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What puller for tie rod ends?

  • Thread starter Thread starter 67rcks
  • Start date Start date Apr 18, 2012
6

67rcks

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Feb 20, 2008
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Apr 18, 2012
#1
  • Apr 18, 2012
  • #1
Can you please advise what type of pullers shown below is the best suited for tie rod ends removal (for 64.5-69 V8 spindle)?
 

BarnStang

Founding Member
Mar 2, 2001
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Hagerstown, MD
Apr 18, 2012
#2
  • Apr 18, 2012
  • #2
Did any of those pictures you accumlated have product descriptions with them?

I dont use any except the pitman arm puller. It took me awhile to find this article-haven't seen it in a long time, but this works well:

http://www.mustangsplus.com/tech/shockandfall/shockfall2.htm
 

Realmongo

I prefer to be called "Evil Genius"
Founding Member
Oct 10, 2001
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Apr 18, 2012
#3
  • Apr 18, 2012
  • #3
Tie Rod Fork:
 

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67rcks

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Apr 20, 2012
#4
  • Apr 20, 2012
  • #4
What do you mean "product description"?
All of them are ball joints pullers, doesn't say which cars they are good for.
I read that article, the joint does not fall off when being hit by 3 lbs hammer, as strong as it leaves trails on the spindle
If I had to spend $10-15 for fork or puller I choose puller.
So no one really knows which type works best?
 

95Vert383AOD

15 Year Member
Jun 10, 2008
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New Bedford, MA
Apr 20, 2012
#5
  • Apr 20, 2012
  • #5
Well Pullers don't always work either. I've seen Puller tools break trying to remove Pitman arms. Those pullers shown seem pretty flimsy. If i had to choose a poison i guess i would try the bottom left one. Looks like it has a big enough cup to sit on the threaded part. You may need to add tension to it and still (((shock))) it to get it off.

Personally i use a pickle fork when they're around. But usually since i wont be reusing the tie rod anyways i grab my 4 pound mallet and wack on the threaded part.

Chassis repair isn't as fun and dainty as air filters and spark plugs. Its where mechanics get their muscles from. Ever heard of "Beating the breaks off someone" lol Sometimes the right tool is a strong arm.

So when i'm around my car buddies and my arm is an insufficient tool for removing something they usually say "Man Up"

BTW none of those pullers would work on most inner tie rods. The Pickle fork (Tie Rod fork) universally is the tool of choice. Heck the part you wish to remove is even in the name!!!!
 

bartl

Active Member
Feb 4, 2001
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West Rutland, Vermont
Apr 20, 2012
#6
  • Apr 20, 2012
  • #6
If you aren't going to reuse the joint, use a pickle fork.
 

Realmongo

I prefer to be called "Evil Genius"
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Apr 21, 2012
#7
  • Apr 21, 2012
  • #7
And don't forget, the fork comes in tie rod (smaller) size and ball joint (larger) size.
 

Hack

15 Year Member
Mar 23, 2004
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Apr 21, 2012
#8
  • Apr 21, 2012
  • #8
If it doesn't come off with the hammer, use a bigger hammer. I remember the first time I used a pickle fork to separate a ball joint. I foolishly was using a framing hammer to beat on the pickle fork. I was hitting it really hard and I got the tines of the pickle fork forced about 1/2 way into the joint, but the joint didn't separate. I got out a 10 lb maul and hit it one or two times and it popped no problem. It's the shock that really breaks the joint loose. If you have a large enough hammer you won't have to work nearly as hard. The weight of the hammer will do the work.

Make sure you leave the nut loosely attached so nothing flies around when you separate it.

If you use a large enough hammer, you don't need the pickle fork, either. I would not use a puller on a tie rod end. Use a hammer alone or with a pickle fork.
 

69Rcode_Mach1

Active Member
Apr 20, 2004
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Salt Lake City, Utah
Apr 21, 2012
#9
  • Apr 21, 2012
  • #9
Hack said:
If it doesn't come off with the hammer, use a bigger hammer. I remember the first time I used a pickle fork to separate a ball joint. I foolishly was using a framing hammer to beat on the pickle fork. I was hitting it really hard and I got the tines of the pickle fork forced about 1/2 way into the joint, but the joint didn't separate. I got out a 10 lb maul and hit it one or two times and it popped no problem. It's the shock that really breaks the joint loose. If you have a large enough hammer you won't have to work nearly as hard. The weight of the hammer will do the work.

Make sure you leave the nut loosely attached so nothing flies around when you separate it.

If you use a large enough hammer, you don't need the pickle fork, either. I would not use a puller on a tie rod end. Use a hammer alone or with a pickle fork.
Click to expand...

This. Like Hack said the shock is what will break it free, get a BFH and hit it hard. If you aren't hitting it at the right angle it won't come apart either, you got to get it nice and square. So make sure the car is jacked up and you have room to work. If the hammer alone doesn't work then go for the picklefork, the hammer alone should do it. Also like Hack said MAKE SURE to leave the nut on while you do this, prevents anything from getting damaged and you from possibly getting hurt.
 

BarnStang

Founding Member
Mar 2, 2001
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Apr 21, 2012
#10
  • Apr 21, 2012
  • #10
I think you answered your own question. If the product descriptions say all the pullers are for ball joints, then none will work for well for tie rods.
I've always used the shock method, don't own a pickle fork. They do too much damage and get stuck. You need a LARGE hammer/maul. Works 95% of the time. The other 5% you're going to destroy the tie rod-put the nut on and drive it out.
 

65wildstang

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Mar 25, 2011
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Apr 21, 2012
#11
  • Apr 21, 2012
  • #11
BFH here also. Never had any luck with anything else.
 

mustangmike6996

5 Year Member
Nov 10, 2005
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clinton twp, MI
Apr 21, 2012
#12
  • Apr 21, 2012
  • #12
the middle style pullers are the easiest as far as not moving or coming off while you are tightening the bolt. i like pickle forks but you have better luck just hitting the knuckle where the tie rod is located once you remove the castle nut. the pickle fork will do about the same (or more) amount of damage as the hammer on the knuckle. As a Master Certified tech. Ive worked on many high end cars with aluminum knuckles and never did any real damage that way. or you could go to autozone and "rent" the tool. they loan you the tool and charge your credit card, you bring the tool back, they refund the money.
 

horse sence

15 Year Member
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Wile Coyote's stunt double
Apr 22, 2012
#13
  • Apr 22, 2012
  • #13
i never use a puller,hit on the end of the spindle eye that the tie rod passes
through ,or the ball joint passes through, it should fall out fairly easy. pounding
on the threads usualy wont do it ,atleast not easily,use a smooth faced hammer
so it doesnt maul the spindle eye ,never uese a pickle fork if you plan to reuse the
tie rod or ball joint. usualy just a couple sharp raps on the eyelets gets the job done
 
6

67rcks

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Feb 20, 2008
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Apr 27, 2012
#14
  • Apr 27, 2012
  • #14
I got finally the middle top one and after I removed the tie rod end with this puller, I can hardly imagine the hammer would work. it really depends how tight the rod end sits in the spindle. The fork would be IMO very destructive too. I would advise - discontinue hammering if 2-3 strong hits do not work and use the puller. The bottom left one is IMO not good too (the jaws slipps off the spindle)
 

horse sence

15 Year Member
Nov 29, 1999
12,197
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Wile Coyote's stunt double
Apr 27, 2012
#15
  • Apr 27, 2012
  • #15
its the shock from the hammer blow on the eyelet it vibrates the tie rods out
it actualy works beter than a puller especialy on a realy stuck one. the problem
is finding the room to swing the hammer to get a solid blow
 

HDTony

Member
Oct 15, 2010
134
2
19
Plainfield IL
Apr 28, 2012
#16
  • Apr 28, 2012
  • #16
bartl said:
If you aren't going to reuse the joint, use a pickle fork.
Click to expand...
thats all I've ever used
 
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