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  • 1994 - 1995 Specific Tech

Volt Meter Bouncing - Chasing an electrical issue

  • Thread starter Thread starter FastGT94
  • Start date Start date Oct 23, 2007
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Kevin Silva

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May 17, 2015
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May 18, 2015
#21
  • May 18, 2015
  • #21
Is there any way to fix it? Some people think I'm flashing them when I'm at a stop sign. lol

& I might just get the air bag check. See if the sound goes away.

I also have another question but I will wait until we're done with the first question if possible.

Thank you!
 

HISSIN50

"How long does it take to get help in here?
15 Year Member
Nov 29, 1999
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May 18, 2015
#22
  • May 18, 2015
  • #22
Kevin Silva said:
Is there any way to fix it? Some people think I'm flashing them when I'm at a stop sign. lol
Click to expand...

Except it only happens when I put my windows up.
Click to expand...

I'm confused. In the video it sounds like the PW button is being cycled (like a bored toddler would do). If that's the case, don't do that and the gauge/lights won't oscillate. If it was making clicking noises the entire time you were depressing the PW button, what was making the clicking noises? The clicking must be something loading and unloading.

To be clear, people only think you're flashing them at a stop sign if you're depressing the PW button?

It's always a good idea to clean all grounds (including the small ones in the front clip) and add an extra engine ground. Raising the idle speed can sometimes help mask the issue.
 
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Kevin Silva

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May 17, 2015
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May 18, 2015
#23
  • May 18, 2015
  • #23
It mostly happens when I press the PW button, But random times at stop signs when car is fully stopped it's like the car wants to turn off so the lights dim and battery gauge starts bouncing around. (It's never turned off on me)

There is a cable that it connected to the battery which is ground I suppose since it's black, It's just dangling around. I'll take a picture right now and post it up.

Which grounds should I clean? and where can I find them exactly?

Thank you!
 
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Kevin Silva

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May 17, 2015
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May 18, 2015
#24
  • May 18, 2015
  • #24

Here are the pictures, It was just hanging so I stuck it in a little hole which I think it came from.
Not sure where it goes.

(It goes to the black bolt on the right side next to the Washer only Fluid)
 
Last edited: May 18, 2015

Chythar

Recently finished repairing my rear
20+ Year Stangneter
Aug 26, 2004
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Foothill Ranch, CA
May 18, 2015
#25
  • May 18, 2015
  • #25
I believe you have an extra wire that probably shouldn't be there. I only have two wires coming from the negative terminal; one goes to the grommet to the right side of your pic, and the other leads...somewhere. I did some wire hiding so it's harder to trace wires now. Here's my negative terminal:

 
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Kevin Silva

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May 17, 2015
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May 19, 2015
#26
  • May 19, 2015
  • #26
Ahhh yes! On my picture you can see one extra hole which is where that extra wire goes connected. I will do it tomorrow. You fixed my problem!!

Another question- When I get on and off my car there's this squeak noise. Also going over speed bumps.

When changing gears from 'P' to 'D' or 'R' to 'D' there's this crack noise.
Car is automatic if I haven't pointed that out.

Video: View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6-CZ1ptr2fs
 

toyman

10 Year Member
Jul 19, 2007
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Vernon BC
May 19, 2015
#27
  • May 19, 2015
  • #27
Chythar said:
I believe you have an extra wire that probably shouldn't be there. I only have two wires coming from the negative terminal; one goes to the grommet to the right side of your pic, and the other leads...somewhere. I did some wire hiding so it's harder to trace wires now. Here's my negative terminal:

Click to expand...

From the battery should be a 2 ga or larger cable to the engine and probably a 10 ga to the chassis where shown in the photo. You also need at least a 2 ga from the engine to the chassis to ensure that all other grounds have a good return path.
 

HISSIN50

"How long does it take to get help in here?
15 Year Member
Nov 29, 1999
31,179
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May 19, 2015
#28
  • May 19, 2015
  • #28
Nice info from Matt and Richard.

How low is your idle? If it's too low, you can see the behavior you describe. If you have doubts, [while safely in a parking lot or other area with no hazards] get it to act up while idling and goose the gas a little to bump the idle to 700-800 and see if the issue diminishes.
 

Chythar

Recently finished repairing my rear
20+ Year Stangneter
Aug 26, 2004
2,373
140
113
Foothill Ranch, CA
May 19, 2015
#29
  • May 19, 2015
  • #29
Kevin Silva said:
Ahhh yes! On my picture you can see one extra hole which is where that extra wire goes connected. I will do it tomorrow. You fixed my problem!!

Another question- When I get on and off my car there's this squeak noise. Also going over speed bumps.

When changing gears from 'P' to 'D' or 'R' to 'D' there's this crack noise.
Car is automatic if I haven't pointed that out.
Click to expand...

If you can cause the squeak just by pushing that corner of the car down, the squeak is coming from your suspension. When was the last time you changed out the shocks?
 
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Kevin Silva

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May 17, 2015
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May 19, 2015
#30
  • May 19, 2015
  • #30
My idle is just around 1000 rpm. I just changed the battery cable to where your battery is connected. Where can I get a pair of those connectors so it's easier to tighten the screws?

Also about the squeak, I don't think previous owners changed anything on the poor car since it came out.

I will probably need to look into that as well, Do you know a good brand?

I'm upgrading the Wheels/Tires in a few months.
 
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Kevin Silva

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May 17, 2015
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May 19, 2015
#31
  • May 19, 2015
  • #31
Also, What's the best way to clean the whole engine? There's like dirt and leafs around the engine area.
 
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