What to do for bottom end?

[66forfun]

Im looking for opinions on bottom end.

I have the following:
Edelbrock Vr jr heads
Roller rockers
Torker 289 single plane manifold
summit flat tappit cam 3400-6800rpm
hardened pushrods
roller timing set
670 Avenger carb

How beefy do I need the bottom end to be?
Could I get away with a rebuild & girdle on the 289 (331 rotating assy)?
Should I just give D.S.S. or fms 347 forged short block a chance?
Hooker Super comps or reg comp headers?

My little 289/c4 needs to get out of the high teens, please help. No slicks or track time, just a fun street car is what i'm after.

 

[LMan]

Ford bottom ends are pretty strong already. Definitely change the rod bolts to ARP or other hi-perf type. Girdle cant hurt, but the true worth of one is a oft-debated topic, since apparently Ford caps dont wander too much as it is.

Your mods dont sound like you will be testing the limits of the stock block, so IIWY I would get the better rod bolts and *perhaps* the girdle. Get good cap bolts/studs as well.

 

[rbohm]

since you wont be testing the limits of the block, you really dont need a stud girdle, however i would put one on for the sake of longevity, and ultimate reliability. for rod bolts step up to arp replacement bolts at a minimum, better would be 11/32" rod bolts, also from arp. get them from an amc V8 engine. replace the stock main cap bolts with main studs, again from arp. and dont forget to balance the rotating assembly, but dont spend the money on blueprinting as you dont need it. you also dont need a high volume oil pump either, but definately pop for a good aftermarket oil pump driveshaft.

 

[66forfun]

Thanks,
Just to be clear i was guessing ~350-400 hp since the vr heads>performer heads:
I should be ok w/289 block - cool
I hear ya on the ARP and pump shaft. thanks.
I am needing new pistons anyway for valve clearance so I will grab a rotating assy while im at it - recommendations please on rods & slugs
Still not sure on if I need the girdle, can I use std oil pan with it or should I figure in an extra $400 for pan?

 

[rbohm]

most girdles designed for street use clear the stock oil pan with no problem. i do however recommend that you set up and buy a low profile aftermarket pan with extra oil capacity. that way you will have enough oil in the pan when you turn up the rpm's, so you dont have to worry about intermitant oil starvation. an 8qt street pan from summit racing runs $180, and imo is a worthwhile investment.

 

[iskwezm]

Thanks,
Just to be clear i was guessing ~350-400 hp since the vr heads>performer heads:
I should be ok w/289 block - cool
I hear ya on the ARP and pump shaft. thanks.
I am needing new pistons anyway for valve clearance so I will grab a rotating assy while im at it - recommendations please on rods & slugs
Still not sure on if I need the girdle, can I use std oil pan with it or should I figure in an extra $400 for pan?

my buddies dad just finished a 11:1 289,stock rods(bushed and 3/8" bolts) and stock crank, just worked a little. With AFR 205's it put out 414 HP.

 

[Edbert]

289s are reknowned for their ability and willingness to rev. Stroking it to a 331 will have lost some of that already so don't do the 347 (my opinion). Use 3/8-ARP rod bolts, have the rods closely weighed, and the reciprocatinfg assembly balanced closely and you should be good to go.

With that cam I suspect you'll be looking for more "bottom end" from the power curve too

 

[66forfun]

The cam was included in the package of used parts I happened upon. I like lumpy, have the manual baer 13" brakes so i figured what the heck. So its looking like new slugs, rework the rods for larger bolts, bigger pan & girdle and I will be good to 6500-7000 rpm and ready to break some parts behind it all.