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Tips for launching on M/T E.T. Streets?

  • Thread starter Thread starter jaymac
  • Start date Start date May 5, 2005

jaymac

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Feb 18, 2004
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Northern Mass
May 5, 2005
#1
  • May 5, 2005
  • #1
I'm going to the track for the first time on Friday night, and a buddy of mine is loaning me his Mickey ET Streets. I've never been down a track before, let alone used Drag Radials.
So, what's the skinny on launching w/ DR's? Burnout in the waterbox? For how long?
Foot-brake it? Or just mash it from idle?
Any input would be appreciated; my mods are in my sig.
Thanks,
J
 

Daniel50

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Mar 30, 2005
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Discovery Bay, CA
May 5, 2005
#2
  • May 5, 2005
  • #2
with the dr's your going to want to use the waterbox and do a nice burnout. hold for about 7 to 10 sec and make sure they are really sticky. then i would rev up to about 3000k rpms and let it go.
 

notchback

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St Clair Shores MI
May 5, 2005
#3
  • May 5, 2005
  • #3
always foot brake a burnout...you'll never heat them enuff just standing on it

burn for about 3-5 seconds once you see smoke at 4k in 2nd gear , then ease off the brake til it hooks and plants you in the seat...make sure your out of the water

don't do a dry hop

launch on the last amber
 

jaymac

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May 5, 2005
#4
  • May 5, 2005
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notchback said:
make sure your out of the water

don't do a dry hop
Click to expand...
You'll have to pardon my ignorance: what's a dry hop?
Should I foot-brake the launch too? Or just mash it from idle?
Lastly: So I'm starting the burnout in the waterbox, then driving out of the waterbox during the burnout until the tires catch?
 

Fink

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Sep 23, 2003
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Melrose MA
May 5, 2005
#5
  • May 5, 2005
  • #5
Dry Hop means after you do your burn out dont test launch the to see if they are sticky, if you do it will take some bite out of the tires. Dont burn out in the water box. Roll Threw it and do your burn out just after it.

You dont want to foot brake a Launch. Stop the car when the last set of bulbs are lit you want to have the car reved up a bit. When you see the 3rd amber light flash go. It will take a few practice runs to get it right.
 

ninjacoupe

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Jul 6, 2003
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NY
May 5, 2005
#6
  • May 5, 2005
  • #6
For the launch you'll want to be on the throttle just enough to be off Idle but not enough that the suspension gets loaded. Assuming its an auto
 

90NotchBack

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Feb 15, 2004
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Loxahatchee/Pembroke Pines, FL
May 5, 2005
#7
  • May 5, 2005
  • #7
This is how I do burnout with D/R
http://s36.yousendit.com/d.aspx?id=2UFT8IHT17DAM2ZUVM51P0EX97

I do it the same with slicks
http://s7.yousendit.com/d.aspx?id=0SULKLFAZM5I60D6SJNH7ATZMA
 

cleanLX

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Jan 17, 2001
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May 5, 2005
#8
  • May 5, 2005
  • #8
unless you are running skinnies, drive around the water box and back in.
pull ahead to the damp area and proceed with your burnout.
driving thru with full sized street tires up front will track water up to the line, and across it...

BTW, Et Streets are not radials.
 

88stangmangt

Active Member
Nov 25, 2003
2,332
1
48
Stafford,VA
May 5, 2005
#9
  • May 5, 2005
  • #9
kinda tricky to burn out and hold the break at the same time before she takes off. but then again it prob doesnt hook up for **** in the water anyway......
 

ninjacoupe

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#10
  • May 5, 2005
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Just to clarify..do not do your burnout in the waterbox. All this will do is soak your wheelwells and the track, get your tires into the water box and turn them over once..a quick blip then pull up out of the box and do your burnout. Then stage rev up a little and mash it. If it bogs next time rev a little higher or add some air pressure. Play till you get the right mix. Start around 15psi..if they are not screwed to the rims I would not go much lower than 12..if the tires are pinned to the rims then you could go lower, though at your power level with an auto you should not need too. If its too sloppy upstairs or you are scared keep em @ 20-25psi and work down from there.
 

jaymac

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Northern Mass
May 6, 2005
#11
  • May 6, 2005
  • #11
Thanks for all the tips!
I think I have the general jist of it...

Clean LX - "ET Streets are not radials". Are they at least DOT approved? That's the important part for track rules.

The car is an auto, so I'm assuming light enough brake pressure to raise the RPM's slightly (roughly how high?)once I stage, then mash it on the 3rd amber?

If the car starts to pull forward on my burnout, should I stop? Does that mean they're warm enough?
 

7000rpmisheaven

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Mar 1, 2002
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May 6, 2005
#12
  • May 6, 2005
  • #12
Hold the break to keep the car from moving while you do your burnout. When you're done doing your burn out let up off the break really slowly. The car will start to creep forward as the tires catch more. Right when the tires start to really catch you'll want to get out of the gas.

With the questions you're asking I would reccomend that you practice this stuff somewhere before you go up to the track. Find a backroad somewhere and practice doing burnouts so that you're more comfortable at the track. Anyone can make the the tires spins but it usually takes a little practice to look like you know what you're doing.
 

jaymac

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May 6, 2005
#13
  • May 6, 2005
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Burnouts in general I'm comfortable with, it's just the track surface, waterbox, and ET Streets I'm unfamiliar with, so unless I can find those on a backroad, I guess I'll have to cut my teeth at the starting line!!
 

notchback

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#14
  • May 6, 2005
  • #14
cleanLX said:
Et Streets are not radials.
Click to expand...

if you buy the "et street radials" they are radials...

and if they are regular et streets they are still dot approved...so are hoosier quick time, quick time pro's, mt sportsman pro's, m&h racemasters, mc reary roadstars, hoosier dirt bozz, can't think of the others..but thats about it.

if it has even 1 line in it for "tread" it's dot approved

yeah, dry hop is a test for traction...the first launch is always the best....don't waste it on a dry hop

and yes, foot brake the burnout , after you just roll through the water box, and your on wet pavement.

then hit it hard and fast 4k rpm

start in 2nd..is it a 5-speed? auto stay in first

then after the smoke starts to roll...count to about 3-5 seconds...let it ease forward...when the tires are good it'll hook and almost stall...put you back in the seat.

if it never does that...they are wet...and you need to do another burnout...otherwise stage and do it
 

jaymac

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May 6, 2005
#15
  • May 6, 2005
  • #15
NOTCHBACK, YOU"RE THE MAN.
Thanks for the thorough reply! That should do it!
 

notchback

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#16
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no probs...have fun

post some times too when you run it.

now w/ staging...you can stage shallow or deep

when you hit the "pre-stage" light...you can can just barely roll another couple inches til the "staged" light goes up

that is deep staging..you actually have about 4 inches that you can travel b4 you trip the light for your reaction time.

or you can pull as far forward as you can w/out the stage light going off.

if it goes off just back up a bit

i usually stage deep, cuz you can launch harder and tend to redlight less...

and w/ tire pressure , if the tires are tubed..you can run 12 psi, if they are not, i would go about 15

if they are et radials, keep higher pressure..like 25 to start maybe and go down from there...i've never used drag radials, but even though guys drop pressure, the manufactureers claim they run best at full psi

anyway...have fun bro...you'll be hooked and the first dragstrip trip you never forget..
 

rsw007

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Jul 7, 2004
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Lexington,SC
May 6, 2005
#17
  • May 6, 2005
  • #17
i footbrake launch from 1200rpms and flash the converter.its good for 1.69 uot of my aod.
 

cleanLX

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Jan 17, 2001
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May 7, 2005
#18
  • May 7, 2005
  • #18
notchback said:
no probs...have fun

post some times too when you run it.

now w/ staging...you can stage shallow or deep

when you hit the "pre-stage" light...you can can just barely roll another couple inches til the "staged" light goes up

that is deep staging..you actually have about 4 inches that you can travel b4 you trip the light for your reaction time.
Click to expand...

that is not deep staged, that is shallow staged.

notchback said:
or you can pull as far forward as you can w/out the stage light going off.

if it goes off just back up a bit
Click to expand...

that is deep stage, and, the prestage bulbs need not be lit, matter of fact, I'd hate to have the tree come down while I was in reverse... if you are running a pro tree in heads up competition you'll have to shoe polish "DEEP STAGE" in your back window so the tree operator can give you time to fully roll forward.

notchback said:
i usually stage deep, cuz you can launch harder and tend to redlight less...
Click to expand...

i think you mean shallow... shallow will also give you a better ET as you have a running start at triggering the timing equipment.

Agian, if you have regular radials up front, Do Not Drive Thru the Water Box. back in.
 

jaymac

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Northern Mass
May 7, 2005
#19
  • May 7, 2005
  • #19
Shout out to Kyle for going with me for the "Virgin Run" and bringing his slicks to let me use !!! (Even though they stayed in the car :blam: -my bad) -- Next Wednesday - you, me, slicks, 13.99's or BUST!! :evilgrin:
So, first run of my life, street tires, didn't even blot on the slicks, and NO IDEA how to launch w/ street tires on the track:
R/T: .486
60': 2.7 :shakehead:
1/4: 17.127 :rofl:
MPH: 93.34.... There was a point where I was pretty much completely sideways and had to let off completely and get back in to get that 17...doh!!!

Best (legal) R/T: .551
Best 60': 2.378
Best 1/4: 14.581
best MPH: 96.21

So, all on Street tires w/ embarrasing 60' times, I'd say not too bad first time out!! It was a blast, and there was a new CTX that blew up off the line and shut down the track for 1 hr. :blam:

SO next Wed. I'm gonna run w/ slicks all night, I'm gunnin' for 13.99

I'm not disappointed w/ the night, since I couldn't get more than 1/2 way in the throttle until almost 3rd gear without breaking loose - slicks should make it respectable.
Good times, good times....

I'm also going to make a new thread re: my RPM's and MPH at the traps as I have hae some questions, if anyone can help.
Thanks,
Jeremy
 
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