Went to the strip today...Good & Bad news

coolblue65 · Sep 7, 2009

First the Good news, I was finally able to get my drag radials (235 BFG's) on and get to the track, and I really improved my times, although I still have a lot to gain in my 60'.

1st Run
(20 PSI in tires)
R/T ... .200
60' ... 2.034
330 ... 5.438
1/8 ... 8.263
MPH ... 88.83
1000 ... 10.694
1/4 ... 12.757
MPH ... 109.60

2nd Run
(18 PSI)
R/T ... .273
60' ... 2.021
330 ... 5.404
1/8 ... 8.240
MPH ... 88.39
1000 ... 10.667
1/4 ... 12.746
MPH ... 108.86

So the bad 3rd run, I never left the line because my custom made 3.5" drive shaft decided to let go:

It looks like it was just welded poorly, thoughts?

Funny thing is I'm not to mad about it breaking because I have finally started to get some respectable times.

chris66dad · Sep 7, 2009

Good times on the runs!
The welds look like they did not have good penetration.
My aluminum shaft has welds that are twice as wide as the one in the pictures. It is made by Coleman and sold through Street or Track in any length you need for $299.
Here are pics of it on my webpage: Drive shaft.

Good Luck and Be Safe
Ron

EP429 · Sep 7, 2009

How much weld was actually on the joint? Looks like most of it was on the shaft instead of where the two meet

tx65coupe · Sep 8, 2009

The times are good. That sucks about the failure. Whose driveshaft is it?

coolblue65 · Sep 8, 2009

tx65coupe said:
The times are good. That sucks about the failure. Whose driveshaft is it?

I had the driveshaft made by a local driveline shop. Its been awhile since I bought it, and there is no warranty that I remember, but I am going to take it into the shop this week and show it to them and see what there response is, as it appears that the failure was 100% a result of their workmanship.

10secgoal · Sep 8, 2009

AC welding is pretty weak. But there isn't enough fillet on the yoke side. Have welded AL drive shafts before and 2 of them have twisted under a load, but never broke the weld.

66forfun · Sep 8, 2009

My driveshaft guy told me to stay away from the aluminum shafts and go for 3.5" moly. I trusted him and ditched the areostar shaft cut to the right size idea. No problems since.

hungrymonkey · Sep 8, 2009

Nice times.

I did just realize that I have been spending to much time in the off topic sections. Because it took me a minute to realize what type of strip you were talking about when I saw the title...

ga289stocker · Sep 9, 2009

Nice times. Judging by your 109 trap speed you have low 12 sec capability. Just need more practice on the BFG's. When you starting hitting 1.8x's or so 60 times those ET's will be a droppin. I can't recall what Trans you run. Stick or Auto? Again nice times, sorry to see the carniage.

rbohm · Sep 9, 2009

coolblue65 said:
First the Good news, I was finally able to get my drag radials (235 BFG's) on and get to the track, and I really improved my times, although I still have a lot to gain in my 60'.

1st Run
(20 PSI in tires)
R/T ... .200
60' ... 2.034
330 ... 5.438
1/8 ... 8.263
MPH ... 88.83
1000 ... 10.694
1/4 ... 12.757
MPH ... 109.60

2nd Run
(18 PSI)
R/T ... .273
60' ... 2.021
330 ... 5.404
1/8 ... 8.240
MPH ... 88.39
1000 ... 10.667
1/4 ... 12.746
MPH ... 108.86

these are good numbers, and quite consistent. i would like to see your 60ft times closer to a high 1.8 range though, but i think you will get there in time.

So the bad 3rd run, I never left the line because my custom made 3.5" drive shaft decided to let go:

It looks like it was just welded poorly, thoughts?

Funny thing is I'm not to mad about it breaking because I have finally started to get some respectable times.

the weld looks like a cold weld with very little penetration.

coolblue65 · Sep 9, 2009

Thanks for the positive comments, I have been waiting for a long time to start getting some decent times on this car (considering all the money spent!) its also a nice pride booster that I can smoke my old man's C5 Vette!

I would like to see myself in the 1.8's too, I was really hoping to get into the 1.9x's on Monday. Out of curiosity how does a .1 second improvement in '60 translate to the 1/4 ET?

ga289stocker- I run a Tremec 3550, it has the lower 3.27 first gear ratio instead of the 2.98, and I have 3.55 rear gears.

10secgoal · Sep 9, 2009

Maybe 2 tenths, maybe more. That MPH is a good sign. That's good for low 12's definitely, 11's if you drive like you stole it. Would imagine low 1.7, even 1.6's might be possible with good traction
Weird you broke with those 60's though. Second time I have seen an AL DS go with 60's in the 2.0's. hmmm

blown65 · Sep 9, 2009

10secgoal said:
Maybe 2 tenths, maybe more. That MPH is a good sign. That's good for low 12's definitely, 11's if you drive like you stole it. Would imagine low 1.7, even 1.6's might be possible with good traction
Weird you broke with those 60's though. Second time I have seen an AL DS go with 60's in the 2.0's. hmmm

Agree, should run 1.7's with no issues with those times. 1.8's or slower are, well slow for those et's/mph.

Vinyl66 · Sep 11, 2009

Way to dip into the 12's! It's always a plus when you beat your previous best.

2.0 second 60's are way slow for a 12.7 et. Sounds like you need to launch much harder. Well, when you get a driveshaft that will hold up.

That sux about the driveshaft. Nothing should ever break with over 2 second 60 footers. Bad weld! Bad!

coolblue65 · Sep 11, 2009

now i am just debating if i should put my steal driveshaft back in with new u-joints and run it for awhile, or if I should spend $400 and get a new drive shaft right away.

Vinyl66- It was only my first time on the drag radials and I really wasn't sure how to launch it. My last clean run I had the tires at 18psi, i did a fairly short burn out, and was holding ~3000 RPMs at the line, after the light goes green I didn't get 100% into the throttle until I was already rolling for a bit (I think that is a habbit I got into because of my street tires and them breaking loose at low speeds with full throttle). Long story short, I have a lot to practice.

js66coupe · Sep 11, 2009

If you're going to the drag strip, get a suitable driveshaft. If you're just going to cruise around town for a while, a stock driveshaft should be fine. For drag racing, esp. when using sticky tires, I like to use a well made steel driveshaft with a safety loop. Denny's driveshafts is one of several places that makes a good quality piece--for the reason listed below, from their website.

"We stand behind all of our Heavy Duty driveshafts....so remember "IF YOU EVER TWIST OUR TUBING OR BREAK OUR WELDS...WE'LL REPLACE IT FREE!!!"

ForceFed70 · Sep 13, 2009

So was that a shortened aerostar driveshaft? Looks too clean to be a used piece?

If it was an aerostar shaft, it's nice to see that even in the 12's, it was the weld that let go instead of a twisted tube.

coolblue65 · Sep 13, 2009

ForceFed70 said:
So was that a shortened aerostar driveshaft? Looks too clean to be a used piece?

If it was an aerostar shaft, it's nice to see that even in the 12's, it was the weld that let go instead of a twisted tube.

No its a custom made 3.5" one from a local driveline shop, ran me about $400.

Z06killinSBF · Sep 13, 2009

A steel shaft will be better for the stick on launches. May help you get off the line harder.

57fairlane · Sep 13, 2009

ever had the car on a dyno?

88mph through the 1/8 seems a little low for that setup . . .

Went to the strip today...Good & Bad news

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