taurus fan wiring

You really need to at least have a heavy duty relay for this (not a 30/40 SPST/SPDT cheapie with slip-fit terminals).

Do NOT try to run all the power through a switch.

It would be a good idea to add a controller for a little peace of mind (in case you forget to flip the switch). You can also use a switch with the relay and controller for duplicity.

Good luck.

You can call around to try and find the relay but you will probably have to order it.

I'd be careful about using any HD relay because many are not rated for a continuous duty cycle and/or have the tractability that this relay does.

Good luck.

Is there 12V going into your toggle switch?

As for leaving it wired on contantly (when the car is on), it's up to you. It shortens the life of the fan, relay and is tough on the charging system.

Good luck.

You'll probably smoke a 30 amp fuse during the first time you try to start the fan.

A Maxi-fuse or fusible link are better alternatives. The fan draw can spike to near 100 amps during start-up, so you need something with a slow burn rate to withstand that surge without blowing.

Stereo stores carry the fuses, links and wires you'll need

If you choose to use fusible link, since you used 10 AWG for the fan's power supply, 14 AWG would suffice for the fusible link. All decent parts stores will sell fusible link (in case you have a tough time finding a Maxi fuse set-up locally).

If using a Maxi fuse, check what Ford did for the Taurus fan circuit in the Taurus itself. I would guess they used something close to a 60 amp fuse (which is also what 94-95 Mustangs use and the fans are comparable).

Good luck.

If you don't have a high current alternator, you can forget about using an electric fan. The stock 65 amp alternator on 86-93 Model Mustangs isn't big enough to run the fan and the rest of the car.

3G 130 amp alternator installation instructions: Stangnet 3G install sticky 3G Alternator Install: A How To - Mustang Forums at StangNet


The 30 amp fuse is suitable for use with 10 gauge wiring: do not oversize the fuse rating since you risk an electrical fire.]

Wire size current table:
18 gauge wire = 5-8 amps
16 gauge wire = 10-12 amps
14 gauge wire = 15-17 amps
12 gauge wire = 20-25 amps
10 gauge wire = 30-40 amps
8 gauge wire = 50-60 amps.


If you are good with electrical stuff (90% of the people here aren't), build your own controller. The numbers on the diagram (#86, #87, etc) refer to the numbers on the bottom of a typical automotive relay.

The connections for the recommended Bosh relay will probably be identified differently.
Note that the thermostat switch in the diagram isn’t really suited for the job. You’ll have to do a Google search and find your own.

This version of the fan controller will continue to run the fan after the ignition switch is turned off, just like most new cars. The notes about the Bosh relay, wire size and fuse ratings still apply.




To allow the ignition switch to control the fan so that it does not run when the ignition is off, connect the relay contact #86 to the red/green wire on the ignition coil or to the red/yellow wire on the coolant level sensor.




Alternate placement for a temp gauge sender or temp switch/temp sensor for an electric fan. Use the heater feed that comes off the intake manifold. Cut the rubber hose that connects the manifold water feed to the heater and splice in a tee adapter for the temp gauge sender. Be sure to use the same water feed line as the ECT sensor. That way you will get the most accurate temp readings.

Tee adapter info:
Make a pilgrimage to your local hardware or home supply center and get some copper pipe and a tee that fits the temp gauge sender. Solder two pieces of copper pipe onto a copper pipe tee with threads in the tee part. Find the correct brass fitting to match the temp sender threads to the tee fitting.