timing chain cover seal replacement, with timm cover on??

BadAndy · Dec 31, 2006

does the front timming chain cover seal behind the harmonic bal come out from the front?? so i do-not have to remove the timming chain cover to replace it??[crank seal]

txstang84 · Dec 31, 2006

ummm, yea it comes out from the front, and you press it in from the front, but it would be a little easier with the timing cover off...can you replace it with the cover on the engine? Yes...just pry it out, and tap the new one in with either a dead blow hammer or soft mallet. The biggest risk you run is dropping pieces of the seal (little metal coil seal) into the pan, or possibly screwing up the seal upon installation.

Honestly, I'd probably pull the cover to replace it though...

BadAndy · Dec 31, 2006

txstang84 said:
ummm, yea it comes out from the front, and you press it in from the front, but it would be a little easier with the timing cover off...can you replace it with the cover on the engine? Yes...just pry it out, and tap the new one in with either a dead blow hammer or soft mallet. The biggest risk you run is dropping pieces of the seal (little metal coil seal) into the pan, or possibly screwing up the seal upon installation.

Honestly, I'd probably pull the cover to replace it though...

the problem is if you dont remove the oil pan then where the timming chain cover goes into the front of the oil pan is a pain to get it right so it [might seal], thats why i thought maybe just pop the seal out ,if i can

txstang84 · Dec 31, 2006

It's not that bad to drop back into the pan seal, it's not like a chevy where there's a metal lip on the back side of the timing cover which will hang on the pan. The rubber seal protrudes past it. I even had oil pan studs, and mine came right out with no issues. If you buy a new timing cover seal and gasket kit from fel-pro available at any parts store, it comes with a new oil pan seal, and corner pieces of oil pan gasket. I've used them on my car twice before for cam changes, and it worked very well...no leakage.

71swing · Dec 31, 2006

I just replaced my seal yesterday, but my motor is out of the car. It could be a pain with the motor in the car because my seal wasn't the easiest thing to get out.

With the timing cover removed I had to use a socket the same size as the seal and hammer it out from the back side.

The seal going back in was very easy going.

SPEEDYLIFSAVR · Dec 31, 2006

If you already have all the accessories off and all you have left to remove is the timing cover then I'd say remove it and just buy the Felpro kit like txstang84 mentioned . I've used the same kit and its pretty user friendly Part # TCS 45449 . Otherwise leave it on and use a chisel and work your way around the lip carefully and tap the chisel with a hammer and work it out . Use a large socket the same diameter as the seal to tap it in place .

Good luck!

BadAndy · Dec 31, 2006

I think im going to go for it in the morning, I think i will chisel it out, it has a lip on the seal so that should help, i will work around the lip , till i get it to pop out

jrichker · Dec 31, 2006

I did it a few weeks ago. Once the balancer was off I used a pair of Visegrips to grab the flange lip of the seal. I screwed the adjustment on the Visegrips as tight as it could get it and still be able to clamp the jaws shut. I clamped the Visegrips on with the release handle facing the radiator and rocked the backside of the Visegrips against the timing cover. A short prayer for divine intervention and a big tug resulted in the seal prying loose on one side. Some more pressure on the Visegrips resulted in the seal prying loose. Since the balancer had spun and was in two pieces, I used the center part of the old balancer to drive the new seal in place. Coat the seal's metal shell with a little bit of blue silicone for leak protection.

BadAndy · Dec 31, 2006

jrichker said:
I did it a few weeks ago. Once the balancer was off I used a pair of Visegrips to grab the flange lip of the seal. I screwed the adjustment on the Visegrips as tight as it could get it and still be able to clamp the jaws shut. I clamped the Visegrips on with the release handle facing the radiator and rocked the backside of the Visegrips against the timing cover. A short prayer for divine intervention and a big tug resulted in the seal prying loose on one side. Some more pressure on the Visegrips resulted in the seal prying loose. Since the balancer had spun and was in two pieces, I used the center part of the old balancer to drive the new seal in place. Coat the seal's metal shell with a little bit of blue silicone for leak protection.

thank you soooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooo much!!!!!!!!!!

redneck15431 · Jan 1, 2007

Just be careful with that timing cover! I thought I f'ed mine up when I was replacing that seal a few weeks ago. I called my local ford dealership and i almost puked when they told me the price of a new one...It was somewhere around $350 I believe just for that piece of aluminum But it turns out that I just looked at it wrong and I was pounding on the edges of the seal instead and it was fine...lol

I used a little bit of gojo around where the seal meets the crank so it didnt tear it all to hell and back.

Good luck!

txstang84 · Jan 1, 2007

oof! $350 for a timing cover?? I bought one new through parts wholesalers for about $68...I've heard of price gouging, but damn!

timing chain cover seal replacement, with timm cover on??

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