There is no caster adjustment with the factory Camber plates. Caster is fixed as the top of the strut mounts by three bolts. One is fixed, and the other two rotate around the fixed bolt to adjust camber.
However, with aftermarket camber/caster plates, you can now adjust camber.
True story, caster was never adjustable from the factory. That is why I said to check and get the camber correct, Make a mark then pull the plates and slot the 3 holes. rearward on the rh side to increase the caster and slot the drivers side forward to decrease the caster. that gives about 1 degree before the strut starts to hit the tower. that will help with the pulls right. Did I mention That in a previous... did alignments for two ford dealers 20 years blah blah blah & Still learning With cars the day you stop learning is the day you die You need all your ASE's and then you go for a FORD master... I got mine in 98 Continuing education is a big thing, I go to an AC class here and there and leave the new Fords to my replacements who I trained anyway
The plates look like hell. You would not see any good technician use them unless requested hard or flat broke financially. You will see them on tons of Mustangs because the owners think they are great and they think or have been told they need them. You have to hog out the holes to use them and that is why making one slot in the direction you need is a better option. The plate covers your slots and the car looks stock. You have to slot the pivot too and you do not need to re install a rivet
The plates look like hell. You would not see any good technician use them unless requested hard or flat broke financially. You will see them on tons of Mustangs because the owners think they are great and they think or have been told they need them. You have to hog out the holes to use them and that is why making one slot in the direction you need is a better option. The plate covers your slots and the car looks stock. You have to slot the pivot too and you do not need to re install a rivet
My caster / camber plates didn't need any hole hogging to work. They are UPR brand. They are great and stop the bushing flex at the top of the strut during cornering and maneuvers.
I'm a legit L1 technician. Master certified and over 20yrs experience. ( even though I'm still a dummy and learning all the time ).
True, they aren't needed to get the car into factory spec. unless the chassis is way off. When you start upgrading suspension parts and brakes you need a more predictable top point for the strut. Driving like a normal car you'd probably never know the short comings of factory plates. Start driving hard and you'll feel the difference.
The plates look like hell. You would not see any good technician use them unless requested hard or flat broke financially. You will see them on tons of Mustangs because the owners think they are great and they think or have been told they need them. You have to hog out the holes to use them and that is why making one slot in the direction you need is a better option. The plate covers your slots and the car looks stock. You have to slot the pivot too and you do not need to re install a rivet
I didn't touch anything on my strut tower to make my maximum motorsports plates work. They bolted right up and were necessary to run coil-overs. Tons of adjustability, which i do use as I like more caster than what is available with the factory plates.
No formal automotive education here. I’m self taught
Why would you want to stop the bushing flex sic fox? You like riding in a steel wheeled spreader? So now you know that L1 and 50 cents will but a cup of coffee. I am a factory man and like stock. If you are going racing that is another story
My caster / camber plates didn't need any hole hogging to work. They are UPR brand. They are great and stop the bushing flex at the top of the strut during cornering and maneuvers.
I'm a legit L1 technician. Master certified and over 20yrs experience. ( even though I'm still a dummy and learning all the time ).
True, they aren't needed to get the car into factory spec. unless the chassis is way off. When you start upgrading suspension parts and brakes you need a more predictable top point for the strut. Driving like a normal car you'd probably never know the short comings of factory plates. Start driving hard and you'll feel the difference.
Why would you want to stop the bushing flex sic fox? You like riding in a steel wheeled spreader? So now you know that L1 and 50 cents will but a cup of coffee. I am a factory man and like stock. If you are going racing that is another story
When you go racing the game changes. Proud of you for the L1 Now we can do the technician A or B who is right Neither!
Technician A says....Technician B says....Neither...or Both. Lol
Yeah man. It's all according to what you want. Nothings wrong with stock. Scarlet Rose is staying stock. They do ride very well. I never noticed a difference in ride quality with caster / camber plates though.