Tubular K-members

86bluecobra · Dec 24, 2007

Ok I'm kicking around the idea of doing some work to my suspension. I have a basically factory suspension at this point. I would like to do a tubular k-member and a-arms. What to buy. Do I just buy the QA-1 kit or what about Anthony Jones from jegs? I'm not made of cash but I would like my Stang to hook better at the track. I don't think i can afford a maximum motorsports kit.

Ok another question is manual steering racks? Good idea or bad? I have power assist right now. I noticed that manual kits are 3.2 turns lock to lock and mine is 2.5 right now. Anyone swapped one in lately? Was it a mistake for a street driven car? Is flaming river the way to go? What size belt do you end up going to?

Thx for the help.

payupsucka · Dec 24, 2007

i have the upr tubular k member kit with the a arms and coilovers, for the price you cant beat it. and regardless of what people say about the quality i havent seen a problem with mine and i have had it on the car for about 2 years now

PUNISHER RACING · Dec 24, 2007

UPR kit I just picked one up for the 2001. I have em in everything they are a great piece, wide variety of spring rates to choose from also. can't go wrong for $649.00

2000xp8 · Dec 24, 2007

Spend the money elsewere, they will not do much for you. And maybe some people have luck with the upr, but i've seen what happens to some of them when you drive around on the street with it. The qa1 is no work of art either.

People been hooking for years without a k member, so if you are spinning that bad, the problem is elsewhere.
The 1.6 in your sig is pretty good, i'd expect a k member does not improve on that.

Manual rack, i've driven cars that way, i wouldn't do that either. Unless of course you never have to drive in a tight area or a parking lot. Steers fine at speed, but any other time it's a PITA.

86bluecobra · Dec 24, 2007

Yah a 1.6 is not bad but I want to get this car in the 10's. If i can get that 1.6 to a 1.5 i'm getting closer. Anyone buy the Anthony jones kit? His kit costs $1000. Looks nice. The lose off 100 pounds up front alone has to be worth 1 tenth. That compounded with the the fact that there is 100 lbs less to move when you transfer wieght to the rear has to be worth a bit more for the 60 foot time. Thx for the help so far guys.

Dean85GT · Dec 24, 2007

Im in the same boat but it is really a tough decision. I am reading tons of bad reviews about every company which is making me really uneasy.

86bluecobra · Dec 24, 2007

What struts are you guys running? I imagine you are running the coil overs right? what spring tension?

PUNISHER RACING · Dec 24, 2007

Actually with a complete kit you save 55lbs over the stock one, and get a better transfer as well as coil overs tailored to your car. But hey, a K member is a waste of money really all the NMRA cars have stock K members in place yet as well as all of MM road race cars(where do some people live) !!!

PUNISHER RACING · Dec 24, 2007

http://www.musclemustangfastfords.com/tech/mmfp_0704_fox_body_drag_racing_suspension/index.html

86bluecobra · Dec 24, 2007

hmm 55 pounds eh? well that is not much but it will help a little. I need every little bit I can get. I want to beat my bro-inlaws 67 dart with a 440 in it. The biggest help will be the fact I'll have a drag racing suspension and not a lowered road racing suspension in my car. I have to swap my spindles to run adjustable struts on my car anyways so if i am going to tear into the front suspension I might aswell do it all.

86bluecobra · Dec 24, 2007

PUNISHER RACING said:
http://www.musclemustangfastfords.com/tech/mmfp_0704_fox_body_drag_racing_suspension/index.html

Thanks for the link I was just going through my magizines looking for a test or a install article.

86bluecobra · Dec 24, 2007

PUNISHER RACING said:
UPR kit I just picked one up for the 2001. I have em in everything they are a great piece, wide variety of spring rates to choose from also. can't go wrong for $649.00

How easy was it to bolt on? Was there a bunch of modifications needed?

88-378 · Dec 24, 2007

I have the AJE Racing K member. I love it. But for a daily driver, I would not do it. My car is strictly a warm weather weekend driver. Plus, I don't take it on bad roads.

I coupled my K with some Bilsteins and H&R springs. Rides GREAT! alot better than the saleen springs and monroe shocks!!

My car rides almost BMW like. And that's a compliment to the ride. Now once i get the aluminum heads and shave another 40 off the front i should be good to go.

86bluecobra · Dec 24, 2007

88-378 said:
I have the AJE Racing K member. I love it. But for a daily driver, I would not do it. My car is strictly a warm weather weekend driver. Plus, I don't take it on bad roads.

I coupled my K with some Bilsteins and H&R springs. Rides GREAT! alot better than the saleen springs and monroe shocks!!

My car rides almost BMW like. And that's a compliment to the ride. Now once i get the aluminum heads and shave another 40 off the front i should be good to go.

My car is a summer only weekend warrior itself I guess. Sometimes I drive it back and forth to work. Since I reinstalled the rear seats it has been a nice car to cruise in with the kids and the wife. I do drive it back and forth to the strip however and i don't want to loose being able to do that.

2000xp8 · Dec 24, 2007

PUNISHER RACING said:
Actually with a complete kit you save 55lbs over the stock one, and get a better transfer as well as coil overs tailored to your car. But hey, a K member is a waste of money really all the NMRA cars have stock K members in place yet as well as all of MM road race cars(where do some people live) !!!

Not sure the exact true meaning of this statement. Sarcasm?

Comparing race cars to street cars is apples and oranges.
A race car does not need to put up with pot holes and other road obstacles.

The stock K member is strong and effective, bit heavy, but it's still strong.
There is only a couple that meet the stock strenght, Griggs and MM being 2 of them, but you lose minimal wieght with them, and they are expensive.

I'd spend the money on the engine, no reason a 351 shouldn't be running your times and mph NA, then you add the 150 shot and you should be 10's.

86bluecobra · Dec 24, 2007

2000xp8 said:
I'd spend the money on the engine, no reason a 351 shouldn't be running your times and mph NA, then you add the 150 shot and you should be 10's.

I would say the fact my car is 8.2 to 1 compression is probably the reason it does not run in the 11's N/A. I need to get it to hook better. It spins my slicks all the way through 2nd gear. If I spent some time on the suspension I'm sure I could get better times. The 1.605 sixty foot was at a nice drag strip. At our local strip I get 2.0's to 1.7's. Last time I was out my best was a 1.98 i believe. I want the car to hook at the local track where there is not the addition of VHT helping the car.

2000xp8 · Dec 24, 2007

I read your cardomain page, didn't see any mention of shocks and struts.
Adjustables at all 4 corners will help.
It's hard to justify the K member cost, if you don't have good shocks and struts.
IMO, the k member is the end of the road suspension modification, when you have nothing else left to do other than start cutting weight.

86bluecobra · Dec 24, 2007

2000xp8 said:
I read your cardomain page, didn't see any mention of shocks and struts.
Adjustables at all 4 corners will help.
It's hard to justify the K member cost, if you don't have good shocks and struts.
IMO, the k member is the end of the road suspension modification, when you have nothing else left to do other than start cutting weight.

No I do not have adjustable struts and shocks yet. Was thinking about getting a set of strange engineering ones at the same time. I would be redoing basically the entire suspension. Since my car is a 86 I have to get spindles from a 87-93 to do the adjustable struts. I just haven't gotten there yet. Although I was just talking to a guy here in town who bought a written off stang and it has nice slotted rotors on it. So maybe I'll pick up its front end goodies.

ronburgundy · Dec 24, 2007

i'm in the same boat. i think i'm gonna try adjustable rear shocks and some spherical ended control arms for the rear. try to linber up the suspension bind a bit.

89-347-LX · Dec 24, 2007

if your gonna get a manuel rack go to autozone and get one for a 79 mustang they are 80 bucks
save ya some cash
i have a D&D full front suspension with coilovers
went on just fine lookes great
no problems since

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