Timing retards with the SPOUT out...

onebad7up

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Jun 21, 2004

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May 14, 2007

#1

• May 14, 2007

• #1

When I take the SPOUT out and rev the motor up the timing retards. It will go from 10* before TDC to 10* after TDC. I am thinking the wiring is jacked because a bunch of wires are spliced. I swapped dizzies so I dont think it is a bad TFI or PIP. What wires could do this?

 

onebad7up

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May 15, 2007

#2

• May 15, 2007

• #2

Anyone?

 

jrichker

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#3

• May 15, 2007

• #3

The SPOUT advances the timing when it is in. The timing drops back to where it was set when the SPOUT is removed. You set the base timing with the SPOUT out. When you put it back in, the computer advances the timing according to the sensor input and computer spark advance tables.

If you are seeing retarded timing, 10 degrees ATDC with the SPOUT out, someone manually set the timing there.

 

HISSIN50

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#4

• May 15, 2007

• #4

I'm not sure I even followed you. Given the splices in the wiring, can you check SPOUT voltage with the SPOUT in and out? As I recall, SPOUT out voltage is around 1/2 battery voltage and it does not change with RPM IIRC.

With the SPOUT installed, it goes to around 2/3 battery voltage.

Good luck.

 

onebad7up

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May 15, 2007

#5

• May 15, 2007

• #5

When I pull the SPOUT out the timing is set at 10*. Then when I start to rev it up with the SPOUT out the timing begins to fall off. It will retard 20*.

I have checked the continuity of all the wires to the TFI and they were all good. I tried a new computer just now and it did not make any difference.

What could cause the timing to retard when the SPOUT is diconnected?

 

HISSIN50

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#6

• May 15, 2007

• #6

That's why I'd check voltage. With the SPOUT out, I don't believe you will see a change in voltage per RPM no matter what (since the puter is disconnected from the equation).

With all the wiring changes that were made (from the sound of it), all bets are off.

Good luck.

 

onebad7up

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May 15, 2007

#7

• May 15, 2007

• #7

If the voltage at the SPOUT does what you say, then what could be causing the timing to retard?

 

HISSIN50

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#8

• May 15, 2007

• #8

As I see it, if timing changes with the SPOUT connector removed, something is still controlling the ignition advance (bad wiring, etc being the cause). That's why I'd just start checking voltages to see if anything jumps out.

There's no way of knowing what someone did to your car to even try to guess or predict what will happen. I only posted how I myself would start off trying to diagnose it. If it's doing what you say, I don't see how SPOUT voltage will act as it's supposed to.

Good luck.

 

onebad7up

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May 16, 2007

#9

• May 16, 2007

• #9

With the SPOUT in:

6.9V at idle but dropped to 6.7 while revving the engine

With SPOUT out:

6.43 at idle and dropped to 6.37 while revving the engine



I made these measurements by probing into the SPOUT wire right at the TFI.

What does this mean?

 

onebad7up

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May 16, 2007

#10

• May 16, 2007

• #10

The problem is fixed.

The wire in the TFI that has power when the car starts was receiving power even after the car started. I disconnected it and now the timing is staying at 10* with the spout out.

 

HISSIN50

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#11

• May 16, 2007

• #11

EDit: NM, you got it fixed. Nice work!

 

onebad7up

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May 16, 2007

#12

• May 16, 2007

• #12

I just checked all the wires on my TFI from the 5.0 and compared them to my ranger.

 

HISSIN50

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#13

• May 16, 2007

• #13

It sounds like you have a push-start TFI. In the post I deleted I was getting there (I actually thought you had a CCD TFI, but finally asked for clarification).

Again, nicely fixed.

 

M

Mhuck

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Aug 27, 2007

#14

• Aug 27, 2007

• #14

I too have this issue, however, the wire that was hot all of the time in Onebad7up's situation is functioning normal in my situation.

The worst part is, I have this engine in a different car with all new wiring and the problem followed the engine. The MAF and all other sensors were also transfered with the engine. I have tried 3 different distributors, 3 different coils, different plugs, wires, cap, rotor. I have tried everything and have had the problem for 2 years. I dont know what else to try.

The problem is the same is onebad7up's. Pull the spout out, set timing to 10 degrees, leave spout out and rev the engine a little and the timing drops to 0. Let id idle and it will slowly come back to 10 degrees. I have tested the balancer to ensure that its not spinning bu putting a line across the face. Anyone have any suggestions?

 

HISSIN50

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#15

• Aug 27, 2007

• #15

Mhuck said:

I too have this issue, however, the wire that was hot all of the time in Onebad7up's situation is functioning normal in my situation.

The worst part is, I have this engine in a different car with all new wiring and the problem followed the engine. The MAF and all other sensors were also transfered with the engine. I have tried 3 different distributors, 3 different coils, different plugs, wires, cap, rotor. I have tried everything and have had the problem for 2 years. I dont know what else to try.

The problem is the same is onebad7up's. Pull the spout out, set timing to 10 degrees, leave spout out and rev the engine a little and the timing drops to 0. Let id idle and it will slowly come back to 10 degrees. I have tested the balancer to ensure that its not spinning bu putting a line across the face. Anyone have any suggestions?

Click to expand...

Was a new computer ever tried?

Guero had a similar issue IIRC. He's now going carb. But I think he might have had a spare computer to try. I dont know for sure if he did or it helped.

You might want to touch base with him.

Good luck.