TPS Screws

No TPS?

When you say 'without one', how does the engine behave? Are there any side effects? Sorry , cant help with the screws, you might have to visit a hardware store though.

Hope it helps!

I stripped a TPS screw when I was installing a new throttle body, so I know how much of a pain that can be. I ran with only 1 screw for a bit, but I ended up getting a new one from PepBoys or Autozone (can't remember which, either Duralast or ACDelco, something like that) and it was about $25. It came with both screws and a new gasket. If its cheaper online or just a brand you trust more go for it, as it should come complete with the stuff mine had.

As for the stripped screw, I don't remember how I finally got mine out, but most auto or hardware stores should have relatively cheap (but functioning) stripped screw/bolt removal kits. I haven't tried these myself but I've heard they're OK.

And finally, if you're driving w/o the TPS now, it might end up confusing the car a little, but I'm not sure it will do anything REALLY bad. Your Air/Fuel ratio might get a little screwy (which can throw a few to a ton of trouble codes at you), but I'm not sure. I accidentally forgot to reconnect the TPS before the new TB test-drive, but there was/is no lasting damage.

Note: the TPS is not used the same way as it was in the speed density days. The TPS is used to determine closed throttle and WOT. Between those two extreams, the PCM uses the TPS in load calculation.

For a MAF ODB2 car, a bad TPS will not cause the AF ratio to mess up.

As far as what will happen, I suspect that the car may Idle high or will be slow to idle. It may not have a good WOT response (PCM will not know to go into WOT open loop mode).

I mistakenly thought the "idle rollercoaster" had to do with A/F. Thanks for the info! I'm still learning a ton...

AFR is controlled primarily by your front o2 sensors. The PCM monitors o2 sensor voltage which swings+- around approx .5v, Rich condition at .9 swinging to lean condition at .1. The PCM responds by changing pulse on time at the injectors. If the PCM cannot achieve this Stiochiometric swing which is programmed at 14.7:1, it will set a code & light up the CEL.

Your Idle problem is probably caused by a sticking IAC (Idle air controller). Try tapping it with a wooden mallet when the problem occurs. If idle resumes to normal suspect the IAC. You should get a code also, but not always.

COol, thanks for the info, I'll remember that

OBTW the symptom described is normally a bad IAC. The confirmation is the fact the throttle body buterfly had to be held open.

Normally, the TB should close ALL THE WAY. The only source of idle air should be the IAC.

If the TBS were bad and the IAC is good, one would expect the idle to be in the 1500 RPM range. Why? Because the PCM needs the TPS to provide the T/P Closed to activate the slow idle process (involves the IAC).

But, the engine dies when the throttle is closed. Therefore, the IAC is not supplying the air needed.