pivot modification (which means additional labor and there will be no rubber cover keeping road grit out of the opening).
From what I have read, if I use my original bellhousing I most likely will not need to shorten the drive shaft and there is a lot less labor, and I don't need to change the flywheel or starter and there is no question about the z-bar linkage working properly.
I am open to any input.
I also am questioning what shifter to use? An original 1985 Mustang T5 shifter along with a 12" Hurst 5388022 shifter stick or go for a short shifter like the pro 5.0 for the T5 (I can het a used one in near new condition for $100 that came on a 1992 mustang) or is there a better choice? I'd like the shift knob (a Hurst Tbar) to sit as close to the same height and position as my 4 speed Hurst currently sits as reasonably possible.
I will also swapping my 1973 Q code 351c for a rebuilt 1970 351c with a mild cam (based on the dyno results, I have no information about the cam at all) which dyno'd at around 340 hp at 5400 rpm before changing the manifold to the Blue Thunder ,
Finally, I want to keep the ram air, as my car is a '73 vert, my understanding is the motor mounts are about an inch lower than the 71 & 72. That being so, do I need to have the carb pad on the manifold cut down to lower the carb further before I have the manifold installed, or will it be close enough that can I squeeze it under the hood (possibly by cutting or compressing the rubber seal (I'd rather not spend the extra $150 to have the ,machine shop shave the pad down the 1/8-1/4" I might be able to get, but will if I have to). With my recent accident and the loss of 2 fingers I am unable to modify the air cleaner myself and I have no body local that I know with the welding skills to do it correctly (and I am sure the labor costs will be considerable (due to the accident I have been out from work and if I didn't already have 90% of the parts I would not be able to do this now, but I still need to budget carefully).
Thanks in advance for any input, if there are other concerns I should be considering, please tell me, if there are better ways to accomplish this I am all ears
Rich
I am trying to decide whether to keep the original bell housing and use the adapter plate (which one of the articles said can cause alignment problems) or use the T5 bellhousing and have the shop do the block and pivot modification (which means additional labor and there will be no rubber cover keeping road grit out of the opening).
From what I have read, if I use my original bellhousing I most likely will not need to shorten the drive shaft and there is a lot less labor, and I don't need to change the flywheel or starter and there is no question about the z-bar linkage working properly.
I am open to any input.
I also am questioning what shifter to use? An original 1985 Mustang T5 shifter along with a 12" Hurst 5388022 shifter stick or go for a short shifter like the pro 5.0 for the T5 (I can het a used one in near new condition for $100 that came on a 1992 mustang) or is there a better choice? I'd like the shift knob (a Hurst Tbar) to sit as close to the same height and position as my 4 speed Hurst currently sits as reasonably possible.
I will also swapping my 1973 Q code 351c for a rebuilt 1970 351c with a mild cam (based on the dyno results, I have no information about the cam at all) which dyno'd at around 340 hp at 5400 rpm before changing the manifold to the Blue Thunder ,
Finally, I want to keep the ram air, as my car is a '73 vert, my understanding is the motor mounts are about an inch lower than the 71 & 72. That being so, do I need to have the carb pad on the manifold cut down to lower the carb further before I have the manifold installed, or will it be close enough that can I squeeze it under the hood (possibly by cutting or compressing the rubber seal (I'd rather not spend the extra $150 to have the ,machine shop shave the pad down the 1/8-1/4" I might be able to get, but will if I have to). With my recent accident and the loss of 2 fingers I am unable to modify the air cleaner myself and I have no body local that I know with the welding skills to do it correctly (and I am sure the labor costs will be considerable (due to the accident I have been out from work and if I didn't already have 90% of the parts I would not be able to do this now, but I still need to budget carefully).
Thanks in advance for any input, if there are other concerns I should be considering, please tell me, if there are better ways to accomplish this I am all ears
Rich