thermerstat??

The stat rating depends upon how hot the car actually runs. Some guys with a 180* stat run at 185*F and no more. Other guys in the same conditions can run at 220 with that same stat. So tailor the stat rating to what your car does (this mainly applies to 180 and 195 stats, as 160 really is normally too cold - as mentioned).

For the O2 gauge - you can put a toggle switch on the gauge so you can switch between banks and read what each does.

Good luck.
 
HISSIN50 said:
For the O2 gauge - you can put a toggle switch on the gauge so you can switch between banks and read what each does.

Good luck.

Noooooooo.. can't do that. UNLESS:

You have something else to power the heating element on both sensors. The heaters must be powered when installed in a running motor or they won't last a month.

I'm sure Hiss will have caught that by the time I finish this post. :hail2:

Edit: Oh wait... we're talking about a gauge on a stock narrow band sensor aren't we? Disregard this post.
 
Daggar said:
Noooooooo.. can't do that. UNLESS:

You have something else to power the heating element on both sensors. The heaters must be powered when installed in a running motor or they won't last a month.

I'm sure Hiss will have caught that by the time I finish this post. :hail2:

Edit: Oh wait... we're talking about a gauge on a stock narrow band sensor aren't we? Disregard this post.


This is not true. You can easily wire up both of the O2 sensor's signal wires to a DPST switch and toggle between which sensor you want to read---- but with that said, they'll both more or less read the same and if its one of those red-yellow-green autometer O2 sensor guages, its nothing more than a rice boy light flasher anyways.
 
st5150 said:
This is not true. You can easily wire up both of the O2 sensor's signal wires to a DPST switch and toggle between which sensor you want to read---- but with that said, they'll both more or less read the same and if its one of those red-yellow-green autometer O2 sensor guages, its nothing more than a rice boy light flasher anyways.

I think you missed the meaning of the post (as I did on Hissin's post). It was meant toward a wideband (whos heater is normally powered by the reader which is normally capable of powering just one heating element at a time). Leaving a wideband sensor unheated in a running exhaust will kill it in no time.

I get what you're saying though. Initially, I missed seeing that were talking about stock sensors (which are already powered).