Turbocoupe rear disc E-BRAKE QUESTION

smokin91' · Apr 6, 2007

I have the SSBC rear disc kit (same as turbocoupe).

Im aware I need 2 of the M-2809-A cables, one for the left and one for the right side.

Do I also need 1 M-2810-A cable to make it work?

Or are the 2 M-2809-A cables all I need?

Ive also heard some stuff about having to modify the ebrake handle, whats up with that as well?

trbkrb · Apr 6, 2007

This web page has the install instructions and pictures (click on the orange text)for those cables and modifying the ebrake. Just scroll down to the ebrake handle and cables section.

http://www.mustangcentral.net/tech/brake.html

I installed my ebrakes with the stock self adjuster and didn't do the mod. It worked for a while, but now I can't get the ebrake to hold properly. So I plan to do it correctly modifying the handle like Ford instructs you to do with those ebrake cables. Oh, and yes, you need all 3 cables to get it adjusted properly along with the handle mod.

jrichker · Apr 6, 2007

Weld it up according to the instuctions and it will work great. I never realized how handy it was to have a working E brake until I fixed mine.

smokin91' · Apr 7, 2007

Where am i supposed to cut that end of the spring off to? Can you edit the picture and put a line in it for me?

Quote from the site
"The final step that is not mentioned in the instructions is to remove the overlapping metal on the PAWL. In it's original form, the handle would lift the pawl when released but since we have now welded the pawl to the handle, the overlapping metal now will not let the handle sit all the way down. Cut it with the torch while you have it out."

what overlapping metal on the pawl is he talking about? What part is the pawl?

Shakerhood · Apr 7, 2007

After I cut the Spring I just removed it as I figure it would sit free to rattle in there.

jrichker · Apr 7, 2007

I just cut the spring into small pieces with a cut off wheel and pulled them out. I had the welder to make several tack welds to secure the spool to the handle. That way it wasn't dependent on just the one weld on the pawl.

trbkrb · Apr 7, 2007

smokin91' said:
handle, the overlapping metal now will not let the handle sit all the way down. Cut it with the torch while you have it out."

what overlapping metal on the pawl is he talking about? What part is the pawl?

You cut the pawl, the small part with only one tooth on it, at the yellow line in the first picture. That piece of overlapping metal will keep the ebrake handle popped up a couple of inches, not letting it lay down flat when released. You can see it clearly in the second picture where the pawl was welded to the handle on the tip and where it was cut.

smokin91' · Apr 7, 2007

So then I want to totally remove the spring and make my ebrake handle look like the one in the 2nd picture?

With the modified handle when you pull the handle up what keeps it held up now? Wasnt that the purpose of those teeth?

Im just kind of confused as to how the mechanics of the ebrake handle are working now, as opposed to when it was stock. (explain before/after to me if you can because both are kind of unclear)

jrichker · Apr 7, 2007

smokin91' said:
So then I want to totally remove the spring and make my ebrake handle look like the one in the 2nd picture?

With the modified handle when you pull the handle up what keeps it held up now? Wasnt that the purpose of those teeth?

Im just kind of confused as to how the mechanics of the ebrake handle are working now, as opposed to when it was stock. (explain before/after to me if you can because both are kind of unclear)

The modification disables the self adjuster that keeps the E brake cable tight. It is similar in function to the notorious self adjuster for the clutch cable.

There is another set of teeth and a ratchet pawl that serves to lock the handle in its up & down path. The push button on top of the handle releases the pawl when you press on it, allowing you to return the handle to the lowest position.

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