What's the next step for power?

always the.....nos....may be able to pick up a used kit for that....

maybe some better axles to handle the power increase? that would come in around $300. or an aluminum driveshaft to shed some rotational weight in the driveline...just a few ideas.

other than that, it wouldn't hurt to maybe upgrade your fuel system or radiator/cooling system before your upgrades...if nothing else, $300 will spend itself quickly on little parts and details during an HCI swap.

IF THE STOCK CLUTCH IS IN THERE U MIGHT WANT TO THINK ABOUT THAT WITH THE POWER THE HEADS AND CAM ARE GOING TO BRING

SVTtripleblack said:

I don't want to risk using NOS on an engine with 73k that isn't built for it. I plan on keeping my car N/A, maybe a supercharger way down the road, but I doubt it. It would be fun to try thought. Thanks for the input.

Click to expand...

Yeah..I know the feeling.....I'm at 67K and about out of NA motor trans and gear mods.....have not touch suspension yet......looking at possible power adder..I actually changed my response after seeing the 300.00 limit...I had put Turbo or S/C.......

But...Paul...GCOM...and Bill have played with the juice and the engine held up for quite a while.........food for thought but I am with you on the choice.....

I'd look towards...

1.) Upgrading the clutch, flywheel etc. if not done so already

or

2.) Some larger injectors like 24's or 30's and the appropriate MAF and tuning materials in advance of the imcreased airflow and power.

SVTtripleblack said:

I am going to do a head and cam install and have my intake ported in the near future, but is there any other performance upgrade I can do for under $300 that would benefit what I already have done? Thanks for any suggestions

Click to expand...

I can understand about wanting to do something ... NOW

On The Other Hand

Put that 300 bux aside for when you get some nice Aluminum Heads

Do not plan on reusing your Cobra rockers

Instead ............

Use that 300 bux for some stud mount rockers and then buy heads
that are compatible for such rockers.

I don't know how it is these days ... but with AFR heads in the past

Going with stud heads would also get you a nice bump in compression
as they had smaller chambers

Hey ... 300 bux will get you a Custom Cam

I looked at your sig ... and to my way of thinking

At this time ... I see setting aside some money for things that will REALLY
make a difference later on as the best thing for you in the long run.

I know ... I know ... That ain't what you wanna hear

Grady

As for your blower possibilities

IMHO ... I feel you are giving too much concern about compression when talking
about a blower application on an OEM block.

Yes ... All the time ... Over and over ... You see them blow HG's

Honestly ... A lot of the time ... That happens to a noobie blower user

A blown combo can toss a set of HG's for many reasons that are unknown
to a new user of such a combo

but

They learn quickly you could say
and
IMHO ...Compression on an OEM block is not the cause of their grief

About your maf concerns

I would have to say the C&L could be doing one of three things for you

1) Nothing
2) Helping ... but if so ... By a small amount
3) Might actually be costing you a bit of power
or
Drivability issues
or
Even both

The same could be said about other meters with an application where
not much of an increase in airflow is present.

The OEM meter has PLENTY of headroom for a bolt on GT or Cobra

Of the three possibilities I mentioned ... I listed them in the order of what
I believe might happen.

Since we all focus on 94-95 Stangs here

I can say without reservation :Word:

The Cheat Method employed by the aftermarket meter manufacturers
has fallen out of my favor on a more and more steady basis over the
years as I have learned more about our pcm's.

That whole process is just not the kind of thing that compliments the
workings of our pcm's ... and ... if the truth be told ... it is really
detrimental to what one is trying to do because it hoses up the
load factors in the 94-95 pcm which are used in MANY tables to
arrive at fuel and spark values.

Now ... That is not to say ... it DON'T or WON'T work

With 24's the error is not as great as with 30's or larger
but
None the less ... The whole process can lead to issues

I'd tell you to use that C&L and see how things go
cause
If you feel there is some kind of prob
you can put back the oem meter

The thing that can REALLY throw an untuned pcm outta whack is .........
Larger inj's with a matching caled meter
and
The thing that can be so frustrating about that is

It is such a crap shoot

I mean ... you can have two very similar combos and one can very
well be effected by such mods and the other might not notice
any difference at all

Grady

Most blown head gaskets are due to not being tuned or tuned right. The boost route is very safe when tuned right. I had a C&L Meter on a previous Mustang and went with PRO-M later on and was much more happy with it.

i had a c&l too and am much happier with the Pro-M i got now. boost horror stories are mostly from rookie mistakes or contributing problems. my head gasket problems were from over heating and over revving it. only blown it twice in 4 years now and both times were within the first year and half. haven't blown it since. as long as you get the supporting hardware and tune your golden. same as nitrous i would assume.

you haven't said what heads and cam you were getting, and i agree with grady, get yourself some better rockers.

SVTtripleblack said:

Thanks again. I'm not 100% sure which heads to go with. I'm leaning towards AFR 165's or trickflow TW Street heads. I hear both are good and I've seen a lot of you guys using them and making around the kind of power I want to put down, which is at least 300rwhp.

Click to expand...

Yes ... Good power can be made with both of them

As for a cam, I don't want anything too outrageous because the car is only going to see the track a couple times a year and I want it to be fairly reliable if it has to sit in traffic or take some longer trips for shows and weekend cruising.

Click to expand...

Reliable
A Steeda #19 is no more or less reliable than my FTI custom
or
A TFS stage 1
or
Crower etc

After all ... You are talking Street Car not Race Car
so
All street car cams are going to he reliable

Sit in traffic
I guess you would be talking about lope
so
ANY cam is gonna lope

Trips
I get over 19mpg on the highway at cruise speeds of 75-80mph
so
You should be able to do as good or better with most cams

Weekend cruising
Around town you will obviously get less mpg than on the highway
but
I do pretty good around town if I keep my foot out of it

This means no stalling or overheating.

Click to expand...

The stalling does not have to be a consideration of cam choice
It would not be a consideration what so ever with a sharp tune

Obviously ... the overheating would not be caused by cam selection as well

I will tell you to expect more heat as you are asking it to work harder to
make more power :Word:

A better radiator and water pump made all those kinds of things
go away for me

It is not my daily driver and I only put less than 5k on a year so I'm not worried about anything silly like gas millage or waking the neighbors. Should I go with a Steeda #19 cam, crowler, TFS, Crane, etc. or just get a custom cam? I want the car to be driveable so I can at least drive it to a dyno to get it tuned and I know these 94-95 stangs are picky about cams. Any suggestions?

Click to expand...

I would talk to some custom guys about the possibilities

That is ... The power possibilities ... Things such as .........
Maximum rpm potential
Power band expectations
and so forth

Those guys can tell you almost to the T what to expect

For the drivability considerations

I'd definitely NOT think about them in the same thought process when
thinking cams

H E Y ... Clear your mind for just a few seconds of
ALL the 94-95 pcm/cam stuff
You have seen and heard spread around on the internet in the past

Have you ever listened to the idle of some of the combos with a sharp tune
that report of NO drivibility issues what so ever ???

A lot of them have more than a ... subtle lope ... to em

Said that stuff to try and show ...

You tune for drivability ... NOT ... Make cam choice

I offer my humble sig combo for consideration and example

Ever hear peeps say ... "A low lsa will drive your pcm nuts"

Well ... Would you consider ... 109 ... a low lsa
I mean ... My pcm ain't nuts

Just think over some of these thoughts

I assure you :Word: ... It ain't hear- say ... cause ... I done it

I am not here to brag
I am here to tell you there is another way

Grady

drakesdad said:

Yeah..I know the feeling.....I'm at 67K and about out of NA motor trans and gear mods.....have not touch suspension yet......looking at possible power adder..I actually changed my response after seeing the 300.00 limit...I had put Turbo or S/C.......

But...Paul...GCOM...and Bill have played with the juice and the engine held up for quite a while.........food for thought but I am with you on the choice.....

Click to expand...

6.5 years of a LOT of nitrous. I "almost" made it to 200,000 miles before the rings let go. Nothing wrong with the heads or pistons at all.



The 125 shot is wonderful! Oh and for the naysayers... this was on a DRY shot. Look at those two purty bottles back there.