Ugh, my problem continuation

Synned · Nov 5, 2005

Okay guys, this must be my fifth time trying to solve this problem. When my car gets to a certain point of driving, it runs horribly. No low end at all. It all depends on how hot it is outside. If it's summer, it'll take all of 5 minutes and then suck, if its cold out it could take up to 45 minutes, but it WILL happen. The car seems to run rich at this point, backfiring soemtimes if revved up and sometimes black smoke will exit the tailpipes. What the heck could cause this? A TFI module going south? How about clogged cats? Ugh...I don't know anymore.
crapola

donkey_punch · Nov 5, 2005

do you ever get a check engine light come on?

if you have, pull codes thats a good starting point.

since you said it's your fifth time trying to solve this. what have you done to try and fix this problem?
might want to back your timing to stock 10* , see how it does from there.

your sig say 52K. what does it have now?

and i could bet your O2 sensors are stock, and most likley the problem. (thats if you haven't changed them already)

Synned · Nov 6, 2005

donkey_punch said:
do you ever get a check engine light come on?

if you have, pull codes thats a good starting point.

since you said it's your fifth time trying to solve this. what have you done to try and fix this problem?
might want to back your timing to stock 10* , see how it does from there.

your sig say 52K. what does it have now?

and i could bet your O2 sensors are stock, and most likley the problem. (thats if you haven't changed them already)

Well so far, I have a new cap, rotor, wires, plugs, o2's, ect, cleaned maf and iat and iac. No codes at all...not even codes with no light. crapola

CManT1914 · Nov 6, 2005

Sounds like you need to do some testing. Have you tested your maf, ect, and o2's? Those are the major sensors that effect driveability. A Hayne's manual lays out exactly what you gotta do to test each one to see if it's still operational.

Synned · Nov 6, 2005

CManT1914 said:
Sounds like you need to do some testing. Have you tested your maf, ect, and o2's? Those are the major sensors that effect driveability. A Hayne's manual lays out exactly what you gotta do to test each one to see if it's still operational.

Well the thing I did was went to my friends dad who is a mechanic, he had something called a snap-on, plugs into the diagnostics port and every sensor, o2's, maf, tps were all right on. But this was while the car was acting fine. I wonder if something could be acting fine sometimes and then at a certain point work wacky? And wouldn't there be codes?

Thanks for the help guys
Joe

sage2k · Nov 6, 2005

shot in the dark but maybe your MAF is just going bad? I bet you can pick up a used one really cheap or just borrow one from a stang friends if you can and try it?

CManT1914 · Nov 6, 2005

Synned said:
Well the thing I did was went to my friends dad who is a mechanic, he had something called a snap-on, plugs into the diagnostics port and every sensor, o2's, maf, tps were all right on. But this was while the car was acting fine. I wonder if something could be acting fine sometimes and then at a certain point work wacky? And wouldn't there be codes?

Thanks for the help guys
Joe

That thing that he has, unless it takes a reading at the sensor itself, I'm not sure if it would be very accurate. There might not be any codes. For example: When my maf (stock) went out on me for the first time, I couldn't for the life of me figure out what is was. It would sometimes run okay, then other times it would totally crap out. No codes, no CEL, no nothing. Eventually a CEL did come on, and it ended up being the maf. The second time it went out on me, I was a little more knowledgeable about cars. So I pulled out my multimeter and went to testing. There were no codes this time either, but sure enough, my maf was pretty far out of spec. See, if the sensor still operates, and is close enough in spec, then it won't neccessarily throw a code. Think about it, a maf that's calibrated for different injectors, it won't throw a code because it's working properly, but the readings it's giving are inaccurate, causing the car to run like poop. So I'd get a multimeter and Hayne's manual if you don't already have one and see what's up! Good luck
-Chris

sage2k said:
shot in the dark but maybe your MAF is just going bad? I bet you can pick up a used one really cheap or just borrow one from a stang friends if you can and try it?

I'm gonna second this opinion. They tend to go out quite frequently and cause these same problems.

Synned · Nov 6, 2005

Where would you guys pick up a used one? None of my friends have stangs. :-(. Junkyard?

CManT1914 · Nov 6, 2005

Synned said:
Where would you guys pick up a used one? None of my friends have stangs. :-(. Junkyard?

Sure, but you run the risk of getting a bad one.

Synned · Nov 6, 2005

I have noticed something about the MAF, though it seems opposite of how I htink it should act. When I try to run it without the MAF when its acting up, it doesnt run. When I try to run it without it when its running good, it runs fine. I don't get it.

CManT1914 · Nov 6, 2005

Synned said:
I have noticed something about the MAF, though it seems opposite of how I htink it should act. When I try to run it without the MAF when its acting up, it doesnt run. When I try to run it without it when its running good, it runs fine. I don't get it.

If there are no changes when you unplug the maf, then the PCM is not even reading it. That makes me to believe that your maf is indeed the culprit.

Synned · Nov 6, 2005

CManT1914 said:
If there are no changes when you unplug the maf, then the PCM is not even reading it. That makes me to believe that your maf is indeed the culprit.

Well its like I can drive and it feels quick, but sometimes it wants to die but not really. Like theres not really a difference. But when its acting up and I unplug it, i can't get anywhere depending on how bad the car is running. It's strange and backwards.

dstanggt50 · Nov 6, 2005

I had a problem w/the maf once, caused horrible driveability problems and never could figure out why, no codes, cleaned my maf. Found out later I was reading around .45v @idle, replaced the maf, was fine. I would try to chk maf voltage, go from there.

Synned · Nov 6, 2005

Anyone have any reason to disagree that its the MAF sensor? I don't want to go throw more parts at it if it's not it. Symptoms:
Sometimes the car runs crappy, hesitation and backfiring.
When its hot out it happens more often, happening faster than when its cold out.
It will eventually always happen, depending on the temperature outside.
I can drive without the MAF sensor when the car is running right, but i cannot when the car is acting up.

dstanggt50 · Nov 6, 2005

Synned said:
Anyone have any reason to disagree that its the MAF sensor? I don't want to go throw more parts at it if it's not it. Symptoms:
Sometimes the car runs crappy, hesitation and backfiring.
When its hot out it happens more often, happening faster than when its cold out.
It will eventually always happen, depending on the temperature outside.
I can drive without the MAF sensor when the car is running right, but i cannot when the car is acting up.

To be sure w/out buying parts, you could have any shop chk your voltage @ idle w/a snap on scanner, or the ford star tester.

Synned · Nov 6, 2005

dstanggt50 said:
To be sure w/out buying parts, you could have any shop chk your voltage @ idle w/a snap on scanner, or the ford star tester.

I had that exactly done with a snap-on, but it was while the car was running correctly.

dstanggt50 · Nov 6, 2005

Synned said:
I had that exactly done with a snap-on, but it was while the car was running correctly.

I would definately have them chk the voltage again for you now that the car is running incorrectly.

94-302-vert · Nov 7, 2005

Synned, where do you live. Maybe there is another stanger relatively close to do the ol MAF swap...?

for the most part we seem to be everywhere...

Synned · Nov 7, 2005

I live in Bensalem, Pennsylvania, very very close to Philadelphia. Anyone in Philly wanna try a MAF swap? I'll pay for gas.

SQUEEZE&STROKE · Nov 7, 2005

Synned said:
I live in Bensalem, Pennsylvania, very very close to Philadelphia. Anyone in Philly wanna try a MAF swap? I'll pay for gas.

You can have mine for $20 plus shipping. It is black, Just cleaned, Sitting in my room in a plastic bag. I took it off june of 2004, ran wonderful until I took it off. PM me if interested.

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