Wideband O2 question

Dope 97GT · May 22, 2006

I just bought the LC-1 wideband setup from dynotune and I was just wondering the best place to put the bung on the h pipe?

I saw this in a previous thread but i could not find it in my searches.

jstreet0204 · May 22, 2006

Drivers side before the cats if you have them.

propellerhead · May 22, 2006

Innovate has a big thread on it in their forums. If you have an off-road midpipe, use one of the rear 02 sensor bungs. If you have cats, get a new bung put in. With respect to the factory O2 sensor, the new one should be 10 and 2 if I remember right. If one sensor is at 10 o'clock position, put the other one at the 2 o'clock position. I think.

Dope 97GT · May 22, 2006

Do I have to calibrate the sensor in the open air before I put it in because I really dont understand the direction and cant find an answer on the forums.

Also how could I put it in the rear O2 sensor bung I have a o/r h but i dont have a tuner and run MILs so im not sure if its possible.

jstreet0204 · May 22, 2006

Dope 97GT said:
Do I have to calibrate the sensor in the open air before I put it in because I really dont understand the direction and cant find an answer on the forums.

Also how could I put it in the rear O2 sensor bung I have a o/r h but i dont have a tuner and run MILs so im not sure if its possible.

You can splice the signal wire off the drivers side o2 into the passenger side o2, then just zip tie the driver side o2 up to the bracket above the midpipe. You use the driver side o2 because it will tend to run leaner on that side due to hot spots on that head.

urban96 · May 22, 2006

jstreet0204 said:
You can splice the signal wire off the drivers side o2 into the passenger side o2, then just zip tie the driver side o2 up to the bracket above the midpipe. You use the driver side o2 because it will tend to run leaner on that side due to hot spots on that head.

i thought it was a big no-no to cut into the o2 wires? which wire is the sender wire?

Dope 97GT · May 22, 2006

Urban I called adam in webster today and got very good info from him I should get my car to him this week so he can tune it up

Thanks a lot

jstreet0204 · May 23, 2006

urban96 said:
i thought it was a big no-no to cut into the o2 wires? which wire is the sender wire?

No, its no big deal. The black wire is the signal wire.

urban96 · May 23, 2006

Dope 97GT said:
Urban I called adam in webster today and got very good info from him I should get my car to him this week so he can tune it up

Thanks a lot

he'll take good care of ya

i just bought a LM-1 wideband too that i need to get installed so i can mess around more with my 2002

Dope 97GT · May 23, 2006

does anyone have a clue on what to do on first calibration with these things. It says something about free air test does that mean turn it on with it in your hand in the open air because it the directions talk about it getting up to temp but I dont know how that can happen with it not in the exhaust.

Also do you need to use the led and switch that it says for calibration because the directions say that is optional.

If anyone has installed one of these before please help me out.

BennyBlown2v · May 23, 2006

The "warming up" is just the sensor "booting" like a computer booting up sorta-kinda. Basically it just means when the gauge stops reading full lean on start up (I think like 23/24 points something like that) then its "warmed up". The free-air calibration isn't neccesary if you bought your stuff from Dynotunenitrous.com it comes precalibrated - but it is a good idea to recalibrate every few weeks/months. All you do is turn the cars "power" on while the sensor is removed from the exhaust bung (in free ambient air), then follow the series of button pushes/LED readout from the button and LED you wire into the negative lead from the LC-1.

Dope 97GT · May 23, 2006

BennyDaBall said:
The "warming up" is just the sensor "booting" like a computer booting up sorta-kinda. Basically it just means when the gauge stops reading full lean on start up (I think like 23/24 points something like that) then its "warmed up". The free-air calibration isn't neccesary if you bought your stuff from Dynotunenitrous.com it comes precalibrated - but it is a good idea to recalibrate every few weeks/months. All you do is turn the cars "power" on while the sensor is removed from the exhaust bung (in free ambient air), then follow the series of button pushes/LED readout from the button and LED you wire into the negative lead from the LC-1.

So i can just wire it up and put the O2 sensor in and it will work. I bought from dynotune like you suggested a couple weeks back. This kit.http://www.dynotunenitrous.com/store/scripts/prodView.asp?idproduct=151

Also where do you have your bung or did you put it in the rear O2s im thinking of getting it welded in like 6" behind the front drivers side O2 in the midpipe because I dont have a tuner and am using MILs to shut off the rear O2s.

Give Me TP · May 23, 2006

here's my bunghole:

I use the Innovate Motorsports LM-1 datalogger along with a guage pod-mounted XD-1 guage. As far as calibrating the sensor in open air, during the warm-up procedure it does actually become hot, due to the heater element incorporated in O2 sensors (including your stock ones). Just let it dangle (heh-heh...heh...heh-heh-heh) while your calibrating the system. Mine holds it's calibration very well, as I haven't had to re-calibrate in over a year since installing the system semi-permanently in my vehicle.

BennyBlown2v · May 23, 2006

I'm running an offroad mid-pipe, so I just put it in one of the un-used rear sensor bungs, then I tucked the LC-1 unit itself up by the transmission cross member and ran the cables through the rubber shifter dust guard.

Dope 97GT · May 23, 2006

Yeah ill just get the bung welded in because I have a slight exhaust leak at the end of the midpipe on the passenger side because i bottomed out and it bent the phlange that hooks up to the catback

But thanks you guys for all the info ill let you know when i get it hooked up

Thanks
Nick

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