Trouble Codes

SeventyMach1 · Dec 24, 2005

Yeah man, that's what they are. I found all the info searching like 15 different Mustang boards, lol. So .... could you not get the TPS set at around .98? Did you break it when you threw it? [LOL]

Oh well .... yeah, get a new one (about $30) and see if it will work out. Just give them the PN off of the old one. & I wish you the best of luck ... the stator job will be a b*tch cause the dist. will have to be completely removed.

Guero · Dec 24, 2005

i couldn't set it at .98 its was really high like at 1.30 and the lowest it would go was 1.20. so i unscrewed and threw it. yeah it broke cuz i put it back in and it was at 0 lol. and about the stator, my friend was telling me you need a special tool from Ford Is that Tru?

SeventyMach1 · Dec 24, 2005

Did you test the TPS with the engine running ..... or KOEO? The TPS is supposed to read just a hair over 1 volt with the engine running, and just a hair under with KOEO. But if 1.20V is the lowest you could get .... you're right, you should probably replace it.

I don't know about any special tools reguired, but I could be wrong. The only thing I can think of that would be helpful is a press .... or something of the like .... to press the gear off. Here, I'll just post up an article of where a guy change out his ignition module & stator at the same time. (note: he refers to the ignition control module as a TFI IV .... as he's doing this on a Fox. Also, the module on his car is located at the distributor. Ours is not.)

EDIT: this is all here to help you IF you do not want to just replace the whole distributor/stator. Some would just replace the whole thing just to avoid the hassle of putting the new stator in. Whatever you want to do, though.

I have had intermittent ignition symptoms on my 87 Mustang GT for quite a while, and they occurred infrequently enough that meaningful troubleshooting-by-symptom was nearly impossible. When I did have a
problem, the following symptoms were present: 95% of my problems were a failure to start, and 5% were occasional engine stalls or bucking while driving. The tachometer read 0 during an event. Turning the key off for 30 second before retrying would often get me going. Normally, no EEC-IV error codes were present, but over a 6-month period I did get one code 14 = "Erratic Ignition". Eventually, I found the source of my problem in the distributor, which is MUCH cheaper than the EEC-IV processor unit. The distributor has only one moving part, unlike the olden days of points and centrifugal or vacuum advance, so it REALLY is more reliable!

There are two replaceable electronic components in the distributor. (1) The TFI-IV (Thick Film Integrated) module, sometimes called a modulator, is the grey plastic part on the side of the distributor body. (2) The
Hall-effect sensor, also known as the stator or pickoff, mounts internally. To be conservative, Ford recommends replacing both the TFI-IV and stator as a set, so that's what I did, but I suspect my stator was OK. OEM list prices are about $100 for the TFI module, and $50 for the stator. Third-party vendor prices are about 30-45% less. It's likely that the design of the TFI-IV has been improved, so installing an older (used) one may not effect a long-term fix.

The distributor MUST be removed from the vehicle to replace the stator, and most probably the TFI-IV module as well. It's really no big deal. Don't forget to clean the area at the base of the distributor before removing it. Label and disconnect cylinders 1-4 from the cap and move it aside. Note the PRECISE position of both the distributor housing and the rotor for reassembly later. You'll also need a 5.5mm or 7/32" nut driver. I had to grind down the O.D. of mine to fit into the recess on the TFI-IV module. Don't forget the heat sink compound when you install a new one. Replacing the stator is a LOT more work, as you must completely disassemble the distributor. You'll have to drive out the roll pin and press the camshaft-driven gear off the distributor shaft, which is a hassle if you don't have a hydraulic press, but can still be done with a hammer if you're careful and creative. Don't forget to note the orientation of the gear on the shaft. Removal of the shaft retaining collar is much simpler than the gear because it's not a press fit. In my case, the 100K-mile engine had
gum & varnish deposits on the exposed portions of the distributor shaft which made removal from the distributor body more difficult. I inverted the distributor in a vise and poured some solvent into the base, then spun
the shaft with an electric drill while gently working it back and forth until it slid free. When reassembling, be VERY careful to align the gear on the shaft before pressing it back into place, or you'll have to press it
off and retry.

If you reinstalled everything carefully, you should be within a few degrees of proper timing. Warm up the engine, remove the SPOUT connector plug from the harness near the distributor and set the timing to 10 degrees BTDC. Reinsert the SPOUT jumper and you're back on the road with confidence!

Guero · Dec 24, 2005

oh **** im gonna return it and just get the whole Distributer since it much easier. plus i doubt the first owner ever changed it.

SeventyMach1 · Dec 24, 2005

Guero said:
oh **** im gonna return it and just get the whole Distributer since it much easier. plus i doubt the first owner ever changed it.

Now that you've stated you're going to do that, I will tell you that is the best choice. I know me saying that now sounds shi**y, but personally, I will not make a decision like that for someone else. I'll just try to let them know their options. You never know what someone else's budget is, or their downtime, etc. But yeah, that would be alot easier. Costs a little bit more, but to me, avoiding the hassle is much more worth it. I didn't know you already went out & bought a new HES, though. I wish I would have clearly stated your options sooner. Sorry about that. Good luck. If worse comes to worse, just open up on the engine bay with the AK, lol.

Guero · Dec 25, 2005

SeventyMach1 said:
Now that you've stated you're going to do that, I will tell you that is the best choice. I know me saying that now sounds shi**y, but personally, I will not make a decision like that for someone else. I'll just try to let them know their options. You never know what someone else's budget is, or their downtime, etc. But yeah, that would be alot easier. Costs a little bit more, but to me, avoiding the hassle is much more worth it. I didn't know you already went out & bought a new HES, though. I wish I would have clearly stated your options sooner. Sorry about that. Good luck. If worse comes to worse, just open up on the engine bay with the AK, lol.

yeah thanks i also think its worth it cuz of the hassle. lol on the AK. But once i did beat on my S/C on my GTP with a hammer cuz i got pissed when a screw broke on the spout.lol.

CManT1914 · Dec 25, 2005

Guero said:
yeah thanks i also think its worth it cuz of the hassle. lol on the AK. But once i did beat on my S/C on my GTP with a hammer cuz i got pissed when a screw broke on the spout.lol.

Dang fool, shooting off an AK when someone makes you mad, throwing parts across the room, hitting random engine parts, you need to curb that temper!

Or you might end up like me. I threw a screwdriver through our garage door one time, lol.

Guero · Dec 25, 2005

been there. i trew i a tile trew the garage door once cuz it keep breaking when i was cutting it

final5-0 · Dec 25, 2005

Guero said:
ill just do both of them. and i also need to get a new Throttle Body Sensor. I was trying to put it at .99-.98 and i couldn't so i took it of and threw it.

Save yourself the trouble with trying to get the tps "set"at the "perfect" value of .98 or .99 volts you see so much in these forums.

It will operate correctly with a range that is quite large in value.
Main thing is that it is not over 1.00 volts when closed.
I just saw one of the best worded write ups on setting tps voltage that just may make you think twice about striving for that perfect tps setting.

Here is the link

http://eectuning.org/forums/viewtopic.php?t=5729&sid=ccb32eb01ea8b4a6b43a033859c5ee9a

Grady

Guero · Dec 25, 2005

final5-0 said:
Save yourself the trouble with trying to get the tps "set"at the "perfect" value of .98 or .99 volts you see so much in these forums.

It will operate correctly with a range that is quite large in value.
Main thing is that it is not over 1.00 volts when closed.
I just saw one of the best worded write ups on setting tps voltage that just may make you think twice about striving for that perfect tps setting.

Here is the link

http://eectuning.org/forums/viewtopic.php?t=5729&sid=ccb32eb01ea8b4a6b43a033859c5ee9a

Grady

thxs final thats really gonna make it easier on the new one. but my problem was it wouldn't go any lower than 1.20 and a high of 1.30. but hopefully it was broken or something cuz i dont want to break the new one to.lol and thxs guys for all your help. i really feel better bout working on my own car. not that i cant but its my temper that makes me crazy.lol

final5-0 · Dec 25, 2005

Guero said:
thxs final thats really gonna make it easier on the new one. but my problem was it wouldn't go any lower than 1.20 and a high of 1.30. but hopefully it was broken or something cuz i dont want to break the new one to.lol and thxs guys for all your help. i really feel better bout working on my own car. not that i cant but its my temper that makes me crazy.lol

Yes Guero

That does sound like something wasn't quite right

Hope you get it all sorted out to your liking

Merry Christmas
Grady

Guero · Dec 25, 2005

as soon as its between 70 and 99 im gonna leave it there and not worry bout the hassle right

Guero · Dec 30, 2005

Guero said:
and is this The Thick Film Ignition Module(Ignition Control Module)?

were the **** is this located?

SeventyMach1 · Dec 31, 2005

Should be in the area below your intake ducting. Near the strut tower.

Trouble Codes

SeventyMach1

Keep it lubed .... keep it straight .... and keep

Guero

Active Member

SeventyMach1

Keep it lubed .... keep it straight .... and keep

Guero

Active Member

SeventyMach1

Keep it lubed .... keep it straight .... and keep

Guero

Active Member

CManT1914

New Member

Guero

Active Member

final5-0

Mustang Master

Guero

Active Member

final5-0

Mustang Master

Guero

Active Member

Guero

Active Member

SeventyMach1

Keep it lubed .... keep it straight .... and keep

Similar threads

Trouble Codes

Keep it lubed .... keep it straight .... and keep

Active Member

Keep it lubed .... keep it straight .... and keep

Active Member

Keep it lubed .... keep it straight .... and keep

Active Member

New Member

Active Member

Mustang Master

Active Member

Mustang Master

Active Member

Active Member

Keep it lubed .... keep it straight .... and keep

Similar threads

Privacy & Transparency

Privacy & Transparency