were is my spout conector ?

Your car would be identical to mine (before I did the 2 barrel conversion) so it should be in the exact same place as it was on mine. Looking at your distributor, you have the TFI module on it. Follow the wiring harness that comes out of it. There should be a small connector there (they used a few styles around that era so I can't say for sure what it's going to look like). If the harness is covered in that black plastic split-loom wiring, look for a fat spot as someone may have tucked it in there. You'll know if you disconnect the right one because your engine will no longer advance the timing.

To answer your questions:

There are a few wires running right around that area that are all sort of the same color (age changes white wires to a yellow color). You have a wire leading from the back of your alternator to your choke. A line is spliced in and runs to the choke relay (relay mounted directly below your voltage regulator on your right apron). Your throttle position sensor wires run through there, but I doubt that's it. Your charging harness is back there too, but other than the choke power wire, there shouldn't be any splices. Your temperature sender wire (for your dash gauge) also runs through that area, but I am unaware of a splice in that wire. The other wire that it could be, is there is supposed to be a purge canister valve there. Looking at your PCV valve, there should be 3 hoses, 2 big, 1 little. The one big one goes to your crankcase (connects into a breather under the intake), the other big one snakes around a vacuum tap in the intake and connects into your EGR emissions spacer below the carburetor. The third and smallest line should come straight up out of the valve and go into the purge canister valve. Following that line from the other side of the valve would take you down to your charcoal canister on the right frame rail. There is also a connection in that line that leads to your fuel bowl vent. All that said, that would be the only electrical connections in that area. As for your thermactor air injection system, that hose coming from the pump would go to a diverter valve. That valve is controlled by vacuum signals from solenoids located behind your coolant overflow tank, under the MAP sensor. The diverter valve would either dump air to the atmosphere, divert it to your exhaust manifold (look for a valve or capped off connection there) or down to your converter. (your line coming up from the converter, should have a check valve on the end of it). Not having it operational really won't hurt much except for emissions. What carburetor did I use? I backdated to the full setup from a 1980 Capri. It came with a Motorcraft 5200 (Basically a Weber DFEV) and Duraspark ignition. I used the Duraspark distributor, but instead of wiring in the Duraspark ignition box, I bought adapter harnesses and plugged the distributor directly into an MSD 6A box and plugged that directly into the already-existing EEC IV TFI coil. Makes for one powerful ignition and a good running carburetor. I plan on eventually putting an actual Weber DFEV on it. Should gain some HP (nominal, but worth it) and some fuel economy then.

It did seem to give it a small boost in power, mostly above 2500rpms. I have an automatic transmission that I desperately want to replace with a T5. The main reason I did the 2 barrel conversion and duraspark conversion was so I can have complete control over fuel and ignition. You can adjust the advance and rate of advance on a duraspark distributor and you can make a lot more adjustments on the Motorcraft 5200 than the Carter YFA feedback 1 barrel carb. As for getting a Weber, I would only need the carburetor itself (about 275 bucks) as it is what the Motorcraft 5200 is based off of (early versions of the Motorcraft 5200 were identical to the Weber DFEV except for the throttle linkage and fuel inlet). Getting parts for the Motorcraft 5200 are getting really hard (and expensive!!) to get as well. So I'm kind of up in the air about what I want to do carb-wise.

Dumb question, but I've got to ask, you are pumping the gas pedal (at least once to the floor) before attempting to start it? If you are, then I would say either the choke is not adjusted properly or the carb needs a rebuild. Mine started on the first shot and idled at 2000rpms until you kicked it down (then it ran at 1500rpms until you put it in drive). As for the T5's versus the C3 automatics, having an automatic is a lose-lose situation on the 79-86 2.3's. With it came only the 3 gears, a non-locking torque converter, and worst of all, a 3.27 rear. Now, with the T5 (available from 83-88 on 2.3 turbos and 87-93 2.3's) you not only get 5 gears instead of 3, but there is no power loss because of converter slip as in the automatics, AND you get a 3.45 rear axle ratio, which, because the T5 has 5th as overdrive, can be bumped up to a 3.73 rear ratio without having the engine revving to hard on the highway. I plan on doing that someday- Getting a T5 and then putting a limited slip 3.73 rear behind it out of a ranger, bronco, or aerostar.

That does sound like your spout connector. Almost sounds like your ignition switch is going bad.