Trouble starting tonight

COramprat

...I can take it. I think.
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Mar 2, 2003
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I got our to my car after work, inserted key and nothing. All the lights worked fine and even when I tried to jump start it wouldn't turn over. I checked the relays by swapping the starter relay with the foglight relay to see if it was bad. Nothing still. So we pushed started it and I was able to make it home. Once I got home and shut it down I tried to start it back up and still nothing.

I just got it back after it sat a while with a broken shift fork. The battery was weak but after a good days time of running it has been fine til tonight. I haven't tested the battery yet but I was wondering if anyone had anything like this happen before. Is it the starter maybe?
 
It sounds like the starter since you were able to push start it. When you turn the key listen for the starter to click and engage just before the motor turns over. Most parts stores will test if for you for free if you take it in.
 
I don't think it is the ignition switch because the fuel pump comes on when I turn the key. I thought about the safety interlock. Could be a possibility. At first it acted as if I didn't turn off the alarm. I was thinking maybe the system had messed up but after I pushed started it, it ran fine.

I don't hear the starter engage when I turn the key so unless it is the interlock is keeping it from getting power I'll probably pull it and see what is up. Maybe the starter solenoid?
 
COramprat said:
I don't think it is the ignition switch because the fuel pump comes on when I turn the key. I thought about the safety interlock. Could be a possibility. At first it acted as if I didn't turn off the alarm. I was thinking maybe the system had messed up but after I pushed started it, it ran fine.

I don't hear the starter engage when I turn the key so unless it is the interlock is keeping it from getting power I'll probably pull it and see what is up. Maybe the starter solenoid?

Trying hitting the SOB starter with a hammer...seriously lol. If it starts up, you know it's the problem.

You can also have the starter, alternator, and battery tested.
 
the98stang said:
Trying hitting the SOB starter with a hammer...seriously lol. If it starts up, you know it's the problem.

You can also have the starter, alternator, and battery tested.
:rlaugh: Yea...did that with my old 92 Stang. I'll just have to jack it up in the am and see what I c an find.

One question to anyone who knows. Where is the clutch interlock switch? Is it activated by a part of the clutch pedal under the dash somewhere?
 
Take your starter in to be tested first. 99.9% of the time this is it, especially if you can push it and start it by popping the clutch. Regardless of the year, some last longer than others but they all fail eventually. Did you hear it engage when you turned the key?
 
Robs96 said:
Take your starter in to be tested first. 99.9% of the time this is it, especially if you can push it and start it by popping the clutch. Regardless of the year, some last longer than others but they all fail eventually. Did you hear it engage when you turned the key?
Nah...can't here it engage at all but it does the same thing when I don't disengage the alarm. I have no siren so it just flashes the lights and won't start. It won't engage the starter which is why I thought it my be the alarm system at first.


svttech76 said:
check to see if the theft light is flashing while you hold the key in the start position. If it is flashing or solid you have a PATS problem. If not then check to see if the N start safety switch is working ok.
Theft light just steady so the pats is OK. I guess by the N start safety switch you are talking about the clutch switch. :D
 
COramprat said:
Nah...can't here it engage at all but it does the same thing when I don't disengage the alarm. I have no siren so it just flashes the lights and won't start. It won't engage the starter which is why I thought it my be the alarm system at first.


Theft light just steady so the pats is OK. I guess by the N start safety switch you are talking about the clutch switch. :D


LOL why did I think your car was a auto..

The therft indicator is supposed to prove out when you turn the key to the start or on position yours is not so you have a PATS issue check fuse #15 and #18 in the fuse junction panel under the dash

Section 13-11B: Anti-Theft System, Passive 1996 Mustang Workshop Manual
DESCRIPTION AND OPERATION Procedure revision date: 05/18/2000

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Vehicle Enabling
For normal vehicle protection proveout and vehicle enabling to occur, the THEFT indicator must proveout as follows:

Normal operating proveout on theft indicator is two seconds: ON then OFF after the ignition switch has been turned from OFF to RUN/START position. This vehicle can be started.
If normal two second proveout occurs and engine cranks for more than one second after ignition switch is turned to START position but fails to start, the fault is not with the passive vehicle protection system.
 
svttech76 said:
LOL why did I think your car was a auto..

The therft indicator is supposed to prove out when you turn the key to the start or on position yours is not so you have a PATS issue check fuse #15 and #18 in the fuse junction panel under the dash

Section 13-11B: Anti-Theft System, Passive 1996 Mustang Workshop Manual
DESCRIPTION AND OPERATION Procedure revision date: 05/18/2000

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Vehicle Enabling
For normal vehicle protection proveout and vehicle enabling to occur, the THEFT indicator must proveout as follows:

Normal operating proveout on theft indicator is two seconds: ON then OFF after the ignition switch has been turned from OFF to RUN/START position. This vehicle can be started.
If normal two second proveout occurs and engine cranks for more than one second after ignition switch is turned to START position but fails to start, the fault is not with the passive vehicle protection system.
OK...I'll do that but would it push-start if it was the PATS? I got home fine after we pushed it off.
 
The clutch switch is right behind the clutch pedal arm, on the floor. It's just a button. I'm sure that is fine, but try unplugging the harness and jumping the two pins together with wire and trying it.

Don't bother having Autozone test the starter. They will connect the ground to the most nasty, rusty section of it to test, and it will always fail. I would however have them test your battery. I've seen some batteries go bad to the point where a jump wouldn't even do the trick. I had to put a good battery in to get the car started.

When you're checking out everything under your car, get a multimeter or test light, and see if your starter is getting juice from the main thicker wire. It's a b1tch and a half to get to it, but it's even harder to remove, unless you left the top bolt out of it. If you've got power there, then have someone try to start it, while checking the smaller solenoid wire. It should get current when the key is turned to start. If it does have juice, then you're looking at a bad starter. If it doesn't get power to the smaller wire, then it's an ignition problem. If you don't have power at the big wire, it's either a bad battery, or a break in the wire.