Tubular K-members

I love my MM K-member. The front end of my car has toons of grip and between the coil overs, a-arms and k-member it shaved a pretty decent amount off the front of my car. This winter I plan on moving the engine back 1" (which the MM k-member allows you to do with motor mount holes located 1" back from stock). This is one of the main advantages to getting a aftermarket k-member. Moving the engine and transmission rearwards 1" combined with the 3/4" longer wheel base (which the MM k-member and a bunch of other k-members change) helps the F/R weight distribution pretty siginificantly. But you have to be careful about your wheels and tires, because with the wheels sitting 3/4" further forward in the wheel wells, the tire will be that much closer to the inner and outer fender and could affect your turning radius if they are too large.
 
I love my MM K-member. The front end of my car has toons of grip and between the coil overs, a-arms and k-member it shaved a pretty decent amount off the front of my car. This winter I plan on moving the engine back 1" (which the MM k-member allows you to do with motor mount holes located 1" back from stock). This is one of the main advantages to getting a aftermarket k-member. Moving the engine and transmission rearwards 1" combined with the 3/4" longer wheel base (which the MM k-member and a bunch of other k-members change) helps the F/R weight distribution pretty siginificantly. But you have to be careful about your wheels and tires, because with the wheels sitting 3/4" further forward in the wheel wells, the tire will be that much closer to the inner and outer fender and could affect your turning radius if they are too large.

This 3/4 of an inch forward is something that worries me since on my 86 the 15 inch 225's on the front already rub the inner fender in the front. Since the 86 is the 4 banger suspension. The same happened when i installed 225's on my wifes 4 banger convertible. I wonder if I go with 87-93 spindles if it will be ok? Anyone know?
 
Well I ordered eibach drag launch kit and I got some 87-93 spindles so all I need now is the strange engineering 10 way adjustable struts and shocks and that will be about all I do for the suspension. I'll forgo the K-member for now. Maybe down the road when I pull the motor to freshen it up.
 
Taking weight off the front end is a great way to help traction.

I use the strange 10 ways in my car and they work well for street and strip use.

Check the travel. Adjust the spacers to get as much travel from the front suspension as possible before the tires starts to lift off the ground.

Here are a few ideas of cheaper ways to remove weight before you buy your K-Member

Move your battery to the RH rear of the trunk. Pretty cheap and easy way to remove 50lbs from the nose of your car.

Light weight front wheels and tires are another great way to remove at least another 50lbs from your front end.

The lighter the nose the better your weight transfer at the track will be! :nice:
 
thx for the help. My battery is in the back. I have weld draglites up front. I have a fiberglass hood and doors and hatch. Lexan glass in the hatch. Aluminum heads and intake. Aluminum rad. Basically i think tubular k-member and control arms are my last weight saver.
 
They come with several spacers that go around your CC plates. I removed all of the spacers and put them on the bottom of the CC Plates. This makes the struts as long as possible. This will give you the most travel you can have before the car tries to lift the front tires. :nice:

For some reason I want to have a video of my car pulling the front tires. I have a vid where you can see the front tires come off the ground for a split second but I want to pull them a little bit higher.
 
For some reason I want to have a video of my car pulling the front tires. I have a vid where you can see the front tires come off the ground for a split second but I want to pull them a little bit higher.

I don't have vids of mine but I have pics! :nice:
94mustang8x10.webp
 

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