What else could it be? am I forgetting something?

THC420 · Jun 1, 2005

Ive replaced my rotors, wheel bearings, tie rods (inner and outer) and my ball joints. when i do the 12 and 6 o'clock test i get a very little movement, just enough to make a metal to metal sound when i wiggle it from 12 to 6 and back.

what the hell else could it be? ive replaced everything i listed above. :damnit:

any and all input is greatly appreciated!

stang22 · Jun 1, 2005

What do all of your front bushings look like to include the steering rack bushings?

Tim

THC420 · Jun 1, 2005

the bushings all look fine, what would i be looking for in a bad bushing?

rd · Jun 1, 2005

Check the rag joint on the steering, and make sure the brake calipers are not making this noise.

stang22 · Jun 1, 2005

THC420 said:
the bushings all look fine, what would i be looking for in a bad bushing?

What year is the car and when were the last time the bushings were replaced? If they are the stock bushings, they will be cracked, dried and worn out.

Tim

THC420 · Jun 1, 2005

stang22 said:
What year is the car and when were the last time the bushings were replaced? If they are the stock bushings, they will be cracked, dried and worn out.

Tim

The car is a 1991. What bushings are worn out do you think?

MUSTANGJOE · Jun 1, 2005

Isnt the 12 to 6 o'clock movement normal? Is this the problem or am I looking like an idiot here?..

THC420 · Jun 1, 2005

i dont know if its normal. i dont think it is. anyone?

stang22 · Jun 1, 2005

Is you have any "up and down" slack, that is not normal. Left to right slack (very minimal) may be ok. Double check the torque on the wheel bearings. Up and down slack ussually means ball joints or the bearings are bad or loose.

Tim

EDIT: I would be concerned about the metal grinding sound you are hearing. Being that you replaced a bunch of stuff and it is still there...

HISSIN50 · Jun 2, 2005

Right on Tim! if one does not have slop at 3 and 9 o'clock, but do at 12 and 6, that suggests the ball joints (as he mentioned, slop in both positions can invalidate the 12 and 6 test).

The metal to metal noise can be the actual joint shank moving (look at the rod that comes out of the joint and goes through the spindle while you do the test - you might see it move). Or put a screwdriver against the ball joint rod and pry it around - it should not move one BIT.

Good luck.

THC420 · Jun 2, 2005

The ball joints are moog''s and they were replace less then 2 weeks ago so i highly doubt it is them, the wheel bearings are also brand new and they are torqued to spec like my manual said to do. tighten 15-25 lbs, back off a half turn then torqued to 13 lbs.

the 6 and 12 test isnt a metal grinding sound or a click.

as i go from 6 to 12 its a metal contacting metal sound like a light tick. same as when i pull from 12 to 6. there is NO play at all in the 3 and 9 test.

HISSIN50 · Jun 2, 2005

if it clicks, you should be able to see/feel/hear movement. I would watch as you pry on the ball joint/spindle and see if you see movement.

Did you recheck the torque spec on the ball-joint nut after you drove the car? the shaft will often seat a little further into the spindle and require a retorquing.

good luck.

THC420 · Jun 2, 2005

No i didnt recheck the torque on the ball joint nut, my mechanic installed them for me.

What is the ball joint nut supposed to be torqued at anyways? and can i even get a torque wrench in there?

So basically i should recheck the torque on my wheel bearings and then recheck the torque on the ball joint nut and see if my problem goes away?

HISSIN50 · Jun 2, 2005

THC420 said:
No i didnt recheck the torque on the ball joint nut, my mechanic installed them for me.

What is the ball joint nut supposed to be torqued at anyways? and can i even get a torque wrench in there?

So basically i should recheck the torque on my wheel bearings and then recheck the torque on the ball joint nut and see if my problem goes away?

I would not sweat wheel bearings unless you want to double check (always a good idea, IMHO). The procedure for torquing them has one seat them and then back the adjustment off, so they should be seated.

I dont have a manual handy, but i use feel for ball joint torque since you really cant decently get a torque wrench on there (I use a box end wrench). I look at the torque spec and guestimate when using the box end wrench. Others might have more precise methods.

good luck.

THC420 · Jun 2, 2005

what size box end wrench is that nut? should i just tighten that nut as tight as i can physically get it? Im going to do it after i get home from the gym.

Am i going to have to remove my calipers and rotors? or can i get at that nut to tighten it with everything still left in place?

THC420 · Jun 5, 2005

ratrapp · Jun 5, 2005

my bros 88 turbo coupe has the same problem.somebody replaced the electric ride control struts with cheap monroe sensatracks.the struts are only a few years old and the strut is moving inside the cartridge at the 12 and 6 position.we replaced the wheel bearings and ball joints and rack bushings also until we found the problem.

THC420 · Jun 5, 2005

ratrapp said:
my bros 88 turbo coupe has the same problem.somebody replaced the electric ride control struts with cheap monroe sensatracks.the struts are only a few years old and the strut is moving inside the cartridge at the 12 and 6 position.we replaced the wheel bearings and ball joints and rack bushings also until we found the problem.

does it still have the problem? or did you get rid of it by replacing the struts?

i just had new struts put on less then 10000 km's ago, so i doubt them to be the culprit.

ratrapp · Jun 5, 2005

yeah it did.we had also replaced the inner and outer tie rod ends on the left side also.have you checked the strut mount bushings also?

THC420 · Jun 5, 2005

no i havent checked the strut mount bushing yet. where is it located and how do i check it?

What else could it be? am I forgetting something?

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