I tested most all that. I know they have nothing to with each other. But on this car, i think its a timing thing. It appears it was flooded. Had to be. It seems like a chain reaction thing. I assume more issues will rise.
Look at this EEC/PCM relay. They are 1 in the same right? Lol this thing is tuuhrashed! Gotta be it.
Also not the factory PCM relay since it has 5 prong. Factory was 4. Or this is not the PCM relay. Looks like it is and in right area.
Look at this EEC/PCM relay. They are 1 in the same right? Lol this thing is tuuhrashed! Gotta be it.
Also not the factory PCM relay since it has 5 prong. Factory was 4. Or this is not the PCM relay. Looks like it is and in right area.
I mean if its running good/charging and no issues its probably not a issue. Just another ground. But it def. Shouldnt hurt to put it in.
Might of been. Bought it from corpus christi area. Had grass and
But at sametime, i dont see corrosion on a much other stuff. All the wiring looks to be in fair condition for being 30yrs old. Computer looks good. Very light bit of browning on top of plastic holder frame from heat.
But at sametime, i dont see corrosion on a much other stuff. All the wiring looks to be in fair condition for being 30yrs old. Computer looks good. Very light bit of browning on top of plastic holder frame from heat.
That is the eec relay then. And that does not look like it was working at all. Check the wiring and make sure they didn't rig it up to bypass the relay.
Incorrect. What happens most often when the ground is not connected to the battery is pin 46, signal return burns out and the vehicle is lucky if it runs. Also, this ground isn't for a light bulb or a relay, it's for electronics that are monitoring frequencies and very small voltage changes, which require a solid, clean ground. I have had to do this for customers that come in for a tune and after installing the ground back to the battery some of their drivability concerns go away.
Where exactly am I running this ground wire from? One drivability problem I have is a slight hesitation while driving around town. Feels like a slight surge.
Well, its got spark now. And fuel. But not starting. When i was putting old dist. Back in, i forgot to check the location on the pointer thing on the rotor. Would that throw off timing? Or potentially make it "180" out? Lol.
FP still seems weak, when i depress shrader valve i just get minor drip, no squirt. But ill check that with a gage.
FP still seems weak, when i depress shrader valve i just get minor drip, no squirt. But ill check that with a gage.
Ya, i learned the rotor matters. lol. Got it up and running. Seems to have a miss, i must of base timed it to far advanced and quite close to running out of room CCW. But its up and running. Just a timing issue now. Preciate all the input.
edit: the miss was from a old fouled plug i put it instead of the good one by accident. I had grabbed that other plug to check socket size. Doh!
So running good now. Idles high now though about 1100 rpm. Hot start issue still persists. But thats just the CCA 1/0 wire not cutting it for the negative battery cable.
edit: the miss was from a old fouled plug i put it instead of the good one by accident. I had grabbed that other plug to check socket size. Doh!
So running good now. Idles high now though about 1100 rpm. Hot start issue still persists. But thats just the CCA 1/0 wire not cutting it for the negative battery cable.
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Where the battery used to sit, rearward of there, on the apron, there is a black wire screwed to the sheetmetal. It used to be connected to the battery through a pigtail. Cut this off and solder, don't crimp, a 10g wire to it and run it back to the battery. Then, disconnect battery for about 10 min and allow adaptives to reset. Then everything should work as designed.