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Under Drive Pulleys

  • Thread starter Thread starter Scotth13
  • Start date Start date Jul 13, 2016

Scotth13

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  • Jul 13, 2016
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Hey guys I'm new to this forum. I have a question I need help with. I own a 2007 GT that is currently in the shop. The guy at the garage has discovered the water pump pulley is cracked. My car has Roush under drive pulleys and the stock pulley will not work. I have contacted Roush and several mustang outlets and I can't find anyone that sells the pulleys individually. They are only sold in the pair. I really don't want to spend $270 on a new set when I only need the water pump pulley. Having said that I have two questions. Does anyone know where I could purchase just the water pump pulley. The second question is, does anyone know the diameter of the SR performance or the BBK water pump pulley. They are $100 cheaper. I would like to use them if the pulleys are the same diameter. The Roush pulley measures right at 6 1/2 inches. Thanks in advance for the help.
 

Noobz347

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You don't happen to have the stock pulleys lying around still, do you?

If you do, they will be an upgrade.
 

Scotth13

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Sorry I don't. They were on the car when I purchased it.
 

Scotth13

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The stock pulleys would be an upgrade from the Roush under drives?
 

Noobz347

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If you get the BBK pulleys in a pair, I would think that they would be just as good. You could probably sell your one good pulley to someone with the opposite problem.

Scotth13 said:
The stock pulleys would be an upgrade from the Roush under drives?
Click to expand...

Yes. The water-pump would be moving the coolant in the volume specified by the engineer that designed it. Under-drive pulleys (particularly partial sets that under-drive a single component what... 20%) freed up 2, maybe 3 Hp at the rear wheels? (I've seen 6 at the wheels with just an alternator belt and no other accessories driven) All for $270.

That's why I say the stock pulleys would be an upgrade.

Edit: I failed to mention the additional timing that gets pulled on warm days when the cooling system is taxed. Temp increase = Total timing pulled
 
Last edited: Jul 13, 2016
J

jerryboy

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  • Sep 16, 2016
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Noobz347 said:
If you get the BBK pulleys in a pair, I would think that they would be just as good. You could probably sell your one good pulley to someone with the opposite problem.



Yes. The water-pump would be moving the coolant in the volume specified by the engineer that designed it. Under-drive pulleys (particularly partial sets that under-drive a single component what... 20%) freed up 2, maybe 3 Hp at the rear wheels? (I've seen 6 at the wheels with just an alternator belt and no other accessories driven) All for $270.

That's why I say the stock pulleys would be an upgrade.

Edit: I failed to mention the additional timing that gets pulled on warm days when the cooling system is taxed. Temp increase = Total timing pulled
Click to expand...
noob, can under drive pulleys cause hard starting when hot, after sitting 1/2 hr to an hour??
 

Noobz347

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  • Sep 16, 2016
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jerryboy said:
noob, can under drive pulleys cause hard starting when hot, after sitting 1/2 hr to an hour??
Click to expand...


Not usually, no. Hard starting is USUALLY caused by heat soaking the starter. It's why you see so many high torque mini-starters being used with aftermarket headers. There's a couple of things that you can do/try:

A mini-starter (of course) as it has a smaller physical foot-print and is farther away from the heat source (headers and exhaust).
A starter blanket
Header wrap

It might also be a good idea to check the health of your starter cables and connections. The hotter the wiring and connectors become (the starter too for that matter) the more electrical resistance there in within the circuit.

The other USUAL cause would be excessive crank case pressure or high compression (not very usual on these cars).

I've cooked OEM starters and aftermarket mini-starters. They act fine for a while then.... I'm sure you've experienced the same outcome. hehe
 
J

jerryboy

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  • Sep 16, 2016
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Noobz347 said:
Not usually, no. Hard starting is USUALLY caused by heat soaking the starter. It's why you see so many high torque mini-starters being used with aftermarket headers. There's a couple of things that you can do/try:

A mini-starter (of course) as it has a smaller physical foot-print and is farther away from the heat source (headers and exhaust).
A starter blanket
Header wrap

It might also be a good idea to check the health of your starter cables and connections. The hotter the wiring and connectors become (the starter too for that matter) the more electrical resistance there in within the circuit.

The other USUAL cause would be excessive crank case pressure or high compression (not very usual on these cars).

I've cooked OEM starters and aftermarket mini-starters. They act fine for a while then.... I'm sure you've experienced the same outcome. hehe
Click to expand...
Noobz347 said:
Not usually, no. Hard starting is USUALLY caused by heat soaking the starter. It's why you see so many high torque mini-starters being used with aftermarket headers. There's a couple of things that you can do/try:

A mini-starter (of course) as it has a smaller physical foot-print and is farther away from the heat source (headers and exhaust).
A starter blanket
Header wrap

It might also be a good idea to check the health of your starter cables and connections. The hotter the wiring and connectors become (the starter too for that matter) the more electrical resistance there in within the circuit.

The other USUAL cause would be excessive crank case pressure or high compression (not very usual on these cars).

I've cooked OEM starters and aftermarket mini-starters. They act fine for a while then.... I'm sure you've experienced the same outcome. hehe
Click to expand...
Noob, please look at my post "14000 mile 2006 GT starting problems when hot". The starter cranks just fine.
 
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