Warning! long thread! Input wanted!

[BlueJoker]

Long @$$ thread alert!!
The following is a result of a few hours of research here on stangnet, as well as various other mustang sites and magazines. Please, any input and/or corrections to the content would be VERY APPRECIATED!!!! The labor costs are only my best guesses so by all means flame away if they are way out of whack.

side note: skip the begining stuff and go strait to the lists, for explanations of what each 'stage' is.

Estimated Costs For Car Build up
Tax is included on Labor and Parts @ 6%
Shipping for parts is not included in estimates​

Stage 1:

Parts 5,500.00
Labor 2,000.00
Tax 450.00
Total 7,950.00 or about 8grand

Stage 2:

Parts 7,600.00
Labor 2,500.00
Tax 610.00
Total 10,710.00 or about 11 grand

Stage 3:

Parts 11,600.00
Labor 3,200.00
Tax 1,020.00
Total 15,688.00 or about 16 grand

Stage 4:

Parts 22,000.00
Labor 4,500.00
Tax 1,590.00
Total 28,090.00 about 30 grand


Stage 1 Option Package

Engine: 3,800.00

KB 1.7 kit @ 6PSI

Exhaust: 1,500.00

Magnaflow catted X
Magnaflow cat back
Re-Install Headers w/stock gaskets and fasteners

Suspension: 250.00

STEEDA Strut Tower Brace

Drivetrain: 250.00

Re-Install 3.27 Gears

Appearance: 250.00

Black Le Mans Stripes

EXPECTED RESULTS:

435 Flywheel HP or roughly 340 Rear Wheel HP
0-60 in about 5 sec
12’s at the 1320 (street tires, full weight)
20-25 MPG
Somewhat Durable NO short term weakness.

EXPECTED COST: $5,500.00 Plus Tax & Labor


Stage 2 Option Package

Engine: 4,800.00

KB INTERCOOLED KIT @ 9PSI

Exhaust: 1,500.00

Magnaflow catted X
Magnaflow cat back
Re-Install Headers w/stock gaskets and fasteners

Suspension: 800.00

Tokico non adjustable struts
Full Length Subframe Connectors
STEEDA Strut Tower Brace

Drivetrain: 250.00

Re-Install 3.27 Gears

Appearance: 250.00

Black Le Mans Stripes

EXPECTED RESULTS:

500 Flywheel HP or roughly 400 Rear Wheel HP
0-60 in about 4.5 sec
11.5 - 12’s at the 1320 (street tires, full weight)
18-24 MPG
Very Durable Weak point is the TRANSMISSION/REAR END
THIS SETUP IS INTERCOOLED

EXPECTED COST: $ 7,600.00 Plus tax & labor


Stage 3 Option Package
Engine: 6,500.00

VT Engineering FORGED Rod/Piston Kit (http://www.vtengines.com/46Ford.htm)
KB INTERCOOLED KIT @ 14PSI

Exhaust: 2,500.00

Magnaflow catted X
Magnaflow cat back
SLP Longtube Headers

Suspension: 1,000.00

Tokico non adjustable struts
Full Length Subframe Connectors
STEEDA UCA’s & LCA’s
STEEDA Strut Tower Brace

Drivetrain: 2,000.00

Fully Fortified/Refreshed FORD 4R70W AODE
Baer Front Brake Upgrade
Re-Install 3.27 Gears

Appearance: 800.00

Roush Front Bumper
Black Le Mans Stripes
GT500 Along side skirts like the 67-69 Shelby’s

EXPECTED RESULTS:

550 Flywheel HP or roughly 450 Rear Wheel HP
0-60 in less than 4.5 sec
16-22 MPG
11’s at the 1320 (street tires, full weight)
Durable
Heads and cams will be limiting factors in HP production
THIS SETUP IS INTERCOOLED

EXPECTED COST: $ 13,500 Plus tax & labor


Stage 4 Option Package

Engine: 8,500.00

VT Engineering 4.6 shortblock forged and stroked to 302 ci.
KB INTERCOOLED 2.2 LITER KIT @ 18+ PSI

Exhaust: 2,500.00

Magnaflow catted X
Magnaflow cat back
SLP Longtube Headers

Suspension: 2,500.00
Tockico non adjustable struts
Full Length Subframe Connectors
Rollcage
Rear Seat Delete
STEEDA Strut Tower Brace
STEEDA 5 link 2

Drivetrain: 6,500.00

Fully Fortified/Refreshed FORD 4R70W AODE
2800 stall STALLION Torque Converter (Precision Industries)
MOSER 31 Spline Axles
SALEEN MAXGRIP limited slip differential
Baer Front Brake Upgrade
Install 3.55 Gears
18x9.5 Rims w/ NITTO 555’s

Appearance: 2,000.00

Full Roush 380R Body kit
Cobra R Hood (needed to clear 2.2 ltr KB)
Black Le Mans Stripes
GT500 Along side skirts like the 67-69 Shelby’s

EXPECTED RESULTS:

650 Flywheel HP or roughly 520 Rear Wheel HP
0-60 in less than 4.5 sec
16-22 MPG
10-11.5 1320 runs (street tires, full weight)
Durable
Heads and cams will be limiting factors in HP production
SETUP IS INTERCOOLED

EXPECTED COST: $ 22,000.00 Plus tax & labor

 

[madmatt]

I guess it really depends on what exactly you want to do with your car. To me, im NEVER going to spend 22k on a GT. To me is is WAY smarted to go ahead and find a nice used 03 or 04 cobra that is already built to handle the boost than to put twice as much as a BRAND SPANKING NEW Gt is worth into a GT. If it were my money and I really wanted to keep my 2V, then Id prolly just go with a KB 9lb kit and upgrade the smaller stuff here and there like clutch, and some of the smaller suspension stuff. Get a good tune and you should be good to go but I cant see spending 22g's on a KB'd 2v. Good luck with whatever you decide to do. If you really want to keep your car, then go for it, but dont EVER expect to get anything near what you put into it, back out of it if you ever decide to sell it. 22k is a dang car...

 

[ironmedic]

dude if u are gonna spend that kind of cash, go buy an 03/04 cobra and just upgrade the pulley, you will instantly have like 400+ HP/TQ without even doing anything. hell the block is already set for modding, might as well go that path!

 

[4.6_02_Black_GT]

For the kind of money you are talking...there is an easier way.


Sean Hyland Motorsports....

600HP 4.6 4valve crate motor with a KB

17,000 plus install labor.


http://www.seanhylandmotorsport.com/mustang-crate-engines.shtml

 

[BlueJoker]

I guess i should have stated that I plan on keeping the car as it has a sentimental value to me and my dad. The car was in a way a gift from his mom to me and she has since passed away. Its the car that I'll keep and eventually restore, (20-25 years down the road) and give to my kid. The car is nearly paid off, and with my age (21 on the 16th) the insurance rates on an svt arent something i can afford. I dont plan on doing all these things at once mind you, just over a longer strectch of time. And I wanted to get feel for what I eventually plan to put in the car, and to also know if the results I expect are resonable. Its not that im just gonna go get a loan and dump 22k into the car and call it a day, right now the car is my daily driver and I cant see myself driving around in a 600RWHP car to work and school every day.

Thanks for everyones Input!!!

 

[BlueJoker]

4.6_02_Black_GT

For the kind of money you are talking...there is an easier way.


Sean Hyland Motorsports....

600HP 4.6 4valve crate motor with a KB

17,000 plus install labor.


http://www.seanhylandmotorsport.com...e-engines.shtml

Much appreciation for the link, I didnt think to check there!!!

 

[AirWolf87]

Upon reading that I would say you are crazy the obvious would be to buy a cobra, but seeing how you do plan to keep the car around, go for it. The only reason i would tell you not to do it is bc you will never see that money back. But if you got that kindda money to blow and love the car that much do it.....just giveme a heads up if i ever see you at the track

 

[madmatt]

Well now that I know your intentions, I say go for it, but do it from the ground up. Do like the others said and build the car first and then go to the power. If you go ahead and get the suspension, and all the other vital parts that most people dont remember to change when they go to make a lot of power, you'll be fine. Have you thought about buying a used cobra engine like a 99-01 engine? That would be a good thing to do unless you wanted to just do like a big bore stroker mod motor. Just research it a lot and do it right the first time. Ive heard some pretty shady stuff about SHM so none of my money would go there. Vt engines and MPH (formerly T&J) would get all of my money if I was going to build a car. You should look into them because they both have a pretty much cult like following on here and Ive heard nothing but the best about them. Good luck man.

 

[white99gt]

Personally i would shop from someone besides SHM.Scotty and the boys at VT make some good engines..

But on to the subject..Looks like a lot of your stuff is planned out..But it can be done cheap if you do a lot of it yourself..

I got less in mine than the purchase cost of a stock cobra (includes purchase cost of the car)..Nice hp can be found on as long as you stick to your plans..

I suggest starting with the suspension,look mods first..This is stuff that can be done on a pretty quick turn around basis..
If wanting big power.I suggest getting another motor(junkyard or from a reputable company) and have it built to your specs while you are still enjoying the car n/a( i went this way)..Get all the pieces for your build up(motor blower,fuel setup,tranny etc.) in one place .Then have it all swapped over at once.This keeps down time to a min...

 

[ironmedic]

if the car has sentimental value, why modify it from the original?

in my opinion, the money u are looking to spend (spread out) is a bit much for a GT. i still think that kind of money should be put towards a cobra or something else. when u turn 24/25 your insurance rate should go down some. that is assuming you dont get into accidents.

i would keep it pretty basic with that GT since it has sentimental value. just do intake/exhaust/gears.

 

[BlueJoker]

IronMedic
if the car has sentimental value, why modify it from the original?

in my opinion, the money u are looking to spend (spread out) is a bit much for a GT. i still think that kind of money should be put towards a cobra or something else. when u turn 24/25 your insurance rate should go down some. that is assuming you dont get into accidents.

i would keep it pretty basic with that GT since it has sentimental value. just do intake/exhaust/gears.

You make an excellent point. Original is good. The car could stay the same as the day i got it off the show room floor. You never forget that feeling when you drive it home for the first time. Not the route I want to go, but an excellent point none the less.

 

[dbucfan]

You make an excellent point. Original is good. The car could stay the same as the day i got it off the show room floor. You never forget that feeling when you drive it home for the first time. Not the route I want to go, but an excellent point none the less.

is their a horsepower calculator? a ton of posts i have read state an exact hp rating when using so and so parts on so and so year stang, as in this thread. BTW go mild for the long haul...you stated it yourself...a daily driven 600 hp monster to last 20 years or more sounds kinda risky.