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What do I need for 347??

  • Thread starter Thread starter sick95gt
  • Start date Start date Sep 19, 2005
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sick95gt

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  • Sep 19, 2005
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This is my situation. I have a blown headgasket on my 302. I got a 302 from Central Coast Mustang about 2 years ago and just recently starting doing mods. Well, I decided to get Edelbrock Performer heads while I was going to fix the headgasket. I just sent out my money order to Ed Curtis to grind a custom cam for my current set up, but I am now wondering if I should just get a 347 block at the same time that I do my heads. I saw a DSS 347 for ike $925. What else do I need to make this swap happen? I know my RPM II intake will work well with the 347. But I guess my main thing is what else do I need to get? Do I need to change pistons, injectors, get a bigger tb, maybe different heads, etc...??? I just don't really feel like doing a swap later, but at the same time, I don't know how much more $$$ I'll have to spend to do the swap now. How much more than the $925 for the block will I have to spend? What things can I keep from my current set up? If I go 347, it doesn't have to be the best combo in the world, but not a waste either. I know it will have a lot more torque than my 302, but is it worth the extra money? I would like it to be nice for street driving and occasionally take it to the strip. Sorry this is so long, I just need to know from everyone who has done the swap so I can either keep my order for my cam, or to let Ed know that there will be changes. Thanks for any replies.
 

sonicblue87lx

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#2
  • Sep 19, 2005
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Well you can go about it two ways.. Take your block you have now and have it machined to a 347 or buy a Rotating assy already so all you need is your heads, intake ect.. Personally Id buy a block from a company then you know you have a strong block being Stock when you hit that 500 mark your starting to push buttons.
My engine cost me about 3200 after all said and done thats heads, cam, block work the whole 9 yards. So just depends on what your willing to spend and how fast you want to go. if you see in my profile what number im puttin down and i beat most cars i race now im going with a blower due that i want to be over the 400 mark to the wheels.. All said and done it comes down to the cash and if your willing.. you want it buy it thats the best way to look at it
 

sick95gt

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#3
  • Sep 19, 2005
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Cool, well that answers the other question I was gonna ask about keeping my 302 block and working it. ok, so basically, that $3200 was including the h/c/i, cam and block. So, if I already have all that, does that mean I can use all my other accy's and pistons and stufff and have someone swap it all if I get a new 347 bare block? If so, then the $925 I gotta spend on the block seems definately worth it to me. One of the main reasons I want to swap the block is cause I don't want to guess at whether of not I damaged my block when I overheated it and blew the head gasket. Also, would the mods I have in my sig work well with the 347, considering I need to be able to drive it on the street and maybe see a track once in a while?
 

nmcgrawj

Advanced Member
Sep 28, 2003
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Sep 19, 2005
#4
  • Sep 19, 2005
  • #4
sonicblue87lx said:
Personally Id buy a block from a company then you know you have a strong block being Stock when you hit that 500 mark your starting to push buttons.
Click to expand...


Unless you go Dart or one of those other EXPENSIVE blocks...its no stronger than stock. Just because these company's "massage" them over...they are STILL a stock block.


And i think there is a little confusion here....a 347 "block" is just a 302 bored over and knotched for the stroker assembly. Its a new crank and new rods and pistons. It will definately be cheaper to do it now because if you wait till later you will be buying parts and services twice.

You can use your block, get a rotating assembly for about $1000. Get your block machined. But then you gotta(not a must but its better) get a 28oz flywheel and balancer.

Theres alot of stuff you "Could" do...search around for 347 or stroker and im sure you will come up with a lot of similar threads.
 

Grn92LX

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  • Sep 19, 2005
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Nate hit the nail on the head.

I just did a 347, its pretty expensive to do. Its more than just buying your $950 dss kit. I would stick with a scat assembly.
 

Dbeck002

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Sep 19, 2005
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  • Sep 19, 2005
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sonicblue i dont mean to be lame but why are you only making 310 at the wheels with that 347? something doesnt sount right.
 

Grn92LX

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Dbeck002 said:
sonicblue i dont mean to be lame but why are you only making 310 at the wheels with that 347? something doesnt sount right.
Click to expand...

Look @ his combo, street heat intake and a stage 1 camshaft. He probably has 1 5/8" shortys too.

sonic, I would not use that tfs 2 cam. If you dont want custom, i'd use an afm blower cam.

Check this out taken from Ed Curtis's feedback section: "Jarett here,

You may remember I'm running a CHP-347, Twisted Wedge heads, Edelbrock RPM EFI, and the Stage One TFS cam.
I dynoed (after tuning) at 312 rwhp and 348 rwtq.

Then I changed to your cam and went to a bigger exhaust as per your instruction (from 1 5/8 shorty to a 1 3/4 LT). With no other changes, I just dynoed today at 373 rwhp 383 rwtq. A gain of 61 rwhp and 35 rwtq.

Thanks a million - It was well worth every penny. "
 

nmcgrawj

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Sep 28, 2003
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#8
  • Sep 19, 2005
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Grn92LX said:
Look @ his combo, street heat intake and a stage 1 camshaft. He probably has 1 5/8" shortys too.

sonic, I would not use that tfs 2 cam. If you dont want custom, i'd use an afm blower cam.

Check this out taken from Ed Curtis's feedback section: "Jarett here,

You may remember I'm running a CHP-347, Twisted Wedge heads, Edelbrock RPM EFI, and the Stage One TFS cam.
I dynoed (after tuning) at 312 rwhp and 348 rwtq.

Then I changed to your cam and went to a bigger exhaust as per your instruction (from 1 5/8 shorty to a 1 3/4 LT). With no other changes, I just dynoed today at 373 rwhp 383 rwtq. A gain of 61 rwhp and 35 rwtq.

Thanks a million - It was well worth every penny. "
Click to expand...





I was just gonna say....as the saying goes, "Put 302 parts on a stroker and get 302 power with a little better torque."
 

Modular2v

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#9
  • Sep 19, 2005
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stroking it alone should give you 80ftlbs of torque and around 40hp
 

nmcgrawj

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#10
  • Sep 19, 2005
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Modular2v said:
stroking it alone should give you 80ftlbs of torque and around 40hp
Click to expand...


Its not that easy...perfect example right above. Stroker with wrong parts = no power gain.
 

90mustangGT

I felt sorry for girls because
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#11
  • Sep 19, 2005
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The 347 will make more power even with the same components. It will definatly increase the average hp/tq through the range. As we know, peak numbers are for bragging to ignorant people. You won't "need" to do anything except change the bottom end of the motor, you can worry about larger heads and such later on down the road. Build up the foundation right, add onto the house later.
 

Grn92LX

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90mustangGT said:
Build up the foundation right, add onto the house later.
Click to expand...


 

nmcgrawj

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  • Sep 19, 2005
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90mustangGT said:
The 347 will make more power even with the same components. It will definatly increase the average hp/tq through the range. As we know, peak numbers are for bragging to ignorant people. You won't "need" to do anything except change the bottom end of the motor, you can worry about larger heads and such later on down the road. Build up the foundation right, add onto the house later.
Click to expand...


You are right...i was gonna add "better power curves" to my above post but was too lazy. I do agree though...build the foundation right while you are in there.

On my car for example, i didnt want to stroke it for another 1.5-2 years but i gotta go into the shortblock now soooooooo....STROKER HERE I COME!
 

Grn92LX

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Stop lying Nate, you 'stroke it' every day
 

Lyncher

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Grn92LX said:
Stop lying Nate, you 'stroke it' every day
Click to expand...


whats wrong with that? lol
 

90mustangGT

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It's all about cost. However $$:HP ratio is in favor for the stroker.

It also depends on what you already have and plan to do. The Machine work to rebuild the 302 into a 306 would be more because although the block machining would be about the same process, the only thing you would have to do is notch the bottom of the cylinders, if you re-use the stock crank your going to have to get it cleaned, turned, pollished. Even with your rods, your going to have to get the stock pistons pressed off, cleaned, new rod bolts ect, your still going to need pistons, rings, berrings and all. Are you going to throw that stock balancer on the new motor? Compare the price of this to getting a stroker kit. This is the delema I have been going through and I am in contact with Rick 91GT. I have a 306 ready to run, except the pistons are not for TFS heads and not the compression I was looking for either. So, after looking at the price of new pistons, rings, rodbolts (builder did not use ARP ) I was starring at $700 or so. Crank, rods, and an extra 41 cubes for $300 extra.... no brianer. I might have to get a new flywheel and balancer, but I can sell my Romac, might as well get a SFI flywheel anyways, or Rick was saying I could just have it balanced to 50oz. I know for a fact that if I went with the 306, I will think "imagine if it was a 347!!!" and kick myself every single time.
 

sick95gt

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  • Sep 20, 2005
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ok, so now I might be leaning towards keeping the 302 I have now and getting a stroker 347 kit. I was just gonna get a new block since they say they can balance it and since my block might be damaged right now. So, what I am gathering from all this is that I should get a kit, keep my block and get new pistons, rods, bearings, and all that I need to make it work ok. And everything else can stay the same , at least for now. But if I really want to make a huge power increase over my 302, I need to probably get bigger heads, injectors, MAF, fuel pump, etc...... I guess this really all depends on what 90mustangGT said about how much I wanna spend and plan to do. It sounds like it's gonna be way more than I thought if I gotta change the above things to get the best out of the stroker. Damn, I gotta make decisions..... and more money
 

Rick 91GT

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#18
  • Sep 20, 2005
  • #18
A 347 on your above combo would make a ton of bottom end torque, but it will lack PEAK HP with those heads, no matter what cam is in the motor.

If I can help with info or anything let me know....

A good cast crank stroker assembly should hold 600-650HP....more then a stock block
 

90mustangGT

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  • Sep 20, 2005
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You have GT40's on it right now, edelbrocks sitting on the shelf, why not sell both and get some AFR or TFS's? Like I said, all the prep and machine work on the stock internals, then getting new pistons, rings, berrings, bolts, ect your looking at a price comparable to the stroker kit. Yes, it will cost more than the 306 to build, but the power of the 41 extra cubes and the room to grow... why not?
 

Grn92LX

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90mustangGT said:
You have GT40's on it right now, edelbrocks sitting on the shelf, why not sell both and get some AFR or TFS's?
Click to expand...

Sell both and buy victor jr's if you go 347. You'll be swaping valve springs depending on the cam.
 
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