Why is My Car Slow??

91LX_5L said:

ALSO!!! With the ACT sensor do you want it facing so the sensor is open with the inside of the air tube (so the air blows thru it) or do you want it twisted so the edge of the plastic is where the air hits (so it doesnt blow directly on the sensor)?

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I always turned mine so the sensor was being hit directly with air, it kinda defeats the purpose of an air sensor if the air isn't directly hitting it I think.

I thought that the ACT was also called the IAT (intake air temperature)? That's what I've always called it.

Also might wanna check your ECT (engine coolant temperature), as this has been known to affect performance. Check the supplied voltage, and do an ohms test.

CManT1914 said:

I always turned mine so the sensor was being hit directly with air, it kinda defeats the purpose of an air sensor if the air isn't directly hitting it I think.

I thought that the ACT was also called the IAT (intake air temperature)? That's what I've always called it.

Also might wanna check your ECT (engine coolant temperature), as this has been known to affect performance. Check the supplied voltage, and do an ohms test.

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Thats what i thought. Thanks.

Where is the ECT, what should the voltage be? What wire do I Pierece to test? Sorry I know I need a haynes manual.

So you did set the timing with the Spout disconnected? and then you connected it again after? Well then it's ok, I just wasn't sure you did that is all. I don't think you need to clean the SPOUT connector because you would notice a major draw in power. The ACT is also called an IAT but I call it the ACT because thats what Ford calls it. I agree with you guys, Im not sure what you are talkin about because i think my ACT/IAT sensor is designed a little different but it sounds like it should be put directly in the flow of the air

well I do have a pretty big power loss, should have more power then it does thats for sure. Yes I did it with the spout disconnected.

If I unplug the spout will it reset my timing???

91LX_5L said:

well I do have a pretty big power loss, should have more power then it does thats for sure. Yes I did it with the spout disconnected.

If I unplug the spout will it reset my timing???

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Ouch, sorry i'm not really sure if it can reset the timing if you remove it i would say no but don't take my word for it . I pulled out my haynes manual and this is the spout test.

1. Turn ignition switch off
2.Disconnect the pin-in-line connector (SPOUT connector)
3. Start the engine and measure voltage, at idle, from the SPOUT connector to the distributor base. The reading should equal battery voltage.
4.If result is ok then the problem lies with the eec system
5. If result unsatisfactory, separate the wiring harness connector from ignition module. Check for damage, corrosion or dirt.
6. Measure the resistance between between terminal no 5 and pin-in-line connector. Done only at the ignition module connector only. reading should be less than 5 ohms.
7. If reading okay, reconnect TFI module.
8. If not check for damage, corrosion, or dirt

Of course this is for fox bodies so there may be some descrepencies but should be close. We have the same engine

alright whats it mean measure from the spout to the dist base? where do i hook up my volt meter?

and where is that ECT? Im gonna try to clean all this crap today and see if it helps some.

thanks for your time & help!

Hey no problem, this is fun trying to help someone with thier problems. I think It's saying to measure the voltage from one pin in the SPOUT to just the Distributor housing or base (im guessing jusrt the bottom part.). The ECT on my car is on the engine block near the thermostat housing which is to the front of the engine on top. it's screwed in and has one wire coming from the top.

5.0nmalecek said:

Hey no problem, this is fun trying to help someone with thier problems. I think It's saying to measure the voltage from one pin in the SPOUT to just the Distributor housing or base (im guessing jusrt the bottom part.). The ECT on my car is on the engine block near the thermostat housing which is to the front of the engine on top. it's screwed in and has one wire coming from the top.

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thanks Im about to make a post labled "NAME THESE SENSORS......" view that I think I might of cleaned the ECT.

91LX_5L said:

Thats what i thought. Thanks.

Where is the ECT, what should the voltage be? What wire do I Pierece to test? Sorry I know I need a haynes manual.

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It is the sensor threaded into the front of the intake plenum (lower I think), all you need is a multimeter. Voltage should be like 5volts I THINK!! can't remember for sure though, I'll let you know tomorrow (hayne's manual's at work). You don't need to pierce a wire for the voltage test, just touch the hot lead to the hot wire on the connector. To measure ohms (also can't remember the specs it should be at, I'll let you know tomorrow) just set the multimeter to ohms test (20k and under) and touch both leads to both prongs on the sensor. It should read right around the specs. The specs are different hot than when they are cold, you should test them at both. I'll have more info tomorrow man.

CManT1914 said:

It is the sensor threaded into the front of the intake plenum (lower I think), all you need is a multimeter. Voltage should be like 5volts I THINK!! can't remember for sure though, I'll let you know tomorrow (hayne's manual's at work). You don't need to pierce a wire for the voltage test, just touch the hot lead to the hot wire on the connector. To measure ohms (also can't remember the specs it should be at, I'll let you know tomorrow) just set the multimeter to ohms test (20k and under) and touch both leads to both prongs on the sensor. It should read right around the specs. The specs are different hot than when they are cold, you should test them at both. I'll have more info tomorrow man.

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ok cool. any chance u could get a pic to describe the area? still dunno where it is.

thanks

91LX_5L said:

ok cool. any chance u could get a pic to describe the area? still dunno where it is.

thanks

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Ohms test: When engine is cold (50-65* F) resistance value should be between 58,750 and 40,500 ohms. With the engine warm it should be lower, between 3,600 and 1,840 ohms.

Voltage test: The voltage between the PCM and the sensor should be around 5.0 volts.

I can get a pic for you tonight when I get home. I have my Hayne's manual here at work, but now my digicam is at home, lol.

EDIT: Oh, and if you see the upper radiator hose, the ECT sensor is right behind it, in front of the fuel rail, next to the distributor, and sticking up out of lower plenum.

Actually, I just learned how to email a picture from my phone, here's the pic:

haha sweet man I was gonna ask you I thought it was that guy


Anyways I guess ill just guess till I get the right wire. Ill test that today.

Any other sensors I can test/check/clean? Can you test the 02s what should the voltage be on those, with igntion on or off? what about the voltage on the maf? what about the act/iac? i think im gonna get to the bottom of my problems thanks to you guys (i hope its just sensors)

Thanks,
Matt

IAT test: At 68*, resistance should be high, at around 27,300 ohms. At operating temperature, i.e. 212*, resistance should be much lower, around 2,000 ohms. It should have a supplied voltage of 5 volts. I believe there is only 2 prongs on this sensor, can't remember for sure though.

MAF test: As you're looking at the connector, (the big round one that plugs into the big plastic MAF housing that came stock) you'll see 4 prongs and 4 empty slots. The top left is the ground, the top right is the PCM power ground, the bottom left is the MAF signal voltage, and the bottom right is the B+ voltage lead. Disconnect the connector, and use the B+ and GND leads to check for power to the MAF. Then reconnect it and backprobe the MAF signal and GND leads to check for voltage. At idle, it should be around 0.2 to 1.5 volts. As the engine rpm raises, it should increase to about 2.0 volts at 60mph (whatever rpm that is for you). To check resistance, disconnect the connector, and use the MAF signal and GND leads. If the wire element inside the sensor is damaged (bad MAF) it will read infinite resistance. Not real sure what resistance should be normally.

TPS test: Turn ignition on, (engine not running) and use the signal lead (middle prong) and the GND lead (the top prong, without the notch next to it on the outside of the connector). At idle it should read 0.50 to 1.0 volts. Have a buddy mash the gas WOT and it should rise to 4.0 to 5.0 volts at WOT. Next, check the supplied voltage from the PCM using the GND lead and the Ref lead (the one with the notch next to it on the outside of the connector). It should be around 5.0 volts.

O2 test: The voltage output from the O2's vary from 0.1 volts (lean) and 0.9 volts (rich). Seeing as the PCM doesn't read the O2's until they are at least 600* F, you'll need to get the engine up to operating temperature first. To check voltage OUTput (the reading the O2's are sending to the PCM) backprobe (you can attach paperclips or the like to the multimeter prongs) the SIG (bottom left) and the GND (top left). To check supplied voltage, use the HTR GND (heater ground, the bottom right if the two notches that are close together are at the top) and the B+ lead (the top right).

That's all I can think of for now. Good luck, lemme know if you need more info.

thats a lot that will be a sunday night project, seems as if my car is allready running better

rude_life said:

Well guys i guess here is an update from when i first posted this thread...today i replaced my fuel pump with a new BBK 155 LPH..runs much stronger and more efficient...While i was at it i finally checked my timing for the first time since ive had the car...it was at like 4* advance..bumped it up to 10*, 100% difference. She used to bog out and be sluggish off the start all over the place..not anymore. Feels like 500 LBS lighter. Im happy.

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Thats great news

Did you mean to say 255 when talking about your pump replacement

You might wanna try upping your spark to 12* and test drive listening for the ping thing and then repeat at 14* and so on until you hear ping...... then back off a couple of degrees.

btw the higher you go with the spark value the better grade of gas you will need to use

Later
Grady