Valve Noise..

TheDukeOfEarl · Oct 22, 2009

Just so I am not one of the other posters here that just states facts with no backing. You can view the info here for your selves.

? for modular powered Mustang owners - Corner-Carvers Forums

The poster is Swhiteh3. I think you will see that his experence with cars is a little above most of the people that post here.

merc123 · Oct 23, 2009

I'm missing something here. The argument I've seen most is don't use 5w-20 use 5w-30. Also, Swhiteh3 doesn't impress me much. Anyone can get on the internet and claim they were this and that for Ford. Show me proof. Did you know I'm an electrical engineer for Boeing and it's ok to plug 110v equipment into 220, 3 phase? You just need to use 16awg wire. Boeing just said you can't because they knew that the efficiency of the electronic devices for 110 was cheaper on the electric bill than 220... See my point?

I did some additional reading though on oils...

At cold temperatures, the polymers are coiled up and allow the oil to flow as their low numbers indicate. As the oil warms up, the polymers begin to unwind into long chains that prevent the oil from thinning as much as it normally would. The result is that at 100 degrees C, the oil has thinned only as much as the higher viscosity number indicates. Another way of looking at multi-vis oils is to think of a 20W-50 as a 20 weight oil that will not thin more than a 50 weight would when hot.

So by this logic, the 5 means it will be at that weight while cold for both oils but as it heats up the 20 will not thin more than 20 and the 30 will not thin more than 30 weight. So that would mean that the 30 would be thicker oil... However, everyone is saying that the tighter clearances means you need a thinner oil. Soooo...5w-20 would be a better choice because the 5w is just thick enough to keep the engine lubed as opposed to the 0w and the 20 is thin enough when hot to keep it working with the clearances...

I mean, come on. Are you really arguing 20 vs. 30 weight oil? I run 25w-50 in my race car, some run 5w-30. My engine builder told me to run 25w-50. Why have engineers that tell Ford what oil to run then disregard them?

So which brand is better? Brad Penn or O'reilly's brand?

If you really want to know what's going on with the engine go get an oil analysis from Blackstone Labs. They told me my race car engine had some problems with trace metals. 2 races later it blew up (valvetrain issues, not oil related). These guys know what they're doing.

Kilgore Trout · Oct 23, 2009

TheDukeOfEarl said:
Now what is your info based on?

The owner's manual.

twogts4us · Oct 23, 2009

TheDukeOfEarl said:
Now what is your info based on?

Kilgore Trout said:
The owner's manual.

twogts4us · Oct 23, 2009

wmburns said:
I suspect this is going to ignite a firestorm (torque wrench), but……..

So the question is, do I use a torque wrench on my oil filter and / or oil drain plug? In all seriousness, this is an excellent POST!

TheDukeOfEarl · Oct 23, 2009

Kilgore Trout said:
The owner's manual.

Sheep! You go on doing what you do and I will stop posting on this pathetic site. 1/4 mile morons.

trombonedemon · Oct 24, 2009

TheDukeOfEarl said:
Sheep! You go on doing what you do and I will stop posting on this pathetic site. 1/4 mile morons.

Its not neccesarily being "sheeple"; insults are not neccesary at this point but, the older the car, the heavier weight of oil would be neccesary, parts do wear down. With that been said, cars have personalities like people, thats why we get lemons and others get great cars, you just have to know thy car. Can you honestly say that out over, lets say, 10,000 mustangs, every car is going to react the same to the same brand, the same weight, and so on and so fourth. What we have hear is a clone of the FORD/CHEVY debate, its "Beating a dead horse."

trombonedemon · Oct 24, 2009

twogts4us said:

Yea, I laughed too!

rpburnette · Oct 24, 2009

Holy Crap, I better switch to 5w-30 right now, I mean I only have 145,000 miles on my 02 and have used only 5w-20 since my first oil change.

If you think your engine (stock or mildly modified) is going to blow up b/c you use 5w-20 instead of 5w-30 than fine go ahead and use it, but don't tell that garbage to everyone else but it is not true. Where did I get my information, myself and my own car, see my first sentance.

Just b/c the person is an engineer doesn't make them right. Engineers are wrong all the time, I should I know I am one and I talk with engineers on a daily basis and given the same information and same data they will come up with up with different conclusions. Hence the debate of this thread. I am sure there are some Ford engineers that say use 5w-20 and some say use 5w-30. Which ones are correct, both.

jayrw · Oct 24, 2009

wmburns said:
My comments are assuming a late model (1999+) STOCK street driven 4.6 designed for 5W20 oil. Purpose built engines should use the oil recommended by your builder/manufacturer. Anything driven in a race application will have it's own set of requirements and adjustments should be made accordingly.

I suspect this is going to ignite a firestorm (torque wrench), but……..

Ford has designed the late model modular motors to run on 5W20 weight oil. The bearing clearances have been reduced in an effort to reduce internal friction losses (better mileage). As a result, thinner oil is needed to fully penetrate the bearings. The thinner oil is also needed to maintain adequate oil pressure in the top end (hydraulic lifters).

The bearing clearances change as the motor heats up. When cold, the clearances are very tight in locations with dis-similar metals. As the motor warms, the clearances open up. The thinner oil better protects these parts during warm up.

If you need an expert opinion on this, try reading Sean Hyland's book.

Amazon.com: How To Build Max-Performance 4.6-Liter Ford Engines (Cartech) (9781932494686): Sean Hyland: Books

It is also interesting the part about NEVER getting on your motor until it is warm/hot.

With regards to the noise on start up, it is a very common problem. Ford has a TSB on it. The noise comes from the timing chains. The noise goes away when the oil pressure comes up in the timing chain adjusters.

If the noise goes away within a few seconds after start up, it is a normal noise. You may find the noise takes a little longer to quiet down if the car is not driven every day. If driven every day, it may not make any noise at all.

Note, there are differences within the model years because Ford changed the design of the adjusters. The problem is more common in later model engines using the adjusters that do not "latch" as tight. The older adjusters have a prawl that holds the position without oil pressure.

For high mileage engines, be mindful that excessive wear on the timing chain tensioners can cause noise. If allowed to continue and wears past the plastic down to the metal, failure will result. Inspect the oil filter. Look for bits of plastic. If found, be concerned.

Ford has redesigned the adjusters/tensioners to reduce the noise. Recommend getting the lastest part should maintenance be done.

However, it is not a bad idea to use a premium oil filer. There really is a difference. I purchased an oil filter cutter. I was surprised to see how poorly constructed Fram oil filters really are. The difference is in the filter material and the drain back valve.

What confuses me with my 2000 GT is the manual says use 5W20 , The oil filler cap says 5W20, However there's a manufacture sticker under the hood that says use 5W30. (?)

Ive always ran 5W20 but I'm curious why there's a discrepancy.

Also my motor tends to make a lot of noise at higher rpm when the engine is cold, usually for the first 4-5 minutes, I just take it easy until its warmed up then the noise goes away completely.

Kilgore Trout · Oct 26, 2009

TheDukeOfEarl said:
Sheep! You go on doing what you do and I will stop posting on this pathetic site. 1/4 mile morons.

Sounds good

twogts4us · Oct 27, 2009

TheDukeOfEarl said:
Sheep! You go on doing what you do and I will stop posting on this pathetic site. 1/4 mile morons.

Buh-bye View attachment 241412

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