Electrical TAB, TAD, and EGR solenoid removal questions.

[Vulpes5.0]

My car has the EGR removed (Intakes won't accommodate it) the smog pump and cats removed (previous owner) so I just went ahead and removed the thermactor piping along with it. I'm currently doing engine bay cleanup and paint, and since I have none of these provisions, I'm wondering what I can do to clean up the wiring in the passenger side shock tower considering most of it is of no use to me as far as i know. I'm under the impression drivability won't be affected by most of this being removed, but if possible, I'd like to make it so that no codes are thrown. I've already installed a block off plate for the EGR as well as the electrical connection that negates that code. I understand that i can cap off vacuum going to almost everything near the shock tower, save for A/C and manifold vacuum, etc, that's fine.

What can i do to remove the solenoids themselves and tie off connections so I don't get a code for all three of those? Someone mentioned a 3W 75 ohm resistor, but I'm not sure which connections will accept that resistor to not throw a code. all three of those?

While not necessary, I'm also considering removing the carbon canister. I know this isn't really something you should do, but it'll clean things up in the bay, my carbon canister is old and doesn't help much anymore, beat up, and dirty, and the vacuum lines crumble too. I don't feel like paying extra to keep something arguably ugly in engine bay. What should I do to keep the electrical connection that's mounted inline with he vacuum lines not throwing a code as well?

Just looking to simplify electrical and vacuum and make everything look nice and tidy.
My car is a 1987 Mustang GT with the 5.0, just in case anything is different between the years.

 

[jrichker]

I am the guy who came up that that idea. I have the original word document I created for Stangnet to prove it too.
However, the truth is that it is a total waste of time and money. The car will not run any better and the 81, 82, 44, and 94 codes will not set the Check Engine Light.

The EGR resistor eliminator pack just lies to the computer; it supplies some voltage to make the computer think it is working. The end result is that the cruse mixture runs lean and there is a potential for engine ping and possible engine damage.
EGR reduces combustion temperature, and octane requirements in cruse mode. The addition of exhaust gas drops combustion temperature, increases gas mileage and reduces the tendency of the engine to ping. It can also reduce HC emissions by reducing fuel consumption.Some engines will develop a part throttle ping because the EGR is not present or working. The EGR closes when you go WOT (wide open throttle), so it has no effect on full throttle performance.

If you are going to remove the smog equipment (Cats, smog pump, EGR, etc.) plan to have a custom chip burned to eliminate the trouble codes and possible limp mode operation associated with them.


Removing the pollution control equipment from a 5.0 Mustang is a bad idea. All you have accomplished is to make the computer mad and spit codes. The pollution control equipment all shuts off at wide open throttle, so the HP losses from it on the car are 2-5 HP. The catalytic converters may soak a few more HP than that. None of the pollution control equipment reduces the HP enough to cost you a race in anything but professional drag strip competition. I seriously doubt that you will be in the final runoff on “Pinks”, so leave the smog equipment in place and make sure it is working correctly.

Know what does what before removing it. Remove or disable the wrong thing and the computer sets the check engine light and runs in "limp mode". Limp mode means reduced power and fuel economy.

If you removed the smog pump and still have catalytic converters, they will ultimately clog and fail.

Here's a book that will get you started with how the Ford electronic engine control or "computer" works.

Ford Fuel Injection & Electronic Engine Control 1988-1993 by James Probst :ISBN 0-8376-0301-3.

It's about $20-$45 from Borders.com see http://www.amazon.com/ . Select books and then select search. Use the ISBN number (without dashes or spaces) to do a search

Use the ISBN number and your local library can get you a loaner copy for free. Only thing is you are limited to keeping the book for two weeks. It is very good, and I found it to be very helpful.

Remove any of the equipment and you will not pass a full smog check, cannot title the car in an area that does smog checks and have broken several federal laws. Granted that the Feds are short on people to check cars, but it is still Federal law.

"Why should I leave the smog equipment on if I live in an area that doesn't do smog inspections?"
What's good sauce for the goose is good sauce for the gander. I lived in Florida and had two smog pumps fail on two different 89 5.0 Mustangs. I replaced both of them, even though there was no emissions inspection. Why?

1.) It a federal law that requires emissions equipment to be in place and functional. I have no intention of breaking a law designed to protect my general health and wellbeing, even if I don't like it. I have respect for the rights and wellbeing of other people, and am not one of those whose nature is rebellion.

2.) Whatever imaginary "improvements" someone may strive for, there is very little evidence that the results of removing emissions results in a better car. I can achieve excellent results in performance with all the smog equipment in place and working properly. Maybe you can't, but that is no excuse for removing the emissions equipment. Look at the new 5.0 Mustangs – 281 cubic inches and 400+ flywheel HP with full emissions equipment with no aftermarket parts. That tells me that it is possible on a mass production car. It also shows that the guys that designed the engine knew what they were doing to achieve that goal.

3.) I like to breathe clean air, and working emissions equipment helps me do my part to make that possible. Los Angeles has breathable air even with millions of cars: Beijing, the capitol of China has some of the worst air in the world. Why – no emissions requirements for cars.

I don’t want to live where the air looks like this…

See http://www.taipeitimes.com/News/feat/archives/2014/01/15/2003581312

 

[Vulpes5.0]

I am the guy who came up that that idea. I have the original word document I created for Stangnet to prove it too.
However, the truth is that it is a total waste of time and money. The car will not run any better and the 81, 82, 44, and 94 codes will not set the Check Engine Light.

The EGR resistor eliminator pack just lies to the computer; it supplies some voltage to make the computer think it is working. The end result is that the cruse mixture runs lean and there is a potential for engine ping and possible engine damage.
EGR reduces combustion temperature, and octane requirements in cruse mode. The addition of exhaust gas drops combustion temperature, increases gas mileage and reduces the tendency of the engine to ping. It can also reduce HC emissions by reducing fuel consumption.Some engines will develop a part throttle ping because the EGR is not present or working. The EGR closes when you go WOT (wide open throttle), so it has no effect on full throttle performance.

If you are going to remove the smog equipment (Cats, smog pump, EGR, etc.) plan to have a custom chip burned to eliminate the trouble codes and possible limp mode operation associated with them.


Removing the pollution control equipment from a 5.0 Mustang is a bad idea. All you have accomplished is to make the computer mad and spit codes. The pollution control equipment all shuts off at wide open throttle, so the HP losses from it on the car are 2-5 HP. The catalytic converters may soak a few more HP than that. None of the pollution control equipment reduces the HP enough to cost you a race in anything but professional drag strip competition. I seriously doubt that you will be in the final runoff on “Pinks”, so leave the smog equipment in place and make sure it is working correctly.

Know what does what before removing it. Remove or disable the wrong thing and the computer sets the check engine light and runs in "limp mode". Limp mode means reduced power and fuel economy.

If you removed the smog pump and still have catalytic converters, they will ultimately clog and fail.

Here's a book that will get you started with how the Ford electronic engine control or "computer" works.

Ford Fuel Injection & Electronic Engine Control 1988-1993 by James Probst :ISBN 0-8376-0301-3.

It's about $20-$45 from Borders.com see http://www.amazon.com/ . Select books and then select search. Use the ISBN number (without dashes or spaces) to do a search

Use the ISBN number and your local library can get you a loaner copy for free. Only thing is you are limited to keeping the book for two weeks. It is very good, and I found it to be very helpful.

Remove any of the equipment and you will not pass a full smog check, cannot title the car in an area that does smog checks and have broken several federal laws. Granted that the Feds are short on people to check cars, but it is still Federal law.

"Why should I leave the smog equipment on if I live in an area that doesn't do smog inspections?"
What's good sauce for the goose is good sauce for the gander. I lived in Florida and had two smog pumps fail on two different 89 5.0 Mustangs. I replaced both of them, even though there was no emissions inspection. Why?

1.) It a federal law that requires emissions equipment to be in place and functional. I have no intention of breaking a law designed to protect my general health and wellbeing, even if I don't like it. I have respect for the rights and wellbeing of other people, and am not one of those whose nature is rebellion.

2.) Whatever imaginary "improvements" someone may strive for, there is very little evidence that the results of removing emissions results in a better car. I can achieve excellent results in performance with all the smog equipment in place and working properly. Maybe you can't, but that is no excuse for removing the emissions equipment. Look at the new 5.0 Mustangs – 281 cubic inches and 400+ flywheel HP with full emissions equipment with no aftermarket parts. That tells me that it is possible on a mass production car. It also shows that the guys that designed the engine knew what they were doing to achieve that goal.

3.) I like to breathe clean air, and working emissions equipment helps me do my part to make that possible. Los Angeles has breathable air even with millions of cars: Beijing, the capitol of China has some of the worst air in the world. Why – no emissions requirements for cars.

I don’t want to live where the air looks like this…

See http://www.taipeitimes.com/News/feat/archives/2014/01/15/2003581312

Trust me, I have nothing against emissions at all. It's just been removed before me, and the explorer intake i have isn't even drilled for internal EGR. Only working with what I have and nothing more. If I had the extra money to work with I might do these things, but I don't sadly.