UPR K-Member Kit

98gtblue said:

Should I use coilovers in the back or springs. If so which ones. thanks again.

Click to expand...

That's personal prefrence. I opted not to because the factory rear setup is pretty decent for drag racing and daily driving.

Road course and such I'd probably have gone with rear C/O's

SilverBullet00 said:

Maybe in your mini-van, not on our cars. Chrome-moly is some tough stuff, though. If the welds are good quality, I would think it would be just fine.

Its pretty hard to believe that a front end collision could be able to push through your bumper support, hit your motor so hard it would break the welds on the k member, and PUSH your motor through your firewall into the driver.

Click to expand...

Have you even been in or seen a serious wreck up close. Do you know what happens when a two cars hit at 70mph in a head on collision? Its like hitting a wall at 140mph. Don't think the motor doesn't end up in your lap? These cars are not tanks. There is hardly any sheet metal on the front of these cars. The stock K member was designed to break away and let the chassis go over the top of the motor. No aftermarket manufacture of K-member clains stock like safety becasue they are meant for the race track, no where else.

jprovence said:

Have you even been in or seen a serious wreck up close. Do you know what happens when a two cars hit at 70mph in a head on collision? Its like hitting a wall at 140mph. Don't think the motor doesn't end up in your lap? These cars are not tanks. There is hardly any sheet metal on the front of these cars. The stock K member was designed to break away and let the chassis go over the top of the motor. No aftermarket manufacture of K-member clains stock like safety becasue they are meant for the race track, no where else.

Click to expand...

Have you seen a stock K-member removed from a car and understand the mounting locations for the engine and how it attaches to the front subframe? Obviously not otherwise you would clearly see that there is nothing that can break away on the K-member. The ONLY thing that could break away are the (4) approx 5/8 bolts holding the front section of the K-member in place and the (4) smaller 7/16 bolts where the rear of the K-member attaches to the back of the subframe. Those same bolts are used with aftermarket K-members so that means any K-member you put in there would sheer those bolts and break away the same.

As I said before the entire top of the stock K-member is one huge solid piece of stamped steel and that one piece connects at the mounting points and the engine mounts. Unless Ford has some innovative new way to create solid steel that falls apart on contact (maybe it's preferated like paper and you just can't see it) there is NO WAY it is going to break apart. Some of the lower front suspension could possibly break away but not the engine. Only the bolts could go.

Bill

You need to run an aftermarket caster camber plate with front coil overs, the strut tower brace doesn't add any stregth to the strut tower it just ties it all in.

Bill

Mustang92 said:

You need to run an aftermarket caster camber plate with front coil overs, the strut tower brace doesn't add any stregth to the strut tower it just ties it all in.

Bill

Click to expand...

Some kits do reccomend it, but it's usually the low quality E-Bay ones...

If it was nessecary big name shops would say so and make more coin.



This is the QA-1 side by side with the stocker

For the most part all aftermarket K-Members are similar. UPR, QA-1, and the new P whatever look VERY similar, the MM one is a bit more stout and heavier but still the same idea.

rear coil overs is your own pref.

I don't see the need on a DD/Track car