Wheel hop when I reverse and cut the wheel

BlackArtemis

Dated 4 Amandas. Nothing special. Got the job done

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Sep 23, 2002

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49

West Chester, PA

Jan 16, 2010

#1

• Jan 16, 2010

• #1

I thought this was a ball joint issue, but when I took it to a garage they said it was the rear axle damper (What we would call a quad shock right?)

Does this sound plausible?

What would you recommend to replace these?

thanks

 

bhuff30

Founding Member

Dec 11, 2001

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Olathe KS

Jan 16, 2010

#2

• Jan 16, 2010

• #2

Wheel hop in reverse? Either you are doing terrible things to your car, or you have your terminolodgy confused. How about a more detailed description of the exact problem?

 

BlackArtemis

Dated 4 Amandas. Nothing special. Got the job done

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Sep 23, 2002

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49

West Chester, PA

Jan 16, 2010

#3

• Jan 16, 2010

• #3

bhuff30 said:

Wheel hop in reverse? Either you are doing terrible things to your car, or you have your terminolodgy confused. How about a more detailed description of the exact problem?

Click to expand...

Haha, ok

When I reverse out of my parking spot (on the slightest of incline) and I cut the back end to the right I get a wheel hop feeling that jostles the car a little bit. It really feels like it is coming from the fron driver side.

They said one of my rear axle dampers was blown and caused this.

They also quoted me $80/per which seems damn expensive since I can get KYB's for $45 and blistein for $115. I have to ask them which brand.

 

bhuff30

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Dec 11, 2001

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Olathe KS

Jan 16, 2010

#4

• Jan 16, 2010

• #4

I don't really see how a quad shock would cause a hop when you are backing up and turning. This may be an unrelated problem. Wheel hop is a violent shacking of the whole rear axle when you are accelerating very hard and spinning the tires. That shock attempts to control this violent hopping of the axle by constaining it a little more... so it shouldn't be related to your hop problem in reverse.

 

BlackArtemis

Dated 4 Amandas. Nothing special. Got the job done

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Sep 23, 2002

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West Chester, PA

Jan 16, 2010

#5

• Jan 16, 2010

• #5

Well, originally I had them check my ball joints etc and they found nothing.

Just picked her up and she drives fine, always have. But it's the cutting in reverse that does this. They claim my quad shocks have no compression. So i see two solutions

take it to another shop who I trust, (they are further away, which is why I didn't go there first)

Or spend the $200 on some Bilstein quad shocks and have my friend help w/ install and then get a allignment.

They were trying to sell me KYB's for Bilstein prices...

 

SaleenGT2001

Well-Known Member

Jul 18, 2005

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Four Oaks NC

Jan 16, 2010

#6

• Jan 16, 2010

• #6

pull the quads off and trash them. spend the money on a nice set of LCA's

 

trinity_gt

10 Year Member

Jan 31, 2003

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Jan 16, 2010

#7

• Jan 16, 2010

• #7

The fore/aft axle dampers in the back don't come into play here. They are there to help dampen the fore/aft movement of the axle due to the extremely soft and pliable lower-control arm front bushings, movement which can occur due to sudden acceleration or even hitting road bumps. The bushings have to be pliant to allow the 4-link its full range of motion without binding. Such softness though leads to lots of movement and the need to mechanically damp it. In short, I don't think the "quad shocks" are your problem.

I believe you might be seeing a limited-slip differential chatter, caused by the wheels having to turn at different rates when the car turns a corner and the limited slip not allowing this to happen smoothly. When the "traction lok" begins to chatter, it's asking for attention. You might be able to get away with a fluid change along with a fresh bottle of friction modifier. It may also point to the TLok clutch packs on their way out or a softening of the pre-load spring.

 

BlackArtemis

Dated 4 Amandas. Nothing special. Got the job done

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Sep 23, 2002

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West Chester, PA

Jan 16, 2010

#8

• Jan 16, 2010

• #8

Trinity, thanks a lot. After doing a search based on what you told me I found this:
http://www.stangnet.com/images/stories/docs/sn95_TSBs/06-04-04.pdf

Now if I find this to be the problem, which direction should I go with it? Replace OEm, build it up etc?

I was hoping to do gears soon.

 

K

Kilgore Trout

Fried or Broiled ?

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Mar 30, 2005

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Jan 16, 2010

#9

• Jan 16, 2010

• #9

BlackArtemis said:

I was hoping to do gears soon.

Click to expand...

Well there ya go now ya got a reason to do them! When you have it rebuilt be sure and use the carbon fiber frictions.

 

trinity_gt

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Jan 16, 2010

#10

• Jan 16, 2010

• #10

Kilgore Trout said:

Well there ya go now ya got a reason to do them! When you have it rebuilt be sure and use the carbon fiber frictions.

Click to expand...

Agreed.

If you're doing gears the diff is coming out anyway. It'll be sitting on a bench while the ring is changed and the center-pin will have already been removed. Rebuilding the TLok is a no-brainer IMHO.

If you are making or plan on making lots of power you might consider upgrading to a 31-spline 3rd member such as:

Ford Racing 8.8 in 31 Spline Traction - LOK Limited Slip Differential w/ Carbon Discs at AmericanMuscle.com - Free Shipping!

and, of course, getting new axles to match it.

Or you could just get a rebuild kit and live with the OE 28-spline unit:

Ford Racing 8.8" Traction-LOK Rebuild Kit w/ Carbon Discs at AmericanMuscle.com - Free Shipping!

 

BlackArtemis

Dated 4 Amandas. Nothing special. Got the job done

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Sep 23, 2002

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West Chester, PA

Jan 16, 2010

#11

• Jan 16, 2010

• #11

I was thinking of Frpp gears 3.73 or 4.10) and the carbon rebuild is the way to go.

An FRPP LSD and 31 spline axles are a bit too much for my wallet at the moment

 

BlackArtemis

Dated 4 Amandas. Nothing special. Got the job done

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Sep 23, 2002

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49

West Chester, PA

Jan 16, 2010

#12

• Jan 16, 2010

• #12

Honestly, my goals have always been just a low to mid 12 second car. Nothing extreme.

At the most I would ever do is a mongoose kit.

However, always being a student or living in Thailand and teaching has always meant no $ for the stang.

Do you think a rebuild kit would hold up well if I put 4.10's and a nice cam in? Or would you just do what you could for the extra $ to go all out on the rear?

 

Tanus

New Member

Dec 11, 2009

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A to the Z

Jan 16, 2010

#13

• Jan 16, 2010

• #13

every car Ive drove wheel hops in reverse under hard acceleration, which Im a big fan of btw, haha

 

BlackArtemis

Dated 4 Amandas. Nothing special. Got the job done

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Sep 23, 2002

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West Chester, PA

Jan 16, 2010

#14

• Jan 16, 2010

• #14

I'm talking 5mph and under.

 

J

jcori1

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Jul 14, 2009

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Hamden CT

Jan 16, 2010

#15

• Jan 16, 2010

• #15

I can relate to this...when i reverse out of my parking spot and its on a slight incline i get a strange hop in the front...its not violent or worrisome at all...its almost the wheel locks in...its been occurying for the last couple of months...i also know my strut is leaking...but hte sound does sound like it comes from the front drivers side

 

BlackArtemis

Dated 4 Amandas. Nothing special. Got the job done

Founding Member

Sep 23, 2002

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3

49

West Chester, PA

Jan 16, 2010

#16

• Jan 16, 2010

• #16

100% my problem. Gonna drive out to CJponyparts within the next few days and drop it off and have them look at it.

read this: http://www.stangnet.com/images/stori...s/06-04-04.pdf