Progress Thread The "grátis" 1966 Coupe - final sheet metal repairs

#321
I also made a purchase for another soon-to-be project on this car. Turns out the Ford tooling tail panels are out of production since the tooling is too worn out to produce any more. NPD still has them in stock and is keeping them listed until they run out. Glad I found out before they were all gone.
 

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#324
Turns out the plug welds didn’t take because the inner rocker is 14 gauge while the outer (old and new) is 18 gauge. Turned up the heat and wire feed and got everything together.

Brace is now off and I’m putting in the floor for fitting. Pictures later this evening.
 
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#325
Some pictures of the ground down welds on the rocker. Not pretty, but it's holding together. There were four more holes on the inner rocker that were used to push out the dents in the old outer rocker. I welded those up as well.





This is what victory looks like. The rear passenger area will need some extra attention, though. I'm going to just screw it down and reassess once it's in place and ready to weld.

Just sitting in place - passenger side:


Driver's side:


Rear driver's side:


Rear passenger side:


Overall, I'm very happy with this result. I've already screwed down some of the outer edges. I'm not putting a screw through every hole since there are way too many. Only about every fifth one or so. Prep will continue tomorrow. I'm hoping to get it welded in completely by the end of the week.
 
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#329
Since I have a tendency to take the more difficult route to repairs owing to my general lack of experience, I need some advice from @horse sence and @Davedacarpainter

How would you all fix the fitment on the rear passenger area of the floor pan? I was planning to make a cut like the red line in the picture below, move it out to meet the wheelhouse and rocker, and then fill the remaining gap. Would either of you have a better or easier method for this fix?

 
#330
I was also thinking that this fitment issue back here may be further results from the off roading adventure. I think once we move I'd like to have this car put on a frame machine and checked and possibly fixed if possible. I'm betting there will otherwise be fitment issues once I get to the point of installing new suspension.
 
#332
Better, but not 100%. I can only pull it so far before it starts pulling another section of the wheel house away from the floor pan. I’ve partially inserted two screws into the inner rocker, but they seem to only be bending the flange rather than just pulling it together. Thoughts?

 
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#333
Used more sheet metal screws. I think I’m satisfied. I’ll have a couple small areas to patch, but I can live with it. Of course I cut a little too much from the transition pan. Nothing I can’t fix, though.

 
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#334
This is the passenger side of the hump where it meets the transition pan. I think I might have to relief cut this area. The rest of the pan is pretty much flush. The gap underneath the new pan is wide enough for a finger.


 
#335
If I do relief cut it, would it be better to cut the transition pan or the floor pan? I would think it would be better to cut the transition pan since the floor pan will already be under tension since it’s stretched in place. I wouldn’t want to cause a situation where I have a growing stress crack in the floor pan.
 
#338
02 281 GT said:
Other than the area at the rear transition pan, the floor pan is ready to weld.

Made myself some floor clamps a la @horse sence



Click to expand...
I believe you’re going to have more spot welds on your pan than i did on mine John.

Honestly, I would relief cut the new floor pan. The transition pan is original. The Chinese floor pan might be just a hair off like mine was at the firewall/transmission hump. Then depending how large the relief is, you could patch panel it or just weld up the difference.

Mind you, I’m a painter. @horse sence might know better than I.

As for that gap? If it’s driving you nuts, weld in a small patch, otherwise just fill it with seam sealer.
 
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#339
02 281 GT said:
This is the passenger side of the hump where it meets the transition pan. I think I might have to relief cut this area. The rest of the pan is pretty much flush. The gap underneath the new pan is wide enough for a finger.


Click to expand...
Try putting a screw right in the corner first ,run it down slow so it doesnt strip and it will tighten up most of that
 
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#340
horse sence said:
Try putting a screw right in the corner first ,run it down slow so it doesnt strip and it will tighten up most of that
Click to expand...
I actually did try that in one spot but didn't get far before it stripped. That area is pretty tight already. I think the cut is probably what I'm going to have to do.

I went overboard with the punch. I probably have double the welds I need. I'll probably go ahead and cut the pan tomorrow, weld everything else in, then worry about patching the cut area.

Are you talking about just filling the gap by the wheelhouses with seam sealer? If that's a fine way to go, I'm down with that.
 
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