COramprat said:
LOL why did I think your car was a auto..
The therft indicator is supposed to prove out when you turn the key to the start or on position yours is not so you have a PATS issue check fuse #15 and #18 in the fuse junction panel under the dash
Section 13-11B: Anti-Theft System, Passive 1996 Mustang Workshop Manual
DESCRIPTION AND OPERATION Procedure revision date: 05/18/2000
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Vehicle Enabling
For normal vehicle protection proveout and vehicle enabling to occur, the THEFT indicator must proveout as follows:
Normal operating proveout on theft indicator is two seconds: ON then OFF after the ignition switch has been turned from OFF to RUN/START position. This vehicle can be started.
If normal two second proveout occurs and engine cranks for more than one second after ignition switch is turned to START position but fails to start, the fault is not with the passive vehicle protection system.
The clutch switch is right behind the clutch pedal arm, on the floor. It's just a button. I'm sure that is fine, but try unplugging the harness and jumping the two pins together with wire and trying it.
Don't bother having Autozone test the starter. They will connect the ground to the most nasty, rusty section of it to test, and it will always fail. I would however have them test your battery. I've seen some batteries go bad to the point where a jump wouldn't even do the trick. I had to put a good battery in to get the car started.
When you're checking out everything under your car, get a multimeter or test light, and see if your starter is getting juice from the main thicker wire. It's a b1tch and a half to get to it, but it's even harder to remove, unless you left the top bolt out of it. If you've got power there, then have someone try to start it, while checking the smaller solenoid wire. It should get current when the key is turned to start. If it does have juice, then you're looking at a bad starter. If it doesn't get power to the smaller wire, then it's an ignition problem. If you don't have power at the big wire, it's either a bad battery, or a break in the wire.
Don't bother having Autozone test the starter. They will connect the ground to the most nasty, rusty section of it to test, and it will always fail. I would however have them test your battery. I've seen some batteries go bad to the point where a jump wouldn't even do the trick. I had to put a good battery in to get the car started.
When you're checking out everything under your car, get a multimeter or test light, and see if your starter is getting juice from the main thicker wire. It's a b1tch and a half to get to it, but it's even harder to remove, unless you left the top bolt out of it. If you've got power there, then have someone try to start it, while checking the smaller solenoid wire. It should get current when the key is turned to start. If it does have juice, then you're looking at a bad starter. If it doesn't get power to the smaller wire, then it's an ignition problem. If you don't have power at the big wire, it's either a bad battery, or a break in the wire.