Thanks, Dave. It’s nice to get praise from the earliest of early risers!Good job John.
Your boy looks like you (of course now you’ll tell me that’s a neighbors kid......).
I believe you’re going to have more spot welds on your pan than i did on mine John.Other than the area at the rear transition pan, the floor pan is ready to weld.
Made myself some floor clamps a la @horse sence
Try putting a screw right in the corner first ,run it down slow so it doesnt strip and it will tighten up most of thatThis is the passenger side of the hump where it meets the transition pan. I think I might have to relief cut this area. The rest of the pan is pretty much flush. The gap underneath the new pan is wide enough for a finger.
I actually did try that in one spot but didn't get far before it stripped. That area is pretty tight already. I think the cut is probably what I'm going to have to do.Try putting a screw right in the corner first ,run it down slow so it doesnt strip and it will tighten up most of that
I went overboard with the punch. I probably have double the welds I need. I'll probably go ahead and cut the pan tomorrow, weld everything else in, then worry about patching the cut area.I believe you’re going to have more spot welds on your pan than i did on mine John.
Honestly, I would relief cut the new floor pan. The transition pan is original. The Chinese floor pan might be just a hair off like mine was at the firewall/transmission hump. Then depending how large the relief is, you could patch panel it or just weld up the difference.
Mind you, I’m a painter. @horse sence might know better than I.
As for that gap? If it’s driving you nuts, weld in a small patch, otherwise just fill it with seam sealer.
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